Problem Solving: The Way too Expensive Clear Flake Steering Wheel

Alright, I saw the prices on those damn clear flaked wheels.

I saw the classifieds post on the rolled wheel outers too.

Got me thinking: How difficult would it be to produce clear flake wheels, really? Seems that you'd have two chunks of billet CNC'd that could be smooshed together as a mold, put your metal ring portion and center section in, clamp the mess together, and poor in some type of clear resin w/ flake in it.

Give me your thoughts. If this could work, I'd probably be into going partners w/ someone on it.

 

Oooh. You said billet.

 

If I had a wheel the right size and shape,I'd pull a rubber mold off it,
never mind the expence of CNC.

Two obvious problems,getting the bubbles out of the resin,
so you have a nice clear finished product;
and keeping the metalics suspended until the resin kicks.

A vacuum bell can be used to suck all the bubbles out before you pour the resin,and if the resin is thick enough,you might not have a problem with the metalics settling.

I did see one place that gets $400 and up,to redo the rim on your old wheel.

 

If you put the mold in a multi-axis tumbler and tumble it while the material kicks there wont be any filler settling.
The company my Brother in law works for has these to tumble Spas (Jacuzzi's, but not that brand)
They can take up an entire room or factory space if the part is big.

 

I was thinking about your clear flake wheel post, got me to thinking... That's not a good thing

I just got my thermoforming machine out of storage and I used to make molds for resin casting with it all the time. clear PVC works best, styrene melts and sticks to the resin.

If I were to find a steering wheel rim that is the right size, cut off the spokes. I could bury it halfway in a shallow tray of that rubber mold builder stuff, drill a few holes around the outside of the rim to let the vacuum suck down the PVC during the thermo forming.

I was thinking that this would be a flat wheel, so some kind of reinforcing ring and spokes would have to fabbed up, and the spokes (or spoke ) I'm thinking that 1/8" plate steel would work or aluminum a little thicker, polished up nice. or sprayed with metalflake paint to match.

Put a couple of dowels on the outside to make channels so the mold can be filled when clamped together.

The thermoformed They should fit tight without much flash at all. maybe drill a few bigger holes and use them for locators.

Use the thermoforming method that Smokey used to make the Zephyr taillights and grill from a few weeks ago.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48504

Now you should have a rubber bottom half (probably be better if this was the front of the wheel.), a PVC top half

Now lay the ring and spokes out on rubber half, center them and trace the outside of the spokes and cut out an area so that the spokes fit flush onto the top of rubber mold with an exacto knife. the only place it has to be really exactly the same depth is where the spokes meet the inside edge of the new wheel. This couldn't have been during the molding, because the rim would be in the way. You could just use a wheel that already has a flat profile (like a pre-50's Ford), and chip all the plastic way later and use the metal guts inside.

Lay the the new metal guts in the bottom mold, and since each side can be poured separately, build thin layers, maybe 1/8" deep with metalflake in each,wouldn't have much room TOO settle. When both sides are just about full, put the mold back together, fill with more resin with flake in it. This should completely inbed the ring in your clear rim.

I suppose you could make a deep '61 Olds type of wheel if you left a little bit of the spokes on the inside and made your spokes match the shape, just cut the center out of your PVC mold top and make couple of moon shaped plywood hold downs to keep the PVC against the rubber.

You could just use the mold builder for the top half of the mold too, but I have the machine, so I think I'm gonna try it for a super secret project only JDee and I know about.

 

Lots of good advice here. Mould making is trial and error. To make one on the cheap here is a quick overview for a simple shape with no undercuts. Feel free to contact me if you want clarification or suggestions.

I’ve done a lot of casting and mould making with various materials, plaster, rubber, resin..etc. There are many different ways to approach making a mould but check taxidermy supply places like http://www.smooth-on.com/default.htm

I’ve never used these folks but have used materials similar from local suppliers. Resin produces heat when it cures so your mould material will have to be matched to your resin along with a proper release compound.

The real cheap way to do it is make a split mould out of what is called sculpture or lab plaster. Most drywall/stucco places carry this kind of plaster, or phone an art school sculpture department for supplier info. But this method does not allow for what is called undercuts — spots where the mould will get trapped in the original. That’s why a flexible rubber mould is sometimes the answer.

If you have a wheel to cast, make a plasticine or clay bed with walls around your structure and a jig to hold/ suspend the wheel. Place dowels sticking out of the bed, they will act as registration pins to get the whole thing to line up after. The more time you soend here the better your result. Make sure you spray your wheel a non-stick cooking spray or coat in Vaseline, but careful not to build it up in detail areas.

Fill the plasticine/clay bed with plaster until the bottom half of the wheel is covered. Let it set-up overnight so all the moisture is gone. Coat the open plaster face and dowel pins with shellac, two-three coats. Fill up and cover the remaining portion of the wheel with plaster and let it set. It may be a good plan to build a couple of plasticine sprues off the wheel let air bubbles out and of course a pouring vent.

Once the plaster has completely set-up you can break the mould apart, gently taping with a rubber mallet and lots of patience. Cover the top portion, inside with shellac. Then cover all the plaster with shellac; this stops it from flaking off. You can cut old inner tubes to make big elastics to hold the whole mould together.

One side of the mould will be a little complicated because you will want to suspend the steering wheel ring inside the mould. You could build up one side of the mould while it’s open and embed the ring inside, then clamp and fill. Just a thought. If you are just doing the top and bottom portions of a wheel it’s a little simpler.

Spray the recommended release agent in the mould. To get suspended particles you can pour resin into the open moulds and run it around to make a gel coat (of sorts) layer. Once it hardens mate the moulds and pour in the flake mixture. If you stand the mould upright and gently tap on it most bubbles will come out. Be sure not to over mix the resin, that’s where the air is introduced. You will have some flashing and will have to cut off and the sprues, fine sand and coat with a spray clear.

Like I said this is just for simple shapes. I have had lots of success with plaster moulds — they are reusable too. This is just a basic guide, so you may want to read up some more on casting techniques. If you have never done mould/casting try a rubber ball to start. It will give you a good indication of the materials and methods you need. And how fun it is to clean up liquid plaster after the plasticine/clay dam breaks. :]....

Anyway good luck.

 

first of all.. I am pissed off that I didnt get off my ass and sell some of the excess wheel rings i have laying around.. maybe I'll list them in the "yard sale" later today..

at any rate..
I've already tried to do something very similar to what your suggesting.. and the problem that i experienced is exactly what unk ian is suggesting.. first getting the bubbles out of the resin and more importantly getting the metallics suspended in the wheel ring and not just on one side..

I was using a rubber mold process and casting clear acrylic.. with a dash of flake type material mixed in..

the problem as identified is that the resin took so long to harden that the flake settled to the bottom of the part..(which was actually the top given the mold I was working with)

I even experimented with abit of straight up f'glass resin with similar results..

I think what you would need. FOr this to work well in an uncontrolled "home shop" is a quick setting (cure time in the MINUTES range) castable material that would start with the consistancy of water (to help elievate air pockets) AND something that wouldnt end up so HARD and brittle..

I believe that by the time you go to all the trouble.. you'd be close to what the wheel costs..

 

Dr. J has the answer.
By slowly rotating the mold as it cures,the metalics would not
be allowed to settle.
Probably have to cap the sprue.

 

If I were olny makeing on wheel I'd make a plaster mold. If you use a real steering wheel to make your mold you can even have those little finger bumps.

I know it works like a champ to make glass trim peices for your race car, no reason it wouldn't work for a resin wheel. I wouldn't think that the flake settling would be that big a deal. it doesn't weigh much and normally resin is thicker than paint.

 

I made a vacuum chamber outta PVC
been using it for quite a while works fine.
No bubbles...
I used ton off glass cloth and resin on the bottom then filled
it with about 1/2" of resin and Metal shavings.
Use a 1/2 piece of Lexan for the top with clay
as a sealer. Use an AC pump to de-gas with.
These things can Implode "Guess How I know"
thats why the overkill top and bottom.

I think they make a gelling agent for use with pearl
to keep it suspended in the Clear Resins for making
mother of pearl castings,
Not sure if it would work for flake?
Jdee

 

A link to the gelling stuff. Might make the resin to thick not sure.
http://www.delviesplastics.com/casting_resin.htm
Jdee

 

You may want to look into vinyls, you have to heat them, but I believe you can get quick curing versions.

 

The stuff on the website JDee mentioned is what I'm familiar with, Casting Crafts.

It's the same stuff they used to make the paperweights with a coin suspended in the middle, it sets up fast (a few minutes), and is thick enough to suspend stuff. if you pour it in thin layers, the second layer "melts" into the first and you can't see the layers.

You could also make the back of the wheel a solid color hiding the reinforcing ring and clear in the front, and put stuff in it... barbed wire, bullet casings, you could even paint a pinstripe a design on the flat surface and then put the clear front on, it'll act like a lens. They make transparent color dyes too.

If you use the mold builder stuff, you can coat the coat the wheel with a few coats of it, then imbed that in some plaster to save money and support the flexible rubber when casting.

As far as bubbles, you are going to have random flecks of stuff in there anyway, a few little bubbles shouldn't detract from that. If the bubbles leave a gap in the surface, you can always fill it with a lttle resin in a plastic eyedropper or on the end of a toothpick., once this stuff is COMPLETELY cured, it can be sanded with progressively finer sand paper until you get to the point where Novus plastic polish can be used.

I just found the original wheel from my '46 and I set up the thermoformer tonight... I think I may just have do one of these.

 

Ive been using the clear plastic from smooth on to try to reproduce parking lenses for my buick and for some hambers too. Thats this has some real bubble issues and it is thin suspending the flake would be a bitch and bubbles are killing me and thats even with a vacume. I belive its the mold release that is suposed to work with the clear but I have no other logical culprit if some one knows of a good durable clear let me know with little bubbleing issues.

 

has anyone tried buying and old black or white grant three spoke, clea it up and remove the vinyl, then paint the wheel with the metal flake paint that matched your car. Then get clear tool dip mix some flake into it. the trick is you have to rig the wheel up so that it keeps turning. the stuff cures in air.

 

Some clear resins are not UV resistant,so they will Yellow with age.
UV resistant clears are available,but are harder to find,
and of course,more money.

 

Depending on the mold design,and the shape of the part,
it may require vent holes to allow air to escape as the mold is filled.

 

There was significant air vents Im at a loss as to why this clear resin sucks so much.