I'm working on a 37 Ford pickup that's got small rusted through pin holes around the front and rear windshield spots as well as around the front cowl where the hood lasing would be. My question is what's the best way to fix this issue? Mig, tig, bondo, all metal, etc.etc... I'm trying with a mig welder but ant having too good of luck. Thanks for any suggestions.
depends how big they are if very small u can just spot weld them closed with the mig.over 1/4 hole cut out and put in patch panels.if you can get to the back side find you some fairly thick copper and put on back side then spot weld it shut then pry off copper pc.the weld won't stick to the copper
Clean it really well and then "ALL METAL" it ,will last forever.I wouldnt weld on weak rusty metal if you cant get to the back side of it.If there are pinholes here and there its proly paper thin all around it .Break out the welder and you may do more harm than good on pinholes not knowing how bad the other side is.The best solution obviously is to cut the bad area out and fab up a new piece to weld in ,but the "All METAL" will work fine .Do not use Bondo ...
Pinholes = Cancer. The ultimate way to cure this type of Cancer is to cut it all out and replace it with new metal. If this is not possible, sand blast (or crushed gl*** blasting is way better for your health) and All Metal the exterior. If there is any way possible, coat the inside of the post(s) with a POR-15 type product. Good Luck Doctor. VR&C.
I have been using it for years on weld seams and yes pinholes .Never had it come loose or let moisture p*** through it .Most body shop supplies carry it .Its not cheap (about $30.00 -$35.00 a qaurt) ,but you get what you pay for as this stuff is specifically made for this kind of work.The only bad things about it is it stinks like Hell ,its hard to work down if you apply too much ,and it wont keep long once you open the can.Mixes with a liquid activator simular to mixing fibergl*** .BTW ,make sure you use surgens gloves when you apply it or you will be wearing it on your hands for a week or two ...
This. While the ideal would be to replace all rusted metal with new metal, it's not always practical. Brazing will flow into the cleaned pinholes and then lead over it. Cleanliness is your friend. Previous thread... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=308617
for small to large pin holes,"silicone nickle bronze" rod and a tig works great. takes less heat than steel rod, flows out well and is a permanent repair. you dont have to mess around with a backer, you wont blow out the hole and epoxy primer likes it too.
"All Metal" is All bull ****. what good does metal shavings in your filler do? Best way to fix it, patch it. If your brave enough to braze the holes up and lead over, then just lead over and skip the brazing. Lead will hold in a small pin hole. prep both sides.
Whats your skill lever and whats your budget, that my be the best way to answer your question, if areas are still solid, spot blast,Epoxy prime,fill and paint, will out last us both, Dave
if I understand you right ,you've got rust in the windscreen posts or A-pillars? IMO ...don't **** around with structural areas of your cars bodyshell...do it once and do it right. If you can't do it yourself then pay a professional. If its got pinholes cos its rusting from the backside...it'll just come back again. you need to spray some kinda rust preventative behind the repair also after you've painted it. I use only Fishoilene -nothing else'll do round here just my .02 PB
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