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SBC starter issues.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by saeger, Jun 14, 2011.

  1. saeger
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 115

    saeger
    Member

    Okay so here's the deal I've got a 1974 2 bolt 350 with a 1968 307 flex-plate. The 1968 starter doesn’t bolt up to the new block because it's got the bolts straight across instead of staggered. So I got a 1974 starter that has the bolts staggered, it bolts up to the block but wont engage the flex-plate. I put the 1968 starter on with one bolt to see if it would reach the flex-plate, it does but then it pivoted on the bolt and wouldn’t engage again.

    Is there another starter that could bolt into the 1974 block and reach the 1968 flex-plate? I'm really trying to avoid having to take it all apart again.

    Thanks.
     
  2. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,630

    badshifter
    Member

    Search is for you. There was a whole big thread on this very topic last week or two. Had part numbers, applications and everything.
     
  3. Gr***hopper, you need a starter that has the staggered pattern. 153 tooth flywheel.
    Straight pattern is on the 168 tooth flywheel.
    Search, learn Gr***hopper.
    Tia Kwon Leap you will learn one day.
     
  4. saeger
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 115

    saeger
    Member

    Well, I read the topic you mentioned. Thanks. Unfortunately my block only has two offset mounting holes so it needs the 168 tooth flywheel. I did some research and found out that you can drill a hole for the straight across bolt pattern so I can use the 153 tooth starter. Any advice on how to do that? At first glance it looks like it would be easier then taking the engine out again.
     
  5. Steve
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,010

    Steve
    Member

    why not just replace the flexplate with the 168 tooth version? or look at aftermarket mini starters you might find one that will work
     
  6. Steve
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,010

    Steve
    Member

    I take that back those are mostly straight across but will work on 168 tooth flexplates.
     
  7. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,630

    badshifter
    Member

    You can drop the trans, swap the flexplate and have a permanent solution. Couple hours and 40 bucks for a flexplate. Or...you can have the "attempt to drill, tap, align, screw with, chinese aftermarket ****py starter and shims and bolts and washers and deal with it forever" type of solution. Priceless....
     
  8. saeger
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 115

    saeger
    Member

    Hmm. Maybe not such a great idea. Well I figured if someone else did it then I could do it. But I guess that's the difference between "could" and "should".
     
  9. Didn't GM put out a few starters that had both bolt patterns on the nose cone housing? Didn't it roll around in a shaker cleaner filled with Coke bottle caps to clean off the barnacles? Memory from being 17 years old looking at stuff in a starter rebuild shop. 44 now.
    If you have the money/time to find one of them, you will have spent the same as changing to a 168 tooth flyweel. No "Missed It By That Much" problems and the same needed course of action for 168.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2011
  10. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 36,009

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

     
  11. saeger
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 115

    saeger
    Member

     
  12. Engine man
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,480

    Engine man
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Why not drill it? What do you have to lose? Line the starter up, tighten the one bolt down, use a bit that fits snugly in the hole to mark the center, remove the starter, drill with the correct size tap drill and tap the hole.

    I'm surprised nobody's made a jig that bolts in the staggered holes.

    You could make a bushing to hold the tap drill straight in the starter.
     
  13. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,630

    badshifter
    Member

    Lots of time, a drill bit, a tap, cutting fluid, bolts, shims, maybe a block, buying a new starter that may or may not work. Just that stuff.
     
  14. Engine man
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,480

    Engine man
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    He has the starter and bolts. It won't take anywhere near as much time to drill and tap as it will to take it apart and replace the flywheel. I believe starter bolts are 7/16 and a 3/8 drill will work for a tap drill. Even if he screws up the new hole, the originals are still there so he's no worse off than he started with.
     
  15. dave lewis
    Joined: Dec 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,381

    dave lewis
    Member
    from Nampa ID

    Lots of bad info being tossed about here....
    First of all, the powerglide bellhousing will not take a 168 tooth flywheel..only room for the 153.
    Second, the straight across starter bolts are for the 153 tooth flywheel.. ( staggered bolts for 168 )
    Third, the starter mounting bolts are 3/8-16 thread.
    AND they are pilot drilled almost 1/2" into the block so the knurled portion of the bolt will register tight on both the block and starter housing.
    Easy fix if you are sure the block has straight across holes and you have a 153 tooth flywheel...Use a #3664 starter.. Or an aftermarket mini starter, just use the set of holes that put the starter closest to the oil pan.
    Good luck
    Dave
    I re-read the orig. post...
    Goodson brand # sdj-1.. drilling jig / fixture
    This will allow you to drill the inner hole , you can do it with the engine still in the car.
    Maybe your local engine guy has one you can borrow or rent ??
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2011

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