In put a new motor in my 55 chevy, actually a two year project, I have a new aftermarket replica ignition switch I bought from Danchuk. The motor will turn over with the switch but not start, it will try to start if I let a little pressure of the start function to the on position. The car fires right off using a remote switch from selonoid to +. Does this make sense?
Here's two links that may help you...sounds like something is wrong with the wiring: http://www.trifive.com/garage/56 Chevy ***embly Manual/12-6.gif http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16604
Sounds like the distributor / coil isn't getting power when the switch is in the crank (start) position.
Looks like the ignition signal is disappearing when you crank. Is the switch a rotary type or linear (adjustable in its position)? Some Holdens in Australia had a linear switch on the column, and it could be adjusted up or down the column to match the key barrels functions
the switch is a typical rotary, off, on, start. Remember the car will start with the key at the on posistion and using a remote starter
That's what 3onthetree was saying and what I meant when I said there was something wrong with the switch wiring...
Sounds like a break in the resistor byp*** wiring. The one that gives a full 12v when cranking. That is if you are running a stock type points ignition.
I had the same problem with my 29 Ford Pk Up, running a 2001 AMC 4 Banger. A friend suggested using a relay, (fog light type) and have the key turn on the relay. The power for the relay is straight from the battery to the coil. It now starts in 2 seconds, and before I would look for a hill to park on and pop the clutch. I did not have enough power to feed to electronic ign, and run the starter motor also. Iceman
I had this problem. Turned out I needed to get juice to the coil from a different terminal off the column. Mid 60's column.You are losing the juice in the start position and when u let go the key it will fire and get a couple fires but not enough momentum to keep running. Take the heavey wire off the starter and turn the key to start and put a meter on the coil to be sure. What column r u using, switch?
There are two small terminals on the starter solinoid. one activates the starter solinoid to start the motor cranking. the other terminal sends 12V to the coil direct /byp***ing the coil resistor . when you release the start function the 12V is provided by the ign switch through the coil resistor. It does not matter the ign sys your useing you do not have 12V to the ign sys whil cranking. fix that problem and your on the road.
The "R" terminal on the starter provides the ignition power while cranking on a older style Chev starter. If your starter solenoid is late model it may not have the "R" terminal and you will need to add a relay for ignition power when cranking since your OEM style ignition switch apparently does not put power to the ignition while cranking.
You do have a byp*** wire running from solenoid to the + side of the coil The engine will probably fire now if you crank it over and then let off the key so the ignition is on. If it is a later solenoid that doesn't have that post you could make a byp*** by installing a push ****on so that you could manually byp*** the resistor. You would have to have it go to a hot all the time post and then have the other wire go to the + post on the coil. put it hidden under the dash in easy reach and then push the ****on when you turn the key to crank the engine. Safety or anti theft thing too as if you leave the key in it someone most likely won't be able to jump in and hit the key and drive off.
the column is IDIDit, the starter is a three post, I am using the inner most terminal(neareswt engine) for ign start terminal. I am not using the other small terminal on the starter. The distributor is a ready to run distributor, orange to coil, red to 12V, black to ground.
Recheck your wiring at the switch. If you cannot find a problem it may very well be the switch. American Auto Wire has a better quality switch than the Damjunk one. IMHO
Thanks, I was not getting power to the coil from the crank position. I jumped a lead from bat on coil to key on. All is good. Thanks for all the help, it really helped. HAMB rules, the rest drool.
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