Riveting question - sealer or anti-squeak required?

That's a good tip with the wax. I'll file that into the data bank for the next time.

I use MEK for clean up. It used to be that I just soaked a rag and wiped down the mess. Now we know better....get some nitrile gloves at Costco. If you get any thiokol on your skin it takes a few days to wear off.
Dan

 

By the way....don't let the MEK get on any laquer paint...if you still use it. It'll cut right into it.

 

i've used this to repair a Zodiac inflatable boat when we tore the floor open in the Bahamas. worked unbelievable well no leaks, carried the four of us and two sets of dive gear and cooler [heavy].

 

Thanks everyone for your help! I'm going to use the nasty grey poly stuff I have, since I have it and that's really what it's application is. Can't remember how long it takes to set, but I bet I'll be working fast.

Looking forward to finishing this thing!

 

On the poly sealant you guys are using, look for a letter and a number (I.e: A-2, B-2, B-1/2, etc) . This will determine the type and work-life of the product.
The letter determines the type:
A= brushcoat style, thinner consistency, not optimal for pressure environments like fuel cells, etc.
B=pressure environment style, thicker consistency, used in fuel tanks

The number determines the work-life:
2= two hour worklife

Either product will work fine for what you're doing. If your gaps between the panels are big, I would suggest the "B" sealant because the consistency is thicker and won't have a tendency to run out of the gaps when the part is curing. "A" sealant is real easy to work with because it's thinner, but it has a tendency to want to run.

Usually, the stuff will dry tack-free in about 24 hours.

Definately read the mix instructions on the tube and make sure you mix it well. You want a consistent color, with no marbling (light and dark, like marble cake). A marbled look means that the sealant and the accelerator did not mix well enough. If you have that condition, just give it a mix by hand in a cup. If you don't remedy that, then the sealant may never kick off and cure completely.

 

I have the Chem-seal in the 6 oz. injection type tube. It is, indeed, a class B2 sealant. Like peanut butter, but not nearly as much protein and much stinkier!

2-hours isn't too bad. I'm just going to have to be careful, stay organized, and have a plan of attack so I don't waste any.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/prosealant.php

 

I would brush on seam seal at the faying surface. The thing is you want to keep moisture from getting in between the skin and the sub structure.

 

I am with you... keep it simple. Is this what you were refering to?
http://3mcollision.com/3m-strip-calk-08578-black.html