Does anybody have the torque specs for one? Or maybe can point me in the right direction? I have to change the left axle seal in my sedan and can't find torque specs for the shaft bolts and such.
Nooo! Those suspension specs are for an X308 (98-03 V8 Sedan) that is a COMPLETELY different car than the ones with inboard rear discs. I don't have said specs handy but can get em for you Monday AM if nobody posts first. Check the books online at jag-lovers.org in the meantime, info for any of the following cars will work: E-Type S-Type 3.4 or 3.8 (NOT the 98-08 car!!) 420 420G Mk10 XJ-S Series 1, Series 2, Series 3 XJ Those all use the cl***ic IRS setup that hot rodders use. X-Type, Modern S-Type, XJ40, X300, XK8, X308, X350 cars use completely different suspension systems.
As you are doing a seal repair then you need to remove the hub. That means removing the lower control arm pin and the main nut on the drive shaft. Torque specs as follows: Lower control arm pin retaining nuts 95 ft/lb. Drive shaft to hub carrier 55 ft/lb.
Sorry I forgot to put that it's a 65 jag differential. Fredeuce what about the flange bolts(4) where the shaft bolts to the disc and the housing bolts(5)?
Not repairing the hub seal but the differential seal on the output shaft? If so, the torque spec as follows: 1) Driveshaft inner flange 55 ft/lb 2) Bearing retainer/caliper mount 50 ft/lb
Yes the seal right behind that inner flange. It started slinging gear lube a couple days ago so hopefully I caught it in time and it didn't saturate the brake pad too much. This is my first jag rearend so I'm a novice with it, I'm hoping to find a book on them but I'm not having much luck there.
I have a book, "The Complete Official Jaguar "E"", published by Robert Bentley, Inc in 1970. It's currently listed at $54.95 on their web site. There's extensive detail on the ***embly and alignment for the "E" series rear suspension and buried in the text is a torque value of 55 ft/lbs for the 4 mounting bolts for the rear disk brake rotors. I've spent an hour skimming the content and I don't find any torque values for the output shaft nuts. There are other rearend/differential ***embly torque settings included. There are other publications listed there as well. Hope this helps. http://www.bentleypublishers.com/jaguar/repair-information/comp-off-jag-e-series-1-2-work.html
Suggestion... While youe back there check them pads and discs REAL carefully. I'd be replacing them seals in pairs myself, and since changing them discs is gonna be a LOT easier with all that stuff loose, might not be a bad time to do it. Driveshaft bolts are 50-60 ft-lbs.
Anybody got any experience with, or ideas how to solve oil blowing out the filler tube on a jag IRS. My buddy is having some ongoing issues with this dilema?
By this I presume you mean the breather tube on the rear cover? Sounds like the centre is overfilled. Undo the filler plug on the rear cover and oil should be level with bottom of thread. It will trickle out once the plug has been removed. That's enough oil. I use an OEM vent and I've had no issues in over 5yrs of driving. Vent tube is vertical and screws into housing above filler plug. It's about 2" long. There should be a small flange on inside of rear cover to stop oil from the crown wheel being thrown up the vent tube.
Thanks I'll check it out. The pads are in great shape and are only a year old I just have to clean the one side up where they got grease on them. The seals are about the same age and one side is a jag seal however the PO could only get the one and found what he thought would be a suitable replacement but as it turns out is not the case.
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