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?? on how to paint a spring??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by revkev6, May 3, 2011.

  1. revkev6
    Joined: Jun 13, 2006
    Posts: 3,350

    revkev6
    Member
    from ma

    I've got an original 37-40 rear spring for my 32 that is in great shape. it's still got the original tin wrapping on it and I would REALLY like to keep it. Any of you guys have any luck on painting a spring without dis***embling it?? I would like to just clean this ****er up and throw a coat of paint on it. What have you done and how does it hold up??

    I've actually been thinking of doing the spring two-tone. maybe a hammertone type finish on the tin and black for the leaves....
     
  2. Willy301
    Joined: Nov 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,426

    Willy301
    Member

    consider dis***embly een if only to put a small amount of grease between the leaves to eliminate squeaking...
     
  3. revkev6
    Joined: Jun 13, 2006
    Posts: 3,350

    revkev6
    Member
    from ma


    that's what I've done in the past, but I want to keep the tin on this spring. :confused:
     
  4. Willy301
    Joined: Nov 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,426

    Willy301
    Member

    just tape it off and spray, I have sprayed new springs with no trouble, they just build a rust line between the leaves as they start to work, especially if the springs are older or been out in the weather.
     
  5. bluemoose
    Joined: Dec 21, 2008
    Posts: 305

    bluemoose
    Member

    I've always wondered if painting it with a plactic paint would work. The paint is designed to flex and move, at molecular levels, with the plastic without cracking and flacking off.

    Any spings I've painted, even with a grease coating, has tended to eventually come off and rust.
     
  6. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,756

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    I've rattle canned an *** load over the years. Like everything else your prep will determine the final look. I've never been one to use mirrors at the shows to show a mirror finish frame so a clean rattle can job looks just fine for me. If you're going for the "Riddler" this may seem crude. If you get it too perfect under there you will end up not driving it due to the work required to clean it.

    Over restored cars ****.:D Drive the sum*****!
     
  7. revkev6
    Joined: Jun 13, 2006
    Posts: 3,350

    revkev6
    Member
    from ma


    this is exactly my theory on this car! i've got a 28 roadster that I've literally spent more hours polishing the UNDERSIDE than I have driving it! that will not happen with this car, but I don't want the paint to come off in huge flakes after the first bump I hit either. It's original so it has 70 years of grime between the leaves. I will clean it the best I can but am wondering what effect it will have on the paint??
     
  8. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,137

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    No matter what paint or method you use, springs will wear between and rust. Unless you never drive the car. My new front axle and springs came painted, and I dis***embled and painted again. Plastic rub points between the springs, and it'a already rusting after 6 months. That's just the way it goes.
     
  9. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,756

    tommy
    Member Emeritus


    Wire brush it for the flaky stuff, wash it down with lacquer thinner and hit it with Krylon semi-flat rattle can black. It will look very clean and stay that way for years. If some rust should start to appear years from now a quick touch up will take care of it. I keep 2 cans in stock at all times. The best damn paint in the world...for me.:D
     

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