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3rd gen Camaro rear disc brake?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BinderRod, May 10, 2011.

  1. BinderRod
    Joined: Jul 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,737

    BinderRod
    Member

    I am having some problems with my rear disc brakes. This is the 4th year of running them. This year the pedal is almost to the floor and will not bleed out. I don't use the emergency brakes and was wondering if that might be part of the problem. I say that because I think that is what keeps the pads in the correct position for a good pedal.
    I installed a new 7" booster, bench blead the MC and used speed bleeders to bleed the brakes. After all that I still have no pedal.
    If you can shead some light it would be great. thanks Keith

    Here are the brakes

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Iceberg460
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 880

    Iceberg460
    Member

    Sorry, but I gotta ask, do you have the calipers on the right sides? Bleed screws should be on top. Seen this overlooked too many times....
     
  3. BinderRod
    Joined: Jul 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,737

    BinderRod
    Member

    Yep they are on the top
     
  4. Ricks57
    Joined: Feb 11, 2006
    Posts: 76

    Ricks57
    Member
    from San Diego

    Hi,
    I have second gen calipers on my 57 rear and I know they have a ratchet mechanism that adjusts the pads as they wear. Try cranking on the emergency brake mechanism a few times and see if the pads are moving.
    Rick
     
  5. drs47ford
    Joined: Sep 5, 2010
    Posts: 108

    drs47ford
    Member
    from Western NY

    I have GM rear discs on my current project. Haven't got to that point yet so I don't have any suggestions. BUT in my researching for parts I thought I read that with a disc/disc system you should use a 8" power booster and a master cylinder with a 1-1/8" bore. Anyone know if that's correct info? And could that have anything to do with BR's problem?
     
  6. 3rd gen cameros are the same as the second gen in that respect. They need adjusting from time to time.
     
  7. 42hotrod
    Joined: Nov 3, 2005
    Posts: 811

    42hotrod
    Member
    from S.E. Idaho

    These guys are right, you will need to crank on the e-brake...a lot. Once they get out of adjustment it takes a ton of pulls to get them to ratchet back into position. If you don't have them hooked up figure out some kind of a lever to hook on the arms at the caliper and you may need to go 40-50 levers on each caliper if they are that far out.

    When I used to wrench it was a common mistake on these calipers for home wrenchers to just adjust the ebrake cable when the e brake pulled all the way up and they still wouldn't work correctly. Typically I would de-adjust the ebrake cable, then sit in the car and pull on the handle for 10-15 minutes. Eventually they would get back to the correct adjustment and the ebrake handle would pull up less than half way.

    Long story short, if you do have E brake cables hooked up, make sure the levers on the caliper are returning to the stop when the brake is off or you will never get them to adjust.


    Scot
     
  8. Retrorod
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 2,034

    Retrorod
    Member

    I have them on the rear of my '35 sedan. They are supposed to self adjust when you use the park brake but I rarely use the park brake so about once a year (5,000 mi) I have to crawl under it and I manually work the arms a bunch of times to ratchet out that inboard pad...then everything is wonderful for another year. I guess if I would use the park brake once in a while I wouldn't have to do it manually.
     
  9. BinderRod
    Joined: Jul 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,737

    BinderRod
    Member

    Sounds like I need to tell the wife it would be good exercise for her by cranking the E brake arms. Thanks for the help. I wish I would have known this before I installed a new brake booster and cussed like a drunken sailor for the day.
     

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