1931 Ford sport coupe / roadster build thread

What I started off with was an idea on building a Model A roadster using the light weight early '60 Buick 215 V8 motor, 4 speed, and a quick change. I love roadsters, but felt that the model A roadsters where too short and too cramped for my taste (I am 6'1"). There is a 2 inch difference in height between a '32 and a '31, so I thought why not just add the 2 inches and put it on a deuce frame?

So I started out finding a sport coupe rear clip. The reason I picked that is the upper deck lid panel is shorter, so it gives the leg room of a coupe, but the look of a roadster.

 

The next step was to locate a '31 roadster cowl and roadster doors and integrate the pieces together. I wanted the roadster to sit a little bit channeled on the '32 frame kind of like a shoe box lid on a shoe box.

 

Next step was to put the frame together using ASC rails and front cross member, and then using stock model A rear cross members. The X member is off of a 36 ford, cut down to fit.

 

The cowl was fitted to the frame, and I made an educated guess as to where it would eventually bolt. I worked from the front back, take the measurements from the 215 motor with a mechanical fan, and not having to modify the firewall. The cowl frame was lengthened 2 inches and the cowl patches where welded at a slight angle to enhance the 32 frame lines.

 

In the mean time I located a 215 Buick motor, but later found out that the 4.6 Range Rover long block it the same engine. All the early Buick stuff will bolt to it, and it has better heads and more cubes. Got the adaptor bell housing from D&D as well as a intake. Its a powerful fuel efficient motor all aluminum that weighs in at 320 pounds.

 

Next was to install a '39 ford dash and cut the fuel tank out of the cowl. I left the internal baffles of the tank in as they lend a great spot to mount a fuse panel. I got a friend to roll me a new glove box door skin to eliminate the clock hole, and I plan to use the factory Ford gauges.

 

Next step was to lengthen the doors to match the cowl. I had the frame up on saw horses so it was easy to get the bottoms to match very precisely. The door interior has some beads rolled in them, so I just continued the bead straight down to meet the lower bead to look something like a devil's fork. I was not too concerned about the look as it will be covered by the door panel. I had the raggedy rear clip propped up on the frame with welded on angle and pieces of wood for mock up.

 

You've carved out quite a project for yourself. Be sure to keep us posted on any progress.

Frank

 

I bought the beautifully made rear subrails from a fellow HAMBer Eric at Riley Automotive in Colorado. They make an excellent piece and it really facilitated the build. I had the subrails clamped to the frame, and took the inner rear wheel panels and hammered the bottom bend flat so it would sit flush on the vertical part of the subrail. I tacked it all together to get a feel for how it was positioned on the frame.

 

In the meantime I found an original 32 grill shell and better 31 firewall at the Charlotte Auto Fair. The grill had the front teeth missing out of it, and the bottom sectioned out, but with a little work it was pieced back together.

 

Next came the rear axle. I had always wanted a V8 quickchange, but never could rationalize the price. But through some trading, and the help of my friend Dennis Frings, I was able to get one. It was a hunt for 1939 and 1940 rear axle ***emblies as it is had to find one that the axles are not all chewed up. After about 4 tries I finally found one that we could use. Dennis has the Winters V8 quick changes in stock, but it is far from being a bolt together affair. Much of the ***embly invoved adjusting tollerances on the parts to work together, and you really need to know what you are doing.

 

Excellent! I'll be watching this thread.

 

Here is just some of the process in the ***embly of the Winter's V8 rear center section. I also decided to use 1940 Lincoln front radius rods for my rear radius rods. They are super heavy, not that I am going to pound my beautiful and fragile aluminum quick change, but will certainly give years of reliable service.

 

I found a decklid that I thought was a deal but turned out to be a turd. So I peeled the skin off of it and ordered a new skin and had it louvered by a friend in Atlanta. I used a chevy door handle as the deck lid handle as it was a little larger and looked right. I am going to use it as a rumble seat, and mount the 1926 reproduction oval tank in the back a' la Vern Tardel.

 

Next came the rear clip. It was beat up pretty bad, so it took a lot of welding to make it look like something. The quarter panels on a Model A are quite flat, and a '32 curves with the frame. I pounded some curve into the quarters to match the frame, and will trim the bottom of the wheel wells when it sits where it supposed to.

Its funny about the doors. I would get them to fit perfectly and then work on the other side of the car. I would come back and they would be all crazy doing I don't know what. I finally gave up for the moment thinking that when I get the body off the frame and weld it from the bottom and can "set everything in cement".

 

I got tired of looking at the body on the saw horses and decided to but it on all four wheels. I had hours of discussion with my Iron Lords buddies to decide on just the right post war look as far as the wheels and tires. I settled on 750 16 and 550 16 firestones front and rear. Keep in mind that everything on this car is just tacked together, as I really am not sure how it will all pan out when the motor and transmission is added to the mix. I want to keep some flexibillty to avoid and "redos" later down stream.

 

I was concerned with the offset of the rear wheels, but later decided that it was ok as it sits. I used 4 inch ford wheels and 3.5 inch ford wheels on the front. The axle is an original Model A axle dropped 4 inches by a fellow HAMBer Okie Joe. He did an excellent job on the drop, and it does not look like a taffy pull.

So this is where I am as of today. I a waiting on the Range Rover motor to come back from the machine shop to start to fit everything together. The Rover did not need an overbore, and I am just going to do a basic rebuild with a "lumpy" cam. If you missed hearing one of the motors with a cam you will be surprised. They can be bad ***!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gVC2X-F88U

 

Here are some bits a pieces that I have left out.
Headlight perches - model A headlight crossbar cut down and bent
Shock brackets - Front F100, Rear '46 ford
Brakes; Front F100 drum, Rear Stock 40 ford
Windshield: Chopped stock model a
Rear push bar/bumper: F100 front axle turned upside down, drilled, & cut.
Steering - original Vega bax
Front spring - reproduction model a
Rear spring - T model

 

Nice!

 

Curt it looks so damn good man. I think it's going to be the coolest car around. Can't wait to see it in person!

 

a very good project , and choices of build material , really dig the aluminum v8 very cool , and the roadster body made up of different parts , came out excellant ,

 

Really cool! Those engines sound wicked too!! Man, you sure did get a lot done today

 

Very nice job!

 

Great progress! I didn't know that about the Land Rover engines! That is crazy!

 

I would like to say that I got this done in a day, but I am afraid it has been just about 1 year to get to where I am today. Once the motor get to me, I should be able to ****on everything up to the point where we can drive it. Shouldn't be too long. I was thinking to run about a 3.00 gear in the QC and drive it 120 mph on drum brakes

Still have to buy the radiator, wiring harness, fuel tank and brake pieces. Have a great Toyota mini van second row seat that fits the body like a glove. It has the back recline option and should look great rolled and pleated. It fits right under the upper deck lid panel.

 

Hard to beat a Model A on deuce rails... Most people lower the grille shell a couple inches... You raise the whole body!!! Nice build... Keep up the good work...

 

Thanks for the words of encouragment! Still waiting on my motor the machine shop, but it looks like only another few weeks and we will be finishing the frame up.

I have my buddy Damon reworking the crown on my 32 grill shell. They torched out the hole and brazed a wadded up piece of steel back in. A generous layer of bondo and PRESTO! THANKS DAMON!

 

Looks goood mate as does the Aussie board under your feet in your avatar Had a few of those myself growing up.

 

Lookin sharp Curt, keep up the good work!

 

Cool build! Any more up dates?