HELP...Rusted spark plugs stuck in aluminum Cyclone head***UPDATE***

The best answer yet. Destroy the plugs, INSTEAD of the head.

Cosmo

 

It is advisable to drill from the combustion side. If the drill bit catches in the plug body, it might spin the plug base loose. problem solved. Might have to chase the threads slightly. Good luck.

 

free bbq on craigs list, http://tulsa.craigslist.org/zip/2411069603.html maybe shoot the plug with some canned air once it is warm

 

"Clue me 1 to 2", pipe thread ?. That would be a taperd. I'm not that old put was there such a thread on plugs.

 

Ok, I've read every post and now my head hurts. I did go buy some Coke and poured it into the top of the head around the plugs to remove the rust off the plugs...like a doctor...first, do no harm.

If this don't work, I'll try all the other sugestions...maybe have a contest...

 

The thread on a Model A spark plug was actually a 7/8". It is not quite the same as 1/2" pipe, but is close. There is plenty of meat to work with.

 

Got it. Straight thread as in electrical.

 

they sell a freezing spray in an aresol can which is used to shrink the plug and pull the threads away from the head.if the head was heated up first;it sound like it would work?i have no experence with it so it is just another idea.

 

Drop the heads into a bucket of WATER. Leave them in for a day or two. Pull them out and give it a try then. You laugh now but im tellin ya from experience water is the best penetrant on the planet.

 

Ok, I'll try it after the Coke soak.

 

Try Water Worx. It's not that expensive and comes out of most household faucets

 

kroil is the shit.... ive had excellent results with it.

 

Using a band saw cut straight through the head up to but not touching the plugs, do that on both sides then put the cut along the edge of your work bench and press on both sides. This should break the head in half allowing you to take the plugs out...you were trying to save the plugs, right?

 

I am sure you know what will happen if you drop the head in vinegar.
In case your not sure though, please don't do that!!! You will have nice clean plugs and some aluminum soup...... Hope you get them apart with out to much trouble Larry.

 

I have used Kroil on paper machine bolts on the wet end that have been rusted tight for years and they come loose. It is tha shit.

 

a warm head will help even just solar energy
how long of a cheater have ya tried
can ya get at the head side?
maybe ya could EZ OUT them BAS ACK WARD
I assume the are a large dia spark plug.
with the electrode knocked out they become hollow ,,,,, then they could be cut inside out with a small triangle file ,, drilled out

 

Douse the aluminum area around the plug with freon - get a few cans of freon and a hose - open the valve and get the area around the head and plug nice and cold - do this for 2-3-4 minutes - the plug will crack loose.... I showed this to a few machinists that shook their heads no, no, no - until they saw it work!

The same method frees aluminum brake drums from steel hubs.

AB

 

will any of this work on a stock A head that still has the factory plugs - I think.....it still runs....but they look rusted scary in that head....think maybe I should change them?

 

Heat expands metal, so in a case like this if you heat the plug it expands possibly breaking the rust and corrosion bonding the parts together. You allow the bolt or plug to cool, maybe using your favorite oil between cycles and then try it. In a case where you can get a bolt red hot and then cooled quickly it can contract enough to loosen. Even something like a propane torch works wonders on aluminum parts and stuck iron/steel bushings or fasteners. This also why welding an extension to a frozen and now broken fastener generally results in easy removal with vise grips.

3wLarry good luck with the head man.

 

Huh? did i hear that right???

 

sounds silly but leave it out in the sun all day with more penetrating oil, the aluminum should expand more then steel, also since spark plugs seal on the outside of the head, fill the combustion chamber with oil it should work in a little better from the back side.

 

I have removed rusted in steel studs from aluminum manifolds by holding a lit candle over the stud and pouring the candle wax on the stud. The hot wax will go into the threads and acts as a lubricant and the stud will come out without galling the aluminum. No, I never tried it with spark plugs but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

 

Steel threads
+ too much torque
- antisieze
= distorted threads

After 40 years of industrial maintainance work don't ask me how I know. No matter how you get them out, the threads will be permantly distorted, (aluminum is soft). Fortunatly spark plug threads are easy to repair. Heli Coils work, but I like those steel inserts with a flange on the bottom that you press in from the bottom up.
Just close your eyes, lay on a breaker bar, hope for the best and turn (lefty loosey).
The only way you'll ever get a chemical in there is to erode the aluminum to a point of uselessness.

 

Well, aren't YOU a ray of sunshine this morning? ...but you're probably right...but I'm still gonna try EVERYTHING else first.

 

I have an old aluminum intake that had steel water outlet pipethread fittings in it from the beginning of time. I thought they would never come out but I just used a impact gun and rattled them out. Threads stayed fine.


Now another thing I HEARD was to use low heat (heat gun or propane torch) on the aluminum surrounding the plug and then use a can of compressed air (computor keyboard kind) and turn it upside down and spray the plugs. The liquid that comes out(when upside down only) is SUPER FREEZING COLD and and will shock the two metals apart.

 

Funny, but no one ever calls me "Mr. Sunshine." I ain't a morning kind of guy-more a crusty old fart.

Don't blame you one bit. Hope for the best and prepare for the worst is how I do it. Worst case scenario usually has my face in it.

 

Get a buddy with a tig welder heat up the plug on the thread side.You can use the foot pedal to adjust the heat get it good and hot as it is cooling off quench it with a large candle a couple of times.When it is cool to the touch remove those bad boy's real easy.Removing porcelain may aide you along.I've done dozens of bolts/studs broken off flush or down the hole in steel,alum,brass whatever 6/32" bolts to 3/4" makes no difference. Haven't been stumped yet been at it for 25 years.Not very hard.A torch will work but the heat is not as concentrated as tig and not as manageable.
This will give you an overview http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremoval.htm

My 2¢

Tig.

 

how about you just clean the plugs and see if the spark and put that sucker back on the banger and run it .....at least you wont have to worry about the pugs loosening on you
tk

 

CUT PRICE TO $796.00 and SELL IT!
(DOLLAR off for each bad plug....)
USE A BLUE SHARPIE ON THE NAME TO HILITE IT ..
PASS THE GOOD DEAL ON..... SOMEWHAT

NO DRAMA AND IT AIN'T BROKED YET

 

My machine is broken... seems like the bolts are welded into the aluminum bits...!