A buddy of mine has asked me to come over and Mig up the holes from the trim on his 63 chev. I'm not to bad with the Mig now, but I only ever weld stuff that warping and burning through isn't an issue. I'm thinking I'l just have to do a few spot welds on each one. Maybe move from one to another to allow for some cooling. I'd prefer to do it with an O/A welder, but he just wants to mig it. So am I on the right track here?
I have done this for three cars in a row now. If you can get behind it with a piece of metal go for it. I have used a bolt before then cut it off and used it in another hole. On the WLA brackets I have used a piece of alum. and just puddled it in. I just don't like that for sheet metal. tim
Turn the amps down on the welder pratice on some 20 gauge before you start . How big are the holes ? If you blow some holes no big deal . just spot weld and when when the red goes away spot weld some more(anout 15 secounds) . Where are you guys located. Good luck
If your welding these trim holes the inner doors should have been stripped out so...... Get yourself and nice thick piece of br*** or copper and have someone hold it on the backside, or clamp it. This will give you something to weld against while trying to blend onto the skin. It also is a heatsink that prevents blow through. PJ
be aware undercoat and sound deadener is flammable, roll the windows up so you don't throw weld spatter on them, have your camera handy and show us some pictures. Paul
Thanks guys. Fbomb, we're in Melbourne Australia. Huntingdale to be exact. If you're up for a road trip stop by and help. I'll take photo for you guys.
I have a couple tips for this, that may help........ You can find BARE steel nails[framing type] that are close to the size holes you are filling. stick the head in hole and spot slowly around the diameter of the nails head-then cut off the nail. also I have tried this with some sucess......get some BARE Acetylene welding rod and use it as a filler rod, while MIG welding......[it really works pretty good]-especially well on piholed rust where an area has a hole [or three] but you dont want to replace a larger area.
If you don't have a big hunk if br*** or copper like Petejoe said, a piece copper plumbing pipe works fine and is easy to shape to the contour of the piece you are welding. I have a few pieces I keep in my welding tool box just for such a purpose.