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390 intake gaskets

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by pie pie, May 1, 2011.

  1. pie pie
    Joined: Jun 29, 2008
    Posts: 673

    pie pie
    Member
    from missouri

    Ordering a new performer rpm intake so wanting to know what some good intake gaskets are?
     
  2. FrozenMerc
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 3,412

    FrozenMerc
    Member

    For a standard street build, I have always been a fan of Fel-Pro gaskets. Of course with an FE, you might as well get valve cover gaskets too since you will have to pull the valve covers, rockers, and push rods to change that intake. Oh, and that stock cast iron unit your replacing weighs better than 80 lbs (without the carb), so eat a big bowl of corn flakes before you attempt to lift that ****er off.

    Good Luck.
     
  3. Alienbaby17
    Joined: Sep 13, 2005
    Posts: 942

    Alienbaby17
    Member

    I agree with my fellow Minnesotan. I put that same intake on my 390. I ran the Fel-pro gaskets, no problems.
     
  4. pie pie
    Joined: Jun 29, 2008
    Posts: 673

    pie pie
    Member
    from missouri

    Just the standard feloro replacement or print o seals?
     
  5. pie pie
    Joined: Jun 29, 2008
    Posts: 673

    pie pie
    Member
    from missouri

    I'm lucky I am replacing a aluminum intake.
     
  6. frankenfords
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 278

    frankenfords
    Member
    from SoCal

    Stay away from the Print-O-Leaks on an FE! The best on the market right now are the Fel-Pro steel reinforced models. The print-o-seals will squirm and leak.
     
  7. pie pie
    Joined: Jun 29, 2008
    Posts: 673

    pie pie
    Member
    from missouri

    Do you know a part number?
     
  8. frankenfords
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 278

    frankenfords
    Member
    from SoCal

    Fel-Pro 1247S3 for Medium Riser style heads (most 66-newer heads, except C6AE-R and CJ)

    Fel-Pro 1246S3 for Low Riser style heads (most 65-older heads, including C6AE-R and CJ)
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2011
  9. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,339

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    And I usually just use RTV for the end seals...
     
  10. frankenfords
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 278

    frankenfords
    Member
    from SoCal

    Yes! Very good point. Toss out the cork end seals, then run a thick bead of RTV on either end. Let the RTV skin over before dropping the manifold in place, and try to drop the manifold straight down.

    You will also need to replace the valve cover gaslets, and pay close attention to the point where the intake meets the head on the valve cover rail. If any gasket is sticking up here, trim it flush. And if there is a significant 'step' here, double gasketing the valve cover may help.
     
  11. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,227

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from BHC AZ

    I have a slightly different process for my FE intakes. Mr Gasket intake gaskets with the cork ends. I've had silicone only push out with sustained high rpm use in my boats. A light skim of Ultra Gray around the coolant ports on the intake side, and elephant snot on the bottoms of the cork ends (let it start to kick so the end doesn't move on you). Run a small bead of Ultra Gray across where the end tabs enter the gaskets just before you lower the intake down.
    Never had a leaker this way.....
     
  12. pie pie
    Joined: Jun 29, 2008
    Posts: 673

    pie pie
    Member
    from missouri

    I guess I may have to go through summit because I could not the them through my work and an aftermarket supplier didn't have them either. Are the standard stock replacement felpros worth getting or should I just go with the Edelbrock ones they recommend?
     
  13. johnnie
    Joined: Jan 7, 2009
    Posts: 493

    johnnie
    Member
    from indiana

    Couple tips for ya. Check your bolt sizes, new manifold may need some different ones. Check the "china wall" for an alignment pin, ya might have to remove it for the new intake. When ya got the manifold set down, put all the bolts in and use the dizzy to align it before ya tighten it up.
     
  14. pie pie
    Joined: Jun 29, 2008
    Posts: 673

    pie pie
    Member
    from missouri

    Ok I will check out new arps the ones in there now are 3 different sizes. Thanks
     
  15. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,339

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Nothing wrong with running the cork seals, but you probably need more crankcase ventilation. Just running the breather on the intake manifold?
     
  16. pie pie
    Joined: Jun 29, 2008
    Posts: 673

    pie pie
    Member
    from missouri

    None on the manifold. Has a PVC on valve cover and breather fill cap. Aluminum intake
     
  17. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,339

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Pie pie, I was refering to mr T body blowing the RTV out of the ends. He probably needs more breathers, just a guess. I run a vac-u-pan from both valve covers into the collecters on mine, have never blown the rtv out.
     
  18. RustyNCA
    Joined: Feb 18, 2009
    Posts: 414

    RustyNCA
    Member

    Sounds like you have what I have on my 58 TBird. I am running the felpro gaskets, threw the cork in the trash and used a tube of RightStuff on the ends and a very small amount around the water jackets.

    This is with a performer intake, pvc on valve cover and breather cap on opposite valve cover/ I don't have a fill tube.

    That intake has been on the car for at least 4 maybe 5 years and I have had no issues. But I think the rightstuff is key, that stuff is great.

    I wouldn't worry about building the kind of crankcase pressure in your car, that a boat motor does.

    Cheers
    RustyNCA
     
  19. pie pie
    Joined: Jun 29, 2008
    Posts: 673

    pie pie
    Member
    from missouri

     

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