I have a 1964 Galaxie with the 289 auto... Im having problems understanding how to get the carb to run right...Im used to fuel injection as thats what I grew up with...so playing with carbs is new to me... Well I have starting/idleing issues.. I had to replace the plastic fast idle piece behind the hot air choke.. and dont really know how to adjust the fast idle...so I can get car started but have to keep pressing the gas alittle to keep car running...right now the choke line is three dashes towards firewall for richness.. Second when car warms up the ****erfly is wide open and the engine runs like ****..it pops and acts like it wants to die...if I start closing the ****erfly the rpms pick up and idles nice..If I adjust idle screw to where it idles ok its way off the dashpot... third I was curious on the diaphram...is it supposed to jump back to original position or slowly go back? right now its slow on returning to original position
I call vacuum leak..... When it's warm at idle if you slowly choke it (manually) do the rpm's come up? Or you could spray carb cleaner around the base of carb and intake and see if the rpm's come up. Check base gasket, all vacuum fittings and hoses. Oh, check timing (points etc. if it has em) as well. You should know that's right before you diagnose other stuff.
Start your search for the vacuum leak. A can of carb cleaner with a nozzle and a GENTLE spray should pinpoint the problem area.
tried the carb cleaner....didnt find any spots to where the rpm increased...tried pcv valve..etc..hoses all around base of carb and spacer...
the air breather lets out alot more smoke than I think there should be...but when i pulled up the pcv there was good vacuum...so dont know... about that...
If the choke opens too soon, the car will stumble as it has not been allowed to warm up to the point the fuel will become suspended in the intake air charge. If the choke opens and the engine is sufficiently warmed (also considering the heat riser valve is operating correctly), you have a lean running condition. Are the carb idle circuits balanced properly? Do you have a basic vacuum gauge? The small nylon piece you replaced has an adjustment screw to regulate fast idle cam and choke plate operation. It has to be adjusted correctly. The dashpot is adjusted so as not to interfere with normal curb idle but to extend when the throttle lever pulls away from it (acceleration) but allows the lever to return somewhat slowly to prevent stalling when coming to a stop (the higher idle is used to counter act the torque converters energy to try and stop the engine).
If she is blowing smoke (crankcase emissions) through the oil filler cap, most likely the PCV System is not operating properly and needs to be serviced. Does the valve rattle when shaken? Does your system have a ****** at the rear of the intake that tubing and valve attaches to?
After the vacuum leaks and choke openings, look at a fuel filter, pump, or dirty gas. The top of these carbs set off pretty easy. You can clean out the bowl and check the jets as a last resort. good luck,
well everything im trying to deal with is when the car is completly wrmed up and im getting a lean condition....since I restrict the air coming in and it runs better.... Where do I start to fix this first.... I do have a vacuum gauge...
Replace the carb/manifold gasket. If you have power brakes, disconnect the hose going to the booster and place your thumb over the end of the hose. If the engine speeds up, you could have a booster issue, leaking hose or connection. I agree you likely have a good sized vacuum leak somewhere.
since thats cheap I was going to try that too... no booster...only vacuum lines is to the pcv and the distrib...
ok when I start the car its around 19 on vacuum...as it warms up it drops a little to like 17...the needle bounces a little almost one division...step on gas and goes to around two then its back up where it belongs.. the two idle adjustment screws are all the way in now..the points are updated to electronic...couldnt see the marks on the crank so dont know what the timing is at...I pugged into the hose that goes to the pcv..then left pcv open
1. Set the timing (with a timing light) to the correct spec. 2. Using a vacuum gauge, set the Air/Fuel mixture screws for maximum vacuum at idle. 3. Adjust the idle speed screw so that the engine idles around 650 to 800 RPM in Neutral. 4. Being that you live in a warm climate like Texas, You should adjust the choke to one of the leaner settings. It may be a good idea to replace the PCV valve and fuel filter if you haven't already done so. After following these steps, if there aren't any vacuum leaks or ignition system problems, the car should run great...
As has been said, first and foremost, you need to make sure that the timing is correct. If the carb has been sitting for a long time, you need to take it apart or have it rebuilt. There might be crud in the jets or p***ages restricting fuel flow. You should be able to get a carb kit for about 20 bucks. It's best to dis***emble and soak it in a cleaner but you can do a reasonable job with carb cleaner and an air compressor to blow out all of the p***ages. The kit will have ***embly diagrams. The most important thing is to follow the instructions on all the settings. Because of today's lousy gas, you might need to install larger jets.
Do you men the idle mixture screws? They should be balanced @ approx 1 1/2 to 2 turns out. If bottomed , the carb is too lean. If you have installed something like PERTRONIX, it changes basic timing. You will have to get under the car and wipe the balancer off until you see the marks on the outer ring. There should be a intake manifold ****** to attach the gauge. Do not disable PCV during the test.
1 did this carb have the water spacer under the stock carb ? its the heat for the choke system. it sounds kinda like a timing issue also have you turned the dist while you were working it ?
Try between the intake manifold and head too. Make sure that the distributor vacuum advance isn't leaking.
I will mark the crank so I can check the timing...what should it be on the 289? and do I check with or without vacuum to distributor ....I sprayed everywhere on intake manifold and carb with carb cleaner and found no difference...I'll try to find another access on the intake to use for the vacuum...I have the intake spacer only for the hot air choke and pcv valve...
Rule of thumb on FORD... Start @ 6 BTDC and tune from there. This initial setting will give you basic timing. Timing is set with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. Curb idle should not be over 600/650 RPM. You can fine tune advance later to get better performance.
well I tried to set a 6 and then on next start up never could see the mark even though it ran better...Ill try again another day...lol
well started it up cold...choke was opening to fast so had to richen that. and adjust idle... got it warmed up tried to check timing never saw the mark.. finally found it no more room to move so tried to restab it...think I went the wrong way and wouldnt start..then battery started to drain from all the startin so had to quit..i had vacuum off the distributer i plugged that up with my vacuum gauge and at one time was readin 7 but then as the timing mark got closer the vacuum went up and was stable just didnt have enoungh movement with the hard fuel line in the way...so will try another day..it started raining finally also... the square diaghram has a leak also and doesnt want to pump fuel into carb for cold start with pedal...I have to manually pump it and then jump in car to start...
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