Hi all, Im going to look at a 55 Caddy. What things should I look for? Common rust spots etc. I hear the engine can cost a bomb to rebuild along with the ******. Would a Big block Chev and turbo 400 be a cheaper option taking into account mods to make it fit.
Rear bumper ends rust bad. I have 2 with weak rocker panels. Only things I know of, never fooled with the original engine. Unsure what I am going to do with it
First of all...a rebuild of the original 331" will not "cost a bomb", IF you shop around. It's like anything else, an SBC/BBC will cost you 1000 to 1600, depending on what the shop is, how big their ego is, etc. If you shop around, you'll find it can be done for the same price as a SBC... We rebuilt my brother's '54 Caddy 331"...got costs from 1200 to 6000....needless to say, it ended up costing 1500...cuz we didn't take lowest bidder nor highest. AND we found a guy that completely rebuilt the original 4-speed Hydramatic for 1600. Here, two years after it's been done, the car gets 21 to 22 mpg on the hiway at 70 mph...can't hardly do that with a big blok Chevy... I'm a fan of the SBC, but a Caddy engine in a Caddy is the best way to go...if nothing else, go find a 472" or a 500" Caddy and use a BOP T-400...the engines are cheap and plentiful...they can be rebuilt for the cost of an SBC or BBC. If you want to see my '55 Caddy build -a 5 1/2 year project, go here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=329070&highlight=the+best+55+caddy+build Be prepared to spend a few hours looking at pix and reading... R-
Check the areas at the rear quarters near the back windows by the trunk lid. Common rust areas because of water leaks.
Rocker panels at the rear near the skirts. There's several hidden supports that have no provision for drainage and they rot out back there. The usual front fender bottoms and floors near the A pillars. Check the body mounts and floor supports, pretty normal for 50s cars to have rotted floor supports from trapped mud and water. The chrome bill to do a whole 55 Cad will run somewhere north of $12-15K. There's a lot of chrome on those cars. Interior chrome is mostly diecast and there's almost always a lot of it all pitted up. Interior "nick-nacks" like door pulls, inside handles, vanity items, etc, can also add up quick. Even as a kustom you'll need a myriad of OEM trim stuff. Cadillacs are seldom for the "faint of wallet". Oh yeah, check out the rear of the body under the bumper and at the back of the trunk floor.
I'd have to agree with Roger on this one. Stick to a Cadillac motor for a Cadillac. You can find them around if you don't want to rebuild the original motor right away. I found a running 390 out of a '61 for mine, and didn't have to change motor mounts or anything. The 331-390 should be able to interchange without much h***le and the bigger, later model Cadillac motors are pretty dependable as well. The Cadillac motors have more torque IMHO, and get the land yachts going a little bit better. Good luck!
I can't tell you much about the body and rust areas. But I can chime in on the engine and transmission. First, you have the 1st year of the short tail Cadillac engines, so I am pretty sure you could bolt (original) hydro, 56-64 dual coupling hydro, or even the th400 from 64-66 Cadillac to the engine. Now going the other way, IIRC you can bolt the original hydro to 365, 390, and maybe even the 429's of 64-66. You may have to have the crank drilled out for the pilot bearing, and have the flywheel re-balanced for the 365 and up engines, but that is relatively inexpensive. I would research this more carefully, but I am pretty sure all of the above is do-able. The hydramatic in the 55 Cadillacs is more durable than the previous years. And finally, the engine you have is the first year of the "turbulent wedge" cylinder heads. The improvement allowed the HP to go from 230 (1954) to 285hp (1955). I am sure there are some other changes in camshafts, but the heads were much improved. Hope this helps out.
Thanks for all the info, I had a look at the car today. RHS Bumper end is rusted out and some minor rust in the RHR rocker panel the car is 100% 1955 including the interior that is still in ok condition. The only mod it has is Air Bags. It started and run smooth once warm, but the oil leaks oh man the oil leaks. Does anyone know of anywhere that does reproduction bumper ends at a fair price?
WOW I got a reply from the Cadillac Magician. Your car would have to be the best Cadillac I have ever seen. AMAZING and a credit to you thanks for the info to. Im thinking of taking the plunge and buying this thing now.
Thank you for the compliment, RD...but I AM NOT a magican...nor an expert on Cadillacs. I just know what I like and how to get there. As for the Caddy rear bumper ends...used would be your best bet...there is a HAMBer on here - Original Patina (I think that's his handle, he's out of Texas), that has (had?) some Caddys he was willing to part out...last I asked he wanted about $400 or $500 each for 'decent" ends, more for ends that didn't need re-chroming. You can also look for those parts (via cl***ified ads, etc) in the "dryer" parts of the US -Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, southern ColoRODo, etc. worst is, they even rusted in the dryer parts of the US, they were so thin from the factory and caught all the dirt and **** from normal driving. If I had some, or knew where there were some, I'd certainly sell them to you, but I do not, that's why I modified the rear bumper on my '55 Caddy. There are new pieces available (I think they are aluminum) for around $1500 each, which is waaa-aay more than I'd ever pay, you'd have to be a Caddy fanatic/purist to want to pay that much. Anyway, good luck on the '55...shoot some pix of it and/or your build/modification and post them here...there's a lot of Caddy enthusiasts here...if you've got any questions I can answer/helpyou with, don't hesitate to PM me... R-
Here it is I went out today and had another look at it. The owner put it up on the hoist for me and wow no rust at all. Only bit I could find was the RH bumper end, and a small patch on the RHS in front of the rear wheel. The Driver window gl*** is cracked (would this be an issue to obtain or can a gl*** place cut one as I think its flat?) Rear license plate light lenses are cracked and lhr signal lense is cracked. Also when the windows are up and you open the door the window catches and jambs on the flap down piece of stainless? is this common. Thanks again
Yes, catching the stainless at the top of the door is common...it's an adjustment but you have to take the panels off. Taillights and license lenses are available new (repro) from McVey's or USA parts...side gl*** is flat gl*** and can be cut by any gl*** house (use safety plate)... That Caddy is nice...looks like it's a Coop DeVille...the most expensive hardtop model back then...interior looks good too. Congrats... R-
OK all done the car is mine. Now all you 55 Caddy people get ready for me to pick your brains. Thanks to all for your advise on this one.
Your car looks great. I just bought a 55 caddi myself. Guy told me he just had the ****** rebuilt. Takes way to long to shift and then shifts way too hard. Very ill to drive. My first thoughts were to change ****** to turbo 400 but hopefully I can find someone in the Dallas ft worth area to help me out with the hydro. Love the color of yours. They are great cruzers.....
Yeah thanks, I like the color scheme also. I think you will find not to much wrong with your auto. I haven't had a chance to look on mine but do they have a throttle rod running to the auto (kick down rod) if so it may be a little over adjusted. Good luck with yours post some pics.
Sounds like TV rod is misadjusted. Simple fix. Don't even go 400! The hydro is a good ol' box and once adjusted correctly, the shift points will be fine. Remember the TV rod controls both the throttle valve pressure internally and does function as a kickdown rod too. This must be adjusted correctly or you are looking down the road at transmision failures.
OK got the car. Had a new window cut pulled the rear bumper to fix the rusted out ends and re chrome it $$$$ Think I'll have to re plumb the air bags it drives like a pig. Could be the old cracked conventional tires. Or poss the fact the air bags transfer air when cornering. May add some more valves so I have 4 corner adjustment. Other than that no nasty surprises. Found a good online site for parts www.caddydaddy.com He has been a real help so far. Now I just got to order a new set of white walls they are not cheep here in Australia $310-$360 a tire.
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