Hey Guys, funny how a 400 mile road trip will show the weak points of any car. The new motor ran like a champ the whole way down, and except for some small things the car was perfect!! But I did realize that the shcoks were too long after dropping the car 3 inches, and I blew out at least 1 wheel cylinder on the front brakes, but I think that the other might be leaking and about to go. Anyhow in the thoughts of driving easier & safer, the thought is to swap to front disc brakes, I know it not might be traditional-but my car is being built to drive, and sooner or later have the kids in it, so safety is no. 1. I have found a disc brake conversion kit on ebay for less than 300, the spindels do not have to modified, and it costs less than 300 bucks. From what I have read they are discs and calipers from a 70-78 camaro. But the questions is what type of dual resivour master cylinder should bolt in??? I also saw that TCI has a bolt in kit, but holy shit is it expensive..like 400 just for the master and the mount. My fab skills are limited at best, so I might have a problem with making a new mount from scratch. Also a buddy suggested going with a 70 camaro master cylinder, its really small & powerful. I really could use some good suggestions, and using the old drums is not in my plans-so..... Thanks Much for the help!!!!
I went with the ECI front disc kit, which at the time was about 600 bucks....expensive, but WELL worth it. They tell you exactly where each part came from, and why it's superior to other parts that could be subbed in. They'll also walk you through things on the phone and take as much time as you require. No spindle mods necessary. I'm EXTREMELY happy with it. For the power booster, I went with the entire setup from Walton Fabrication. I think that ran around 300 or so. I comes with everything from the mast. cyl, booster, mount setup, and brake pedal. Todd is the guy to talk to over there. I'm running an 81 TransAm posi disc rear on mine, so I didn't need the metering valve or any of that stuff that you might need for yours. Having it all firewall mounted helps you avoid the need for the pressure valves, too....if you're planning on running discs all around. I just didn't want to take any chances with anything brake related, so I spent my tokens there, as opposed to body panels....that stuff can wait till next year. Just my .02.
I used rebuilt stock drums, new dual MC and the ECI bracket for the MC. With new lines it was less than 200 bucks. Car stops well.
the plan is to leave the back drums as the rearend is from a 54....so it should be cool. I really dont need the power booster, manual brakes are fine...just need a good setup for the master and the discs. Also i would prefer to keep the master under the floor...so it might be tricky!!!
I used the master cylinder and booster out of a Chevy truck and I can tell you this. If I had to do it all over again I would buy the set up from Walton Fabrication, we spent so much time and effort in making it work to find out that the damn booster was bad! A smarter buddy of mine bought the Walton set up and it is SUPER nice and bolts right in. Belive me when I say that if I EVER do it again I will save up and buy the set up that is made for that car. Hope this helps. Sam
Scroll to the bottom of the page. EC-440 http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/chevy_master_assemblies.html That is the adaptor you need to keep the stock brake pedal. Just bolt on the correct disk/drum MC. Don't forget the residual valves. This is a manual setup. It is the same one I am using. You drill and tap you stock pedal. Real easy install.
chassis engineering makes a master cylinder mount that takes a 68-72 Mustang non power disc brake master cylinder. bolts right into the original holes. I bought my disc kit from R&B's, but they are out of business. had to figure out what rubber lines to use, otherwise it was everything I needed to get the brakes mounted on the spindles. so I say get a kit so you don't have to dick around at the parts store. plan on re-doing all your brake lines as well if you hadn't already figured that into the project. one more thing... be sure to write down all the part numbers so you will have them in case you need a replacement down the road. as I recall I had one bearing but the race was another part number. I like to order up a bunch of catalogs when I'm doing something like this.
Can you weld? I made my own bracket to "bolt in" a corvette master (get one with right side outlets) make a longer push rod and run ALL new brake lines. On the rear, use a modern line with a built in T. I had the stock type unscrew from the T and leak after I lowered it.
I got a Master Power kit off e-bay dirt cheap. Installed it no prob. They have pictures of all makes MC's with port info !! Dime, choose your MC (MUST have deep well for pushrod) then take a 3/8"X3-3.5" wide angle iron take out threaded plug from orig mc cut down hex nut area on lathe(make skinner flats) you will use this as a nut. Put angle iron lathe cut flat grove to mate with orig MC OD. Cut hole in angle to let "nut" just pass through-bolt to orig MC in orig hole. Drill 2 holes for new MC flange and get longer pushrod=done for 50 bucks works great in my 50 fleetline
If your lookin to build a safe ride @ low bucks, just split the system front/rear and run a dual master using the origional drum system. Drums in good shape will stop that old stove bolt just fine. Now if you are lookin to go to a SBC and race, thats a different matter. I'm still running stock drums on my '63 impala and it does anything I want. Granted it won't pull you down from 80 to 0 like discs will, but it will be a lot safer than a single master system. It will allow you to cruise safely till the additional bucks come along to do the disc system if thats what you want.
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