First of all ive been thru all the search,s. As stated in ***le its a uni-body car,4 door.Floor is realy bad,my Q is being a uni-body car would it be best to tie the frame together first before cutting out old floor?. Doors shut /fit realy good,im worried about cutting out rust and making it weaker than it is and repair would be done with doors open.Im going for a 1 shot repair and i dont like to be surprized when i close the door after repair.Any help i thank you in advance........................YG ( Also learned alot from my search.s and short cuts,thanks)
I just finished doing this on our '64 AWB car. Just do one side at a time or one corner at a time would be even better. Drill holes where the new pans meet the sub frame and do some good rosette welds to tie it in like the factory did with their spot welds. I think sub frame connectors are always a good idea on these Mopars and if you can tie them into the floors as well even better. It's probably not really necessary if you're not running a big block or doing any racing though.
auto metal direct probably has the correct replacement pieces you need. You can do a search on Mopar Muscule mag and find several articles on doing this.
Check out Hakerbilt's build, back in black. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=545292 He just finished his floors and you might find it helpfull.
Thanks guys for the reply,s.I have a sheet 4x10 of 18 ga,the factory floor is 19 ga.I have bought replacement panels before for Dodge trucks and im sick of making them fit ,so im starting from scratch.I have the tools, and im good at making patterns,and molds so this wont be hard, just measure twice and cut once and i have faith in my self to do this.Thanks for the link on Hakerbilt build,i like pics.haha. Im taking pics so if it turns out good youll see it ,if bad thats what carpet,s for right ?Also this is a driver that i got and didnt know the floor was this bad,i knew some repairs were to made but when you buy a car out of state and unseen,this happens.So im ****ing it up and doing something other than complaning.My fault so im dealing with it.Im open to all help.KEEP EM COMMING........Thanks......................YG
Thanks for the info and pic,looks great !!!.Im going to try to come as close as i can to this .Your floor is very close to mine,only diff is the p*** side toward firewall,past the seam has a extra bulge for trans ? .i dont know if ive seen that before,cant remember if i have but the polara doesnt have that............................YG
I did subframe connectors as the very first step on my rescue. Due to the amount of rust in the vehicle I extended the connectors right back thru the rear rails so they could actually weld to the new spring boxes and also extended them forward to p*** thru the torsion bar crossmember (which I knew I would be replacing) and on into the front frame rails. That stiffened the car considerably. Just welding them to the end of the torsion bar crossmember and the front of the rear rails, while still stronger than stock, won't give you the same level of beam strength as the sheet metal factory rails will flex near the joints. Even in my rust bucket I'm very impressed with the simplicity and strength of the Mopar design. Connectors are the icing on the cake! One thing to note...the front and rear rails are not aligned and the connectors will need a slight notch and reweld at both ends for alignment IF your going to p*** them on thru the original rails for maximum strength.
Thanks for the info Bill. That was my first line of attack after getting the car level on the lift.Cking doors and see if any thing changes,might be over kill but im doing this once.What kind of seam sealer did you use ??? The job you did is first cl***,if i come in the ball park,shooting for the mound first.Does this sound like a first way to start????Have not cut any metal out yet,doors fit great.ANY help i thank you in advance.............................YG
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