Have a fresh rebuilt 350 that I'm going to swap this weekend. I've heard that rotella t oil is good for break in but what weight? Or any other oils good. Engine has a mild hydralic cam in it.
Diesel oil is a bit thick for break in. Put "break in oil" or ZDDP in search. Find some additive like ZDDPlus & add it to something like 10W-20 or oil specificly for break in like Comp cam oil.
I've always used straight 30 wt with no problems, but I don't know if it's any better than other oil or not. Just one of those "If it's not broke, don't fix it" deals. Larry T
Most of the autoparts stores carry Lucas products nowadays. Lucas has a excellent Engine Brake In w/ ZDDP, you can add this to most any good quality conventional oil and be safe.
I've done some research on this subject lately and I agree with Traditions Racing. The diesel oils aren't as good as they used to be. Rick
I just dug out the article I read on flat tappet cam break-in where they rated the various oils/additives...it was in the Car Craft mag I just got the other day. You may want to read the whole article.
I just read yesterday in my new car craft that the joe gibbs break in oil is dam near the best one to use because it has high levels of the zinc and phosphorus (whats needed for break in) and it leaves out the detergents that are in regular oil. They say that the detergents cause the Zn and P to be less effective. They also said use light springs and change them out to the regular stiff ones after break in. Another thing they may have said (i read a bunch of stuff yesterday on cam break in) is that the lube you are supposed to place all over the cam doesnt last that long and ends up dripping off if left too long before you start it. Im going with this sh#t for my next cam install. If you must I would use just 30W Non Detergent oil with a bottle or 2 of a break in additive, would get you close to the joe gibbs stuff i bet. Hope you make it through!!! Good luck!
Ive use 30w rotella T on my last engine but this one has been done for a while now and never had oil in it. The cam and everything was greased up. I will go hit local parts stores see if i cant find a break in oil if not order from summit. The break in procedure i was told to do was to hold the engine at about 2000 rpm for 30 minutes then drain oil and fill back up with regular stuff. You guys do anything different?
on summit i found some lucas 30w break in oil. 5qt jug for 30 bucks. Now with that oil do i just use it for the break in process or till the next oil change?
If someone actualy said Rotella T then they are not your friend. WoW.... I cant understand why anyone would tell someone to use a non-egr engine oil in an engine with an egr system???? Go with any oil that the cam mfg reccomends. I use castrol 10 w 40 start the engnine up, run at about 1200 rpms and roll the throttle up to 1800 then let it rest back at 1200, for 10 min.... then I drain the oil and change the filter. then.... with fresh oil and filter I start the engine and go over any adjustments as necessary. after 20 min I dump the oil again and change the filter. If the car is a driver, change the oil at 500 miles, then 1500, then 3000 from there on out. After you get to 300o you can then use synthetic oil if you want......Thats what I do on racing engines or new car engines or street rod engines.......
just because the enigne doesnt have an egr valve doesnt mean it isnt an egr engine. It cloggs up even the piston ring grooves ect..... pcv. Diesel engines until the 2010 models didnt have egr valves and werent designed with them. I have first hand witnessed gas engines fail as a result of rotella t..... No one will ever convince me this works. I also am not a fan of lucas oil or engine products. Better machines shops sell Pennzoil high Zink racing oil, Hi zink oils are great for super lubrication..... I use Mobile 1 in my SuperDuty, and castrol HD 30hd in my racing engines.
I highly rec pre-oiling the engine ... every time a new engine is about to be fired. In the situation you described, pre-oiling is not a suggestion it is a requirement being that the engine has apparently been sitting for a while since being rebuilt. As far as Rotella ... my research has found that it no longer has the elevated zinc levels in it. Do a search on this site .... LOTS of info regarding zinc and oil.
Brad Penn break in oil. Or use some regular 30w and get a few bottles of GM EOS(engine oil supplement) about $18 a bottle... Valvoline racing oil has alot of zinc in it also
Oh for fks sake. Search the forums, how many f'n oil threads do there need to be around here. I dunno why you all even answered. Just remove the oil pan, fill it to the top with valve grinding compound, and then stick the pan back on, but do this in the car, so its upright, and you don't spill any, then start it up, and run it at 5 grand, for 40 minutes.
PHUCKER ... relax, didn't you get the memo? We all take turns asking this same question once a week. I just checked the schedule and you should be asking this question sometime in early August.
I put a new 350 chevy 4 bolt in my coupe last year and used Brad Penn break in oil did the job just fine,..........PINCHER
Joe Gibbs has a break in oil, and then change over to their "Hot Rod" oil made for non-roller cams. ( that is the name of it) Brad Penn might also don't know. if you your gonna use a conventional oil and additives, use a non-detergent 30w and here is more .....http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=596495&highlight=flat+cam none of today's oil has enough or any of the stuff needed for flat tappet.
chill out phucker, ahaha sounds funny. Just a question no need to reply bud. well i couldnt find any of the joe gibbs oil so i talked to some local shops they told me any non-detergent 30w would work that with a bottle of comps break in oil should do the job
Hmm..I wonder what they did before every manufacturer came out with a "specialized" BI oil that they charge a premium for. Put a good petroleum oil in it and change it after a few hundred miles. Be easy on the motor the first few hundred miles...Simple
Priming/prelubing is supposed to add around 20,000 to the life of the engine. Just thought I'd throw that in. Larry T
The Jalopy Journal
