Questions for a painter

I like using Dupont Centari Enamel ,I can pull off a good job ,But always have to cut.Mixing ratio is 8 to 1 according to the can.Whats the proper mix for you professionals ...............

 

I would think that the mixing instructions on the can should get you pretty close.

 

It really doesnt ,Im wondering what else to try ,I always end up thinning or adding while painting,I keep getting peel.I can cut a straight color ,Mettallics are harder,I just did a door and Im cutting it,Paint pattern was perfect but too peely.Im wondering what others thin to..

 

I used to have problems with orange peel when using centari. My problem turned out to be the gun I was using. I was using a Binks, can't remember which model now, but I switched to a Devilbiss. That solved almost all of my problems.

More info might help, temp and humidity can wreak havoc on painted finish.

 

every paint will leave orange peel, I have been painting for over 20yrs and orange peel is always going to present, nature of the beast, stick with the can s 8 to 1 and add reducer to what you need to get the desired flow. temp and humity will play a big part on the final result.

 

What brand / model spray gun and size needles are you using ?

 

I waited for the perfect day ,Humidity none and temp was in reducer level and 1.6 gun and adjusted right.............A sharpe cobalt ............Hlvp .

 

Try adding 2 parts reducer, increasing your air flow, and backing off a little on your paint flow on the gun. Sometimes reducing the fan pattern down to a smaller coverage will help too.

 

I used to paint w/centari for a living in the eighties. We allways thinned it at least an extra 10%. Allways go w/ the slowest possible reducer for the ambient temp. Retarder can help. Centari does not flow much, you have to lay it on the way you want it to look. If you can ditch the HVLP and go to a old style high pressue gun you'll get better results. HVLP's dont atomize the paint as well as high pressure guns. They're ok when you're spraying poly paints because they dry slower and flow out more.

 

And just so you klnow, don't worry about humidity...that's only a problem with lacquer. In fact, my best Centari paint jobs were when it was a bit cooler, and humid/rainy!
Slows dry time, and keeps the dust down!

 

Hey,

'been so long since I've shot Centari I forget, and in truth, I was probably eyeballin' it, but I started with DuPont's fastest reducer for the first coat & followed with their slowest for the last pass. I'd sometimes knock up the mix with some retarder on hot days for good flow. A Binks #7 with a 36 SD tip with 55-60 lbs. @ the gun will throw a solid 10'' wet spray pattern. You must adjust both the fluid & fan for a full wet spray pattern, otherwise you'll wind up with "fuzzy'' passes that can result in ''peel'' or light coverage. Bad tiggering, too much pressure & too far away from the surface of the job can also result in too much peel.

The cut & buff urethane finishes used today were invented so housewives & boy scouts could make a living as painters

" All great truths begin as blasphmies "

 

The hardener is a chemists tool, that 8to1 thing is the rule.
The reducer is your tool, to get it to do what you want.
When the VOC thing came in the only thing that really changed was the Instruction sheet.
Some of the old sheets were 8 to 1 to 6, with 6 being reducer.
So... I usually spray a horse trailer 8-1-2, 2 coats.
and cars 8-1-4 with 3 coats.
but reducer is your tool, and I second the deal about using the highest temp reducer you can stand, it keeps the surface "open" longer and allows solvents to flash better.