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Dual Master Cylinder w/40 Ford Pedals

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by blackrat40, May 29, 2011.

  1. blackrat40
    Joined: Apr 19, 2006
    Posts: 1,167

    blackrat40
    Member Emeritus

    Member MattStrube requested photos of my installation of
    a dual master cylinder using an adapter to my original
    '40 Ford pedals. I posted here for interested others to see.
    Photos were taken laying on the shop floor looking up under the floorboards.
    Photos #2 and #3 show a side view of the adapter, which
    is an aluminum piece with countersunk bolts mounted to
    the original '40 Ford master cylinder mounting place on
    the pedal bracket. (push rod removed in pic's).
    The source of the adapter and dual master cylinder was
    Sachse Rod Shop in Sachse,Texas. Adapter about $28.00 :cool:
     

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  2. carlos
    Joined: May 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,388

    carlos
    Member
    from ohio

    you remember what MC you used with the ports on that side and is it disc and drum or drum and drum
     
  3. blackrat40
    Joined: Apr 19, 2006
    Posts: 1,167

    blackrat40
    Member Emeritus

    I bought both M/C and adapter from Sachse Rod Shop,Sachse,TX.
    Catalog Volume 9
    The adapter is part # CHA-AS-2021 $38.95
    Dual chamber M/C # CPP-EM-C100-S $54.95
    My setup is 11" disc brakes up front and '67 Firebird posi- with
    stock drums on the back. I used a proportional valve and one
    residual valve.
    I have not added fluid and bled everything yet.
    What you see is the preliminary installation to get the lines right.
     
  4. MattStrube
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 1,073

    MattStrube
    Member

    Awesome, thanks. What kind of clutch linkage you running? And what transmission do you have.
     
  5. blackrat40
    Joined: Apr 19, 2006
    Posts: 1,167

    blackrat40
    Member Emeritus

    I currently have a '49 Ford pickup 3 speed open driveshaft trans.
    with the original '40 Ford clutch linkage.
    This is a "weak transmission" set up behind my big early Rocket
    engine.
    I have just obtained a rare 3 speed early Olds trans. that will handle the torque. This is going to require re-engineering the
    clutch linkage and trans. mounting arrangement.
    I am attempting to do all this without modifying the stock X-member. I would like to leave the car where it can be restored to stock by some future owner.
    I know...I know...I like to "wear the hair shirt" as the Brit's say!
     
  6. johnstonad
    Joined: May 28, 2011
    Posts: 3

    johnstonad
    Member

    drum and drum is really nice. I recommend it. :D
     
  7. carlos
    Joined: May 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,388

    carlos
    Member
    from ohio

    Thanks rat 40 Kinda had mine mocked up when I was working on my clutch linkage.Man this is a big help,thanks again.I am running MII with big brake front and 59 ford 9 inch with stock X member in my 36 Slowly makin some progress with it Thanks :)
     
  8. blackrat40
    Joined: Apr 19, 2006
    Posts: 1,167

    blackrat40
    Member Emeritus

    You're welcome Carlos. Glad it was some help for you.
    Here's a little tidbit that might be helpful if you are using the '36
    clutch linkage; the '32-39 clutch throwout bearing release shaft
    used a vertical arm on the trans. bell that the clutch linkage pushes on. If the engine and transmission have any ability to move forward and back, this can,and usually does cause a lurching and or chattering during clutch release.
    This condition was remedied by Ford on pre 40's by the addition
    of two stabilizing rods, one on each side of the trans. bell that
    attached to the frame X member to prevent the engine/trans. ***y.
    from forward and back movement.
    The 40 Fords introduced a rotating blade type release arm that
    rides a ball socket on the bottom X member rail which uses a
    twisting motion to the release shaft, rather than the pushing
    action of the clutch linkage which pushes the engine/trans. ***y.
    forward during clutch disengagement.
    The '40 ***embly could probably be adapted to your '36 by drilling two mounting holes on your frame to mount a '40 ball rig.
    Hope this helps more than confuses. Love your '55!
     
  9. carlos
    Joined: May 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,388

    carlos
    Member
    from ohio

    I welded an arm on the shaft with a rod to the swing arm on a SBC .Did pretty much the same thing on a 50 shoebox.Looks like it is going to work out,I had thought of moving my MC back about 10 inches and use a longer rod but Like the looks of yours much better:)
     

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