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1951 ford COE project help.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by iwanaflattie, May 14, 2011.

  1. iwanaflattie
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 4,185

    iwanaflattie
    Member

    Hello my name is Seth.
    I have a 1951 ford COE cab that i picked up for 200.00.
    I need help from you guys who have built them.
    First what frame to use.
    I want to build a coe pick up or something similar to KOOKS chevy coe.
    I have a couple of frame choices but I would like to see what frame and steering set up to use.
    Thanks in advance
    This coe was a desert express truck as you can see in the door signage.
    The last picture is close to what I want in the end.
    I want to keep the door signage and weathered look since its very important to me.
    Thanks again
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 24, 2011
  2. Midwest Rodder
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,768

    Midwest Rodder
    Member

    There is a COE thread on here with a ton of pics and ideas, do a search, I think it is " can we start a COE thread"
     
  3. iwanaflattie
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 4,185

    iwanaflattie
    Member

    Yes thank you.I have read the entire thread and it was the only reason I joined the site just didnt want to ask newbie questions on that amazing thread.
    BTW i have been taking notes but I would love more info.
    thanks
    Seth
     
  4. Starbuck_88
    Joined: Oct 9, 2009
    Posts: 43

    Starbuck_88
    Member

    I'm with ya. So much info on there and so many options. I just want someone to tell me what the easiest thing to do is but I don't wanna get yelled at in the COE thread. I'll monitor this one.
     
  5. Midwest Rodder
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,768

    Midwest Rodder
    Member

    One of my friends is building a COE and he is using a 1 ton chevy box van ch***is. His cab fit very nice on the ch***is. He is planning on running a Caddy engine mounted behind the cab with a roll back bed to haul cars on.
     
  6. iwanaflattie
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 4,185

    iwanaflattie
    Member

    That sounds cool.I have been talking to a member that did a 48 coe and he says that a 1988 gmc 1500 is a good choice.
    I could have it for free.
    I will need help oh the steering part.I have the idea but it will be hard getting there.
    I want to shorten the frame and mount the engine in the stock position.
    I am a short pos and have lots of leg room and the heat dont bother me.
    After all its 126 out here,
    Thanks for the support I hope to get the big guns here.
     
  7. iwanaflattie
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 4,185

    iwanaflattie
    Member

    Despite the heat and other stuff(51 f1 carb bs),I am actually getting some stuff done.
    1-Cleaned the COE cab and did some repairs on the sheet metal
    2-got the donor truck stripped to the ch***is and running gear.
    Donor truck is a 1981 3/4 ton chevy deluxe dually.sbc and 4 speed.
    3-Placed the cab and front end on the ch***is and I am in the process of figuring how and where to mount the cab.
    I am undecided if I want to use the sbc or a 270 GMC or any beefy 6 cyl to gain a little more leg room.
    4-I located a hood.
    5-I got 4 wheels and new tires for the COE at $50.00 US dollars a piece.


    I need the experts input:
    a)Do I keep the sbc and raise the cab a little to keep some of the heat out of the cab and gain some room.??
    b)Do I look for a beefy 6 inline and gain some leg room??
    Here are some pictures if you don't mind.
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=26339
    Thanks.
    Seth
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2019
  8. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 5,080

    phat rat
    Member

    About the only real way to get good leg room is to put the engine behind the cab, not under it.
     
  9. pug man
    Joined: Apr 9, 2007
    Posts: 1,010

    pug man
    Member
    from louisiana

    x2 on what phat rat says. I am building a 48 ford COE and that is what i am doing. I made the floor all flat except for the toe board and have all kinds of leg room.
     
  10. iwanaflattie
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 4,185

    iwanaflattie
    Member

    I would have no idea how to hook the ****** and accelerator and where would you mount the radiator.
    I guess if you let me see your set up,I could duplicate it.
    there is noway I could figure it out on my own.
    I am going with a short wheel base COE with a wreck/tow truck bed,Will it still work with the engine mounted behind the cab?
    Could I take a sneek peek at yours?
     
  11. hemiabone
    Joined: Jul 30, 2009
    Posts: 10

    hemiabone
    BANNED
    from wash state

    one of the guys i know in wash state is doing one on a ford 1-ton ch*** with a 7.3 de.and 5-sp trans.with a 8-foot box on it.will look kool when he is done.
     
  12. So cool! Want more pics though!

    Klaus
     
  13. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 5,080

    phat rat
    Member

    With the motor in the back it's easiest to run an automatic. Cable shift and cable throttle are the way to go. Radiator in front and use tubing to get the water back to the radiator. I was building mine with a 30" semi sleeper and had a Cad 500 under the sleeper. I don't know if you can tell by this pic but the floor was big enough to be a dance floor. LOL
     

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  14. iwanaflattie
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 4,185

    iwanaflattie
    Member

    that is awesome phat rat,how bout pics of your engine/******??
    got a link??
     
  15. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 5,080

    phat rat
    Member

    No link but I'll see if I have any pics of it. The truck is long gone as I sold it uncompleted back in 02.
     
  16. iwanaflattie
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 4,185

    iwanaflattie
    Member

    Thanks phatrat any pic would be awesome.
     
  17. 38Chevy454
    Joined: Oct 19, 2001
    Posts: 6,787

    38Chevy454
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have sent you some pictures of my build. But to agree with the others, if you want it to sit low, you either have to put the engine behind the cab or have the engine into the cab feet area. You could mount the engine under the cab and have the cab up high, but it will be tall as stock. Engine behind the cab then an auto trans is many times less h***le than manual. One problem you may have with your plan for shorter wheelbase is that with engine behind you may not have enough driveshaft space, or an awfully short driveshaft.
     
  18. iwanaflattie
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 4,185

    iwanaflattie
    Member

    Hey man!!
    I have seen a guy with a direct drive set up,****** yoke directly connected to the rear and yoke.
    I guess I could put the engine behind the Cab and Reinforce the bed floor to protect the engine if I want to put stuff in the bed.
    Or I could make a dog house that is very strong and removable so I can have access to the engine to work on it.
    Or a tilt bed.??
    May I ask where you sent the pics???
    Thanks,good to hear from ya,I heard you werent feeling good lately.
     
  19. 38Chevy454
    Joined: Oct 19, 2001
    Posts: 6,787

    38Chevy454
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Connecting the engine directly to the differential requires you to make the engine mounting to go up and down with suspension movement. You still need a slip yoke on the trans to account for thermal expansion and other small tolerance issues. Some race cars have solid mounted rear and they don't have the problem of the engine being able to move with suspension.

    I thought I sent you pics over email? I send a lot of people pics from my COE build, I could be confused........:confused: If you want any specific pics just PM me your email address and I can send how I built my COE. My 49 on 74 GM ch***is is very similar to your basic parts.

    Depending on how low you mount the engine relative to the frame behind the cab and how your bed is relative to the frame, it may not require much height on the engine cover.

    I am fine, just busy with life and 53 GMC project so don't spend as much time here.
     
  20. derbydad276
    Joined: May 29, 2011
    Posts: 1,336

    derbydad276
    Member

    use a caddy eldorado or olds toranado engine and trans mounted in the bed

    or use a econoline van frame and keep it all ford
     
  21. iwanaflattie
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 4,185

    iwanaflattie
    Member

    I forgot about suspension movement.
    Thanks.
    I will PM you.

    It was hard enough to get this far,
    I will prolly use that set up on another COE???If I succeed with this one...:eek:
     
  22. fordf5
    Joined: Aug 9, 2011
    Posts: 6

    fordf5
    Member

    my name is Al. I just registered on the site because I have an all original 51 ford f5 coe. would like to chat with anyone out there about these trucks
     
  23. fordf5
    Joined: Aug 9, 2011
    Posts: 6

    fordf5
    Member

  24. iwanaflattie
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 4,185

    iwanaflattie
    Member

    do you have a phone number Al?
     
  25. iwanaflattie
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 4,185

    iwanaflattie
    Member

    even tho I would love to have a slammed coe,I also love the way a stock short wheel base coe wreckers look.
    So leaving the engine flush with the floor would make the cab sit higher up but thats ok,I would like to make something like this now:
     

    Attached Files:

  26. iwanaflattie
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 4,185

    iwanaflattie
    Member

    This is what I got done today.
    i Still have to bring it forward a couple of inches and start my steering set up
     

    Attached Files:

  27. dragrcr50
    Joined: Jul 25, 2005
    Posts: 3,865

    dragrcr50
    Member

    i am just starting one with a ten foot box on it on a city bus ch***is which is straight all the way back and flat has dually rear. peterbuilt tilt tele column, vac / hyd brakes. small air compressor and tank which i will mt under floor , radiator, intercooler and condenser and fans in stock location. motor home 19.5 wheels 6 lug, axle in front with springs and air bags, air bags in rear with long trailing arms like a nascar deal. ***mins deisel 5.9 12 valve and 4 speed allison. putting it in the rear behind cab, eng and trans is 6 ft long most will be under floor in bed. can drop cab over rails 12 inches for a low mean look and standard heigth of ch***is. it is 204 inches and im shortening it to 154 inch like a 4 door ford f250.
     
  28. iwanaflattie
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 4,185

    iwanaflattie
    Member

    nice drgrcr50 I am going to have a 110'' wheelbase truck so no room to put it behind the cab.
    I will just have to **** it up and leave the engine in stock location and insulating the **** out of the floor and firewall.
    I will sacrifice comfort for the right look
     
  29. iwanaflattie
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 4,185

    iwanaflattie
    Member

  30. RMR&C
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 4,926

    RMR&C
    Member
    from NW Montana

    That looks like it will work fine...What did you use for u-joints? Thanks for the vid, I need all the ideas I can get!
     

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