No, in fact, I deleted the post myself, and sent the poster in question a pm , because I didnt want to stink up the thread with a bunch of drama and an ongoing pissing match. Clear enough? Oh yea, and since thats clearly not good enough for you, I have built 3 clevelands, one was std. bore, and one was thin on the major thrust side, so thats 50%. You know, you try to take the high road, and where does it get you.
I have worked in speed shops and worked on engines from Sunbeam Imp to 429 BOSS and boat engines up to Rolls Royce Griffin Most of my customers have had Chevrolet engines 350's to be specific and I have made several pump gas 500 hp small blocks NONE of them were cheap NONE of the them were reliable. Of the Caddi engines again IMO not a good engine I have had oil pressure problems on every one including my daughter's car's (she drives a Hearse) currently on third engine. 472,500 CI Caddi engines over heated loose oil pump prime and if you don't know that it will kill the engine almost every time. I agree with the point cubic inches is hard to beat. For myself I use and am using a Ford 460 from a mid seventys truck a .060 set of pistons and two sets of rods from a 240 six or early 300 six massagged with beam ground shot preaned and nitrated with 351 W football rod bolts and a set of custom made pistons from Ross or TRW because of the 3/8ths offset reground crank winds up at 540 CID mild cam stock heads 510 bhp 640 ft of torgue on the dyno and will turn about 5k safely. Also Not to trow gas on the fire but when you build a Condition Hopeless Entire Vehicle Relies On Left Over Technology you end up with just another car with just another Chevy engine in it. Sorry just my two cents
it was 3 clevelands- 1 was std. bore,, and 1 was thin.. so that equals 50%..... I'm still tring to figure that one....but if its logical enough to make such a strong argument,, more power to ya --- more power,, get it ?? power? as in HP?
Well, the first one was left at std. bore, so we didnt sonic test it. Of the two that were actually tested, one was "iffy" at .030 over, there were areas down to around .080 on the major thrust side on two holes. So of the blocks we actually tested, one was good, and one was marginal, hence the 50%. As far as the size of the sample, fair enough. I dealt with three blocks. The one that was left at std. bore was a low mileage unit (less than 30,000 miles on it since new) that was the original block for the car it came out of, there was neglible bore wear with virtually no taper, and I was putting forgings in it, so we elected to simply hone it and put it together. Of the other two, we sonic tested both of them, one had no problems, the other was as previously described. So, of two 351C blocks I have PERSONALLY had sonic tested, one was shaky. When I talk about things on threads on here, I try to stick to things I have experienced first hand, or have at least witnessed. If I havent witnessed it, it at least has to be first-hand information from someone I know WELL and have confidence in. Now, moving on to the .080 wall thickness. I have also run an 390 FE bored to 4.13 with a 428 crank in it, and THAT block sonic tested in the .080 range in one hole, and that block eventually DID crack the cylinder wall in that hole, after running and being raced for a couple years. After it cracked, I knocked the area around the crack out with a hammer, and measured the thickness, and in small pockets it was actually less than .080.
Torque monsters like the stock bottom 455 buicks with a good set of heads sure adjusts your position in the seat without emptying the bank....that is until you factor in the fuel consumption.
I agree with the guys saying big block being the cheapest. No add on for cubes. You could get a small block into the 350-375 maybe even 400, but it'll cost ya. I hate to say it, but the cheapest is probably a SBC stroker. A SBF stroker would be my choice, but never match the cost of Chevy. I make the reply with "all motor" in mind. JMO. Red.
LOL! Yeah, didn't think of that. But you would be most correct. To reach the 500 hp figure you're gonna have to cough it up somewhere. Especially nowadays. Red.
LQ9 out of a 2000+ Chevy truckSVU 800-1100$, and the carb conversion kit for it w/a head/cam swap . Look around for truck wrecking lots for the best deals on the motors as any place that knows even has ever thought of doing a retrofit with one of these is going to charge you more. (ie most online vendors) It's a 6.0L (408) motor, or if you get an LQ4 it has less compression so it can handle a little boost. If you search google you find tons of threads / articles in magazines on them. It's cheaper to do the FI retrofit but it's not really a hamb thing, and alot of work if you haven't done it before. oh and with that said, without just going for a junker with a huge nitrous bottle. Outside of Ford & Chevy. The word "budget"+"performance" DO NOT! Go together. It's a bit of a bummer, but is the truth, any mopar/caddy/ect motor is going to cost you a premium just because the performance parts aren't a dime a dozen like with chevy/ford.
Take your pick,450 ish cube big block Chevy,Ford,or Mopar.All can make 500 reliable HP for reasonable money.All have easy to get parts for using a standard shift.The Big block Chevy is probably the least expensive for many of us.Maybe should have included Pontiac.
Okay, seriously, I think you could build a solid 300-350HP SBC for the money you're talking about, but it's going to take some scrounging and hard work. My brother in laws '70 Chevelle has a 350, .030 over, (the rest of the specs I'm not sure about). That car runs a mild stall converter, stock rear end gears, TH350 trans, and it's SCARY FAST for a street car with no other mods to it. That engine in a lightweight rod? It would be uncontrollable. What the Hell do you need 500HP for on the street? Honestly, spend more time working on tuning a milder motor and you'll get the same results streetlight to streetlight. Does anyone else remember that Plymouth drag car in the '80's that ran a slant six in the 8 second range? The motor wasn't some unobtanium big horse monster, just a well tuned and thought out setup that made a lot of buyers (not "builders") look like fools.
I don't have a dyno sheet, but I'd be happy to pin your ass to the seat in my 36. FYI, a '68 472 is 375, stock. Add the intake, cam, and exhaust, and it's gotta be close enough to count. The parts and build advice for mine came from MTS. According to them, with the stock intake and exhaust (which I'm running), mine should be 400-425. If I had room for the extra height of the intake and steering clearance for headers, the combo shoud be 500.
eh if you just want to hit 11.90s.. .it's all about suspension/cars weight. Motor is just a part of it. totally ot. .but right now I have basically a stock LT1 in my '69. and it runs low 12s on the motor. I also have a cheater kit on it as well. I'm sure that motor doesn't make even 300hp at the wheels, but with the right suspension, and a good convert you can easily hit those times. You can pick up complete drop in LT1's with trans for under 1000$. I also get 20+ MPH w/over drive and 4.11s) and typically drive it around 1000 miles round trip from where I live down to SD to race for the weekend.
Small block Chevy, spend some $ on a good forged rotating assembly, built it to the hilt. Then put a big shot of nitrous on it. An easy 300 horse motor ready to go on pump gas on the street, with the bottle for when you want things to get interesting.
this is pretty close to the benchmarks i set... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chev...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Turbos will do the job for you. I have a 4.3L '05 Sonoma currently running 13.5 lbs of boost. That is approx 200 hp above the stock 225 hp. It will be increased to 20 lbs which will give me about 300 total additional ponies. I currently run 104.75 mph in the 1/4 mile in 12.8 sec. In addition, I'm running a 3,000 rpm stall converter, shift kit, burning E-85 and larger injectors. I've beaten quite a few Mustangs and Camaros. You'll love a turbo.
I have to ask......why are so many saying do a Caddy? If your going with an old style BB then an Olds 455 makes way more sense IMO. More plentiful, more aftermarket performance parts. My pump gas build puts out ~ 450 horse at 5000 rpm BUT....550 ft lbs torque at 2500! Floor it and hang on cause your going sideways.....
1) First off, can these basic, stock blocks even take 500HP on a regular basis? i would define "regular basis" as indefinitely. Not 50 runs and there's cracks showing up. 2) Since you said SBC, no power adders, under 10:5 compression and streetable, AND under $3000 grand, then get 2 goodwrench 350 crates and spline them together at the flexplate and harmonic balancer. Boom----500HP for a little under 3K. You didn't say you couldn't use 2 SBCs, so this is still within the rules and still meets all the requirements. You'll probably have to extend your wheelbase, but hey think of all the attention you'll get.
That's pretty much what I just had built, only I'm using Eldebrock rpm heads and a 545 lift solid flat tappett. I bought the heads right off a dyno with comp cams full roller rockers for 700 bucks. It cost me 2400 for disassembly of the old 355 short block, all machine work and parts to complete assembled 388, so 3100 total minus intake.
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