I just dropped my 305 SBC off at the builders and we got to talking..we ran the numbers off the crank and he said they were put 305s and 350s.Now what he asked me..(This is a TOTAL rebuild by the way..) did I want it balanced..? Im not to worried about the price but this is pretty much a stock re-build,nothing fancy.I bought a Performer intake with the matching cam for it..cam is listed at .420 intake,.442 exhaust.I will be using 2 Holly, 2 barrels. on it.Should it be done..? Or just run it..?
If it was a virgin engine, and you're re using the same crank and rods that were originally installed in the engine (not swapping for a different reground crank or rebuilt rods), then you should be able to get away without balancing it. For a high perf build, or when you swap any parts, it's a good idea to get it balanced.
Id go somewhere else .He selling you new everything ,connecting rods pistons ,You dont need all that,He's rooking you ..........
I've been told by machine shops and some guys here that a 305 and 350 have the same stroke,the cranks look the same,but they have different casting numbers.And the cranks are balanced different,so much so that it's difficult to rebalance a 305 crank to fit a 350 and the other way around
350 and 305 shared the same 3.48" stroke. Difference was bore diameter, 4"-v-3.736". Not being a expert however I know there are differences, i.e. internally balanced-v-externally balanced engines.
If your going to rebuild anyway find a 350, the cost to rebuild will be the same , and you'll have a engine you can work with when its done. not that I dont like 305s its just you'll get more out of a 350 for the same money.
These guys are absolutely correct. The cost will be the same, the mileage will be roughly the same, and the 350 will have potential that the 305 never will. You just CAN'T build a hard running 305 SBC. Well, you can but if you're running a 2BBL you're thrifty and you don't want to know what it'll take to make a 305 run! You'll be a LOT of money ahead by building a 350!
And I know BETTER...! Ok..the engine was a freebie.The re-build kit came with it..only thing I bought was the camshaft.The engine is for cruising..not going to drag race it,pull tree stumps out with it..just put in a 30 coupe to cruise in..thats all...dont want to smoke the tires or do wheel stands,just want to cruise...wanna start making some shows with it.
So you are using 2 holleys on a performer intake, what performance you would have gained you just lost. I would say rebuild it and leave it alone. If you were building something that you wanted to run and run hard I would suggest a balance along with align bore and decking it but I wouldn't bother with a basically stock motor. I did own a pretty hot 305 once just for all the nay sayers. It was balanced, blueprinted zero decked, and align bored. Along with the proper pieces to go fast. I did get lucky on my combo and it would hold its own.
If I cared/desired the engine enough to "rebuild" it, I would certainly also spend the extra bucks and balance it also. If you have ever had an engine balanced (and noted how much material was removed), you would be convinced to always balance the engine. Balancing isn't just for high-reving race car engines..it is also beneficial to the near stocker..simply for the longevity realized by an efficient, well ***embled rotating ***embly.
It would be a waste of those hard earned $$$, ***uming that you know for sure it is a 305 crank. 305 and 350 use the same crank but the balance is different. It ran how many miles balanced from the factory? It go that many again or more with a rebuild.
RPM is correct here. Yes a properly ballanced engine is nice to own and drive but if you have never had one you eill never know the difference. I have to ask how many of the fellas that are saying it will last longer ballanced have put or will put more than 100K on their rod? I know that some of you are like me and use the rod for dailey transportation but the majority will never ever put more than 20K on one in a lifetime. Its just a retorical question, food for thought not to offend someone and no response needed or expected.
If the parts are all stock, leave it alone. If anything has been changed in the lower end, balance it. Butch
I don't know what these so-called experts are talking about, but I'd balance it. You don't want your car to sit funny do you?
General consensus seems to be balancing is a good thing..agreed? So, the obstacle isn't about whether it is advantages to do, but more about to do with dollars spent. The last engine I had cost an additional $175.00 to have it balanced (which, by the way, is more then I'm used to paying). Let's say you keep your car 5 years/60 months, that equates to less than $3.00 a month for the balancing..now does it seem like too much money? Does it also help on the re-sale value..bank on it. Keep your receipts, you'll get the money back. You may only drive the car 20K miles, in your lifetime, but someone over the lifetime of the car may drive it 100K.
BALANCE IT!!! Blue line (shot peened etc.) will cost you $300, balance alone will cost you $150 and it DOES make a difference!!!! Some many things happen inside an engine and if you want it to last show your machinist that you are serious. Machinists are artisits in diguise and they are so meticulous! Change the oil regularly, not every 3000 miles but every three months. Clean oil keeps **** from floating around your crank case. Wear happens in crucial places, rod bearings, main bearings, cylinder bores are all critical areas. A balanced engine has less stress and turns with less friction. Friction is the enemy of a finely built engine. You can put together a crate engine for about 4K. If cost is your concern, buy it out of a box.
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