Flathead wont restart??

ok..i have dual 97s(48 jets/65 powr valves) on an Edmunds Custom intake.stock 239..its in time runs great down the road,revs perfect everything..well after i run it it wont restart all the time with out turning it over a bunch of times.it will fire and soon as you pump the gas it shuts off..it like its flooded.you put it on the mat that doesnt help..i dont see any gas dripping in the carbs after you shut it off..but when you look thru the ****erflys the intake looks saturated with gas..after it evaporates it will start up..so my question is does anyone know where gas could be leaking thru the carb into the intake??i dont see any gas leaking down??
thanks

 

Hey, ask Terry (X-techman). He knows EVERYTHING!.... Check your fuel pressure, 97's like low pressure, like 2 - 2.5 pounds. Also, check fuel level, not float level.

 

97's. Any history on them? Did you rebuild them?

6.5 pvs maybe a little much for a dual carb. 4.5 with 51 jets.

 

ok thanks..we did that its 3 1/4..says 3 1/2 is the limit from what ive seen.mayb 3 1/4 is too much tho?

 

theyve been rebuilt..but bought that way.looked like a good job

 

Yeah, way too much. Good luck.

 

I know this is for a dual 94 setup but it helped me to understand vacuum and pvs. I'm not saying that is the problem but if it's running and you stomp it and it floods out. Maybe.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=577576

 

so do you think its pushing past the needle when its shut off?kinda wonderd that..

 

They for sure do. I know enough about them to get into trouble, there are much smarter guys than me on 97's. But my experience has shown me that they need low pressure, and the needle and seats aren't what you are used to. You really should check float/fuel level too. The leverage on the float arm to the needle and seat makes float level a little tricky. Thats why you should check fuel level as well. You can take the top off and check the level.

 

ok thanks..i know we have the float level low.but i need to check the fuel level and see.i guess i need to make some gaskets to shim up the fuel pump..thanks

 

I have 2- 97's and run fuel pressure at 2. After it has been run I don't dare touch my gas pedal on restart. As long as I don't touch the gas until it fires I'm OK.

 

thats a very good pt..my Dad was telling me i was pumping it to much..the thing is even with not pumping it at all it will fire then shut right off..then after a few times it will fire and idle up then i can rev it..

 

the va***e on my intake is plugged..i have a crab dist on the motor.. va***e being plugged off in the intake a problem?

 

Should still run. Vacuum is for the vac advance. But I'm sure you already know that.

 

Lower your floats a bit more, you are likely flooding out caused by perculation from heat and this great new gas they sell us. Smell your oil on the dipstick, if it smell like gas, its probably heating, expanding, overflowing and doing it again till the residual pressure from the fule pump has emptied all the gas in the line/s into the carbs and boiled it out.

Conventional wisdom for flooded is hold WOT while cranking to clear puddled gas. Can you see down the carbs and see wet gas on the throttle plates?

 

thanks,yeah thats what i thought.like that thread you posted i was looking thru it seemed they were talking late distribs.

 

the plates look a lil wet but there doesnt seem to be dripping.but what you said seems to be happening.its puddling in the intake.im gona lower the pressure and see if that helps.mayb lower the float a lil more.just didnt want to get to low

 

Stock dizzy's will run well. Start with your vac advance all the way out. Least resistance, then screw it in a turn and run around the block. Keep doing it till it feels right. Well once you get vacuum to it.

Crabs were the racers preference.

 

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_engines_distr-timing.htm

Did it run on one carb okay?

 

If you are running a stock feul pump and if it is a repop then you must take it apart and put an old diaphram spring from an original feul pump in it which will give you lower pressure. The repop feul pumps mostly cause this problem.
If you have a feul pump pressure regulator you should run no more than 2 PSI.
If your carbs have an acellerator pump adjustment on them you can adjust for less stroke.
If you've got dual carbs only one should have an operating choke blade.

Lot of IFs here.

 

thanks for the link..i never ran it on one carb.im thinking of unhooking one tho and seeing how it goes

 

I would check/regulate your fuel pressure, set your float, and then if it's still flooding out I'd look at the pv's or leaks.

97's pv's aren't activated by vacuum like the 94's so they may not be your problem. I'm not as familiar with 97's as I am with 94's.

 

thanks, thats the direction im going now..prob be next week before i get time to do it.

 

10hrs work + 10 hours car + 4 hours sleep = 24 hours

sorry for my confusion on pv's between 97/94s. vacuum is key though....

 

haha..it was like that for 6months building it..i have to fit my wife in there somewhere..lol.

 

Ha Ha.. me too. Glad she has a good understanding of me. Got to love her!

 

I had a nearly identical problem with two 97's (both with choke valves). I installed a cheap low pressure electric fuel pump (2.5 PSI) so I could check the float/inlet valve operation with the carb tops off, a low pressure gauge in the fuel block, and a Mr Gasket fuel pressure regulator. I removed the carb tops and set the fuel level, not the float level, at 15/32", and it ran great. The next morning it wouldn't start - no fuel pressure at the gauge. It turned out that both floats were dropping too far into the bowls - both had dents in the bottom, where they rest on the raised cast bar, from people pushing them into the bowl while they tried to adjust the fuel level without removing the floats. The inlet valves were getting ****ed open at very low fuel levels and wouldn't close. At 0 PSI, the junk regulator would stick closed, so no fuel and no start. I soldered little br*** strips to each float bottom to adjust the drop to about 1/8", modified the adjusting screw in the regulator to get it function at very low pressure (1.5 to 3.0 psi), sync'd the carbs, and it runs SUPER with no flooding and no starting problems. It seems to have been a combination of two problems - the junk regulator not admitting fuel at the start up (especially when this new fuel has evaporated from the float bowl - it happens really fast in a hot carb), and badly bent up old floats causing sticking inlet valves and flooding. I've order 2 new replacement floats. Set both accelerator pumps to the short summer stroke.

 

48 jets are too rich for a stock motor. I'd try 42s.

 

Some good advice here on floats, etc. Don't monkey around with shimming the pump to try to lower pressure, use a good regulator and a good gauge and keep it down to no higher than 2,0 psi.
The link Saxon provided about crab dist. is good info. Note that the vac*** in this case doesn't advance the dist further, it operates a vacuum BRAKE which without vacuum will slow the spark advance and make the motor sluggish. Either remove the piston and spring on the brake or get some vacuum to it! Dist. that looks like a diving bell and has the number "11A" stamped on the face of the cam on the wide side has the best advance curve.
Dave

 

Some thing you may want to try.If you have 12 volts and a 12volt coil and matching resister.If you get a two terminal solinode one is for coil wire for running and the other is just for starting,giving more power for starting.I have a 8ba 2-97s and when i first got car it would NOT start when hot. I did solinode change and also found a .5 ohm resister under dash that wasn,t remove when going to 12 volt.When ford went to 12 volt all car had them.