show me your floors!

I'm getting started on the floor tomorrow. My car is channeled 6" with 3x1x16ga tubing that I have welded to the original subrails. I've got a few ideas on how to proceed but definitely would like to see how other people have done their floors. Of specific interest is how people have tied into the cowl and firewall. Please note that I've decided to drop the rear another 2" so I'll be cutting the center of the subrails and making a driveshaft tunnel.





A narrative on your approach and what you did would be helpfull too.. THANKS!

 

Hope these help. Just Steve here on the HAMB did all the work on the floors









Back seat area


Trunk

 

My 31 Coupe, hope this helps.

 

my 30 a pick up channeled 3"

 

you guys fab up all your pans?... im lookin to do a direct replacement if anyone knows any good links for floor pans... i got a 53 chev sedan and have only found pans for the 53 truck so far.. my floors are gonna do for this year but next winter they are gettin cut out mine arent too bad but need replacing.

 

The floors in the 54 wagon have all been replaced with metal fabed up in the garrage with a brake and a bead roller,,,,,,,the floors,quater panels,door seals have been installed and I have just starting on the front fenders,,,,,,HRP

 

hERE.

 

30-31 Model A pickup

 

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Theres been a bit of discussion lately about channeling and putting a new floor on top of that framing.
I've had my coupe channeled for a few months now, and this weekend decided to go for the floor. I've never done this before, so my techniques may not be correct... But hell, they worked for me.
I knew a sheetmetal shop would charge a couple grand, so I spent that money on tools. I got a pan break, a shear, and a bead roller. Total cost 1,500.00 All are capable of four feet, and 16 gage.
I used 18 gage mild steel for the floor. It seemed pretty thick at first, but now that its in it seems about right.
To start with, I got about 5 pieces of posterboard and made patterns. The better and closer your patterns, the better your final fit will be, so take your time and get it just right.
I cut the straight lines with the shear, and the curves with a metal blade in a hand jigsaw.
Think about yur bends Its often important to do certain ones first so you dont block yourself from reaching others.
Once the tin is a fit, I drilled a quarter inch hole every two inches at every place there was a brace below. lotsa holes. Then I plug welded every hole to the brace below. Finally, I ground the tops of the plugs smooth.
I'm pretty happy with the result, and I ran the metal right up to the sides of the body, and intend to seamseal that point.

 

heres a pic of the floors in my 32 coupe and my 34 tudor