I did another one today, and I remembered to take pics this time. I tried to get this engine apart more than 10 years ago, and there were 3 pistons I could not get to move. So I gave up on it and just stored it ( like most good hoarders do...) Thinking " I'll get to that someday" Today was that day...
Makes you wonder how an engine even seizes up when you leave it out uncovered in the rain I'm not doubting the effectiveness of the universal solvent, it just seems counter intuitive to unseizing and engine that has been out in the rain.
il hafta try that one. a mate of mine who restores old stationary engines uses milk, ive never personally used it but he swears by it...
I wonder if alkyhol mixed with H20 will make make it work faster???... Or how about windshield washer solvent... The good strong stuff??? That's got alkyhol in it...
Never heard of this but it makes sense. I wonder if a little detergent would help to break down the surface tension and penetrate quicker. Nice tip. Pete
if water works, then water with a small amount of dish soap will work better, makes it "lighter", thinner and can seep into more places than an unmolested drop o' water.
Yes, it is. D9 casting # so that makes it the taller deck ( slightly higer compression on the first year or so ), but maybe not cast as thin as the latemodel roller versions. I'm hoping it will clean up at .030, because I have a set of forged TRW's I want to use in it.
Cool! I just got done building one not long ago for a o/t car.. It has a set of "twisted wedge" heads from Trick-Flow, a .542 roller, a Vic Jr. intake and a BG "Gold Claw" carb. H.P. in the 460 range..
I prefer Crystal Geyser. You get 35 bottles to the case as opposed to 24 in most others. It's tastes great too. . . But only if you drink it before soaking your engine.
An engine that is locked up because it's been out in the rain will most likely not be locked up if it's kept wet. As it gets more and more rust and it's allowed to dry up, then it will stick it tight...until it's wet again.