Well i decided to go through the y block in my 60 f100. It seems to have a leak everywhere and full of gunk. I had the carb rebuilt and is still having a vac*** problem. Im wanting to get rid of the side road draft tube and dont want to have breathers on the valve covers since im going to be running finned covers. So i bought a pcv system. So im going to be replacing all of the seals since its all apart, I noticed i have to pull the heads to take off the valley pan, is that true? If I have to shouldnt i just replace the head gaskets aswell?
Good luck man, im not a y block guy so I cant help you with your question. I just re gasketed my FE in my f100. But then I replaced the cam because I was in there. Hope ur project doesnt snow ball.
If you take the heads off be sure to keep track of the order and location of the bolts. I've heard they are different lengths and will not seat the gasket if you get then out of order.
My valley pan was really hard to put back in with both heads on. What pcv system did you buy? I put one in the valley pan where the road draft was.
Mr.havad, a guy off of the y block site set me up with a kit. Im running the valley pan with the rear road draft tube but removing the tube and putting a pvv and grommet in there. Then connecting that to the carb spacer plate. Blocking off the road draft tube on the side of the block. I didnt want anything showing. I want everything clean.
Valley pan should come off without having to remove the heads. It can be a ***** if everythings real dirty.
Yes everything is filthy. I will be blasting the intake and valve covers today. How should I clean the rest of the motor? And what should I use?
The heads don't need to come off. The valley pan comes off quicker than it goes back on. The valley pan baffle makes it challenging. To put it back on I slid the left side under the left head and then on the right side used two putty knives. With a touch of oil on the knives I placed them in between the two cut outs that run along the returns. Apllied equal pressure as best I could while keeping the gasket attached and even with No. 2 Form-A Gasket Sealant by Permatex. Once it was down I used some proding dental tools to even up the gasket all the way around. Cleaning - when the pan was off I used Super Clean from Wal Mart - I use Simple Green too but Super Clean works faster. I vac***ed out the valley section and laid down some clean cotton shirts - insurance. I cut a piece of acrylic the same dimension as the pan and laid down masking tape. Cardboard should work too. This shoud provide protection while cleaing the block surfaces and distributor. If youre going to take out the distributor, of course there's a different approach. I used wire toothbrushes and different welding tip wirebrushes to attack the mess. I didn't do heavy cleaning on the valves and surrounding areas - just removed debris. I let 4 to 5 oil changes including Marvel Mystery oil do the trick. Looking down the filler tube tells me it did a pretty darn good job.
My neighbor has a 1953 Canadian Mercury F-100 and it has a Y block 256 Cu. In V-8 in it. It is a gem. And with the Canadian system operated by Ford it has electric door locks. I don't remember any US '53 F-100's with the OH V-8 or the door locks. The engine you have comes from a strong family of Ford V-8 engines. But finding parts can be a chore. Good luck on this project. Normbc9
Ok cool thanks guys. Im cleaning all the dirt and grime off of the intake,valve covers,linkages etc. Then the neighbor at work is going to let me use his sand blaster.
56 ford custom, I ran a 292 in a 54 f100 resto years ago. Google, John Mummert Y-block, his site was a wealth of information/parts. Also check out Y-blocks forever. A lot of good info there as well. I did not run a PVC system as I was staying stock but I do remember a good write up about how to do it floating around on the web. Some Y-blocks were prone to oil starvation to the valve train and having a hot spot that caused head gaskets to blow. One of the sites listed part numbers for the prime castings #s to look for and machine shop tips to correct this. I took advantage of the machining tips and ended up with a bullet proof engine. Wish I would have never sold it..... have fun, Y-blocks are cool..... Mike
56 ford custom, I just got done with my 272. The valley cover is hard to remove and install, BUT you do not have to remove the heads. I read up on the engine before I started. I did not rebuilt it ...thats another story.... I removed the rockers, cleaned out the oil holes in the heads with pipe cleaners and installed a sealed high lift rocker kit. I cleaned the oil pickup tube and screen and shimmed the oil pump spring. I did not replace the bearings as they looked new but were marked '62. I blocked off the vent hole in the left side of the block and ran an extended road draft tube / hose to the rear of the cab. I had to replace the harmonic balancer as the outer ring had moved. I used a speedy sleeve on it as there was a deep seal groove. I replaced the cam with a NOS reground 312 supercharger cam.
Here are some old photos of Ford Y block performance engines the factory turned out. Ford had a big ***embly plant in Pico Rivera and they had a Ford racing Office in the plant too. We'd drop by for a peek on occasion. Boy the work they were doing was really looking ahead. The late Ford FE engine series came about as the result of a lot of work the Performance Engineering staff did at the Southern California Drag strips. I saw on Y block 341 (out of a Lincoln) with an Algon Fuel Injection and for that time that was a big step to developing real horsepower. Later I saw a Y block F-800 362 cubic inch engine with a Roots blower on it. The blower was fueled by an injection system too. Connie Kalitta used to hang around with those guys when he wasn't flying one of his air freight ships.
Thanks for all the info guys. It helped alot! The 292 in my 60 f100 runs but has leaks all over and oil is caked everywhere. So im just going to replace all the gaskets. I was told to run diesel oil to brake down all the gunk and what not in the motor. How long shoud i wait to change it? After that do i switch back to regular straight weight oil? Alsoshould i just replace the head gaskets too? It seemed to run fine just had some smoke come out of the rad draft tube and breather. Was a bit annoying at a red light. It would run fine for a few minutes then at idle it would die. So i had the carb completely rebuilt. So i was thinking must have had an intake leak.
I just hope that replacing all the seals and setting up the pcv system will clear up the issues its having.
Well I have the intake off of the motor and the rear road draft tube has been cut and pinched closed. The road draft tube on the side of the block has been capped off and no other way for this motor to vent. Other then a whole in the valve cover where I thimk a hose went to the air cleaner. I dont have a clue what the previous owner was thimking. Or if he was thinking at all. Hope this clears the problems up.
A look at what I started with and something that looks close to whats going on today. I got mixed opinions on running diesel fuel, kerosene, or flush-it-out-in-a-can to clean it out. There were a couple of threads that said it would break down the bigger stuff to smaller stuff which would go through the pickup screen. Stirring up a lot of **** will do more harm than good. Additionally, it's not good to put more polish on your cylinder walls because at this point one would ***ume there is a bit of blow by. Anyway, I took care of the gaskets, except the heads and the biggest change happened when I took it over to a closed system - PCV. Ran several oil changes with non detergent 15W 40 Rotella T from Wal Mart and a little bit of Marvel; trying out the Lucas separately too. During that period of flushing I noticed the Marvel on board made the engine start better, idle better and did better on gas. Nothing against Lucas additives. Rotella T and Marvel on this 292 works good. Thanks for the pics Norm.
Thanks for all the info tacho. Sounds just like my motor and the pic on the left looks like it....well not as bad haha.
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