I have three 'B' blocks...only one has a crank and main bearing caps and it has a big crack down the outside of one cylinder!! I'm hoping I can piece together a 'good' short block out of the three. I would like to convert the babbit bearings in the mains and the rods to inserts, if at all possible. Also want to use a pressurized oiling system. I'm willing to bet there are a number of threads here that covers the subject. I've been looking for a couple of weeks now and can't find anything useful. Any ***istance locating the threads or outright information would sure be greatly appreciated. I'm planning on a highboy 'A' roadster with a 'warm' banger, if I can piece together a running engine.
Search: www.snydersantiqueauto.com for "B" bearings, B-6331 for mains & also new steel rods with inserts. Next would be to find an auto machine shop that still does align-boring to prepare the block. Pat
Thanks for the link. The blocks are being 'boiled' out this week. Next up is to have them magnafluxed to see if any of the two are rebuildable. I've already talked to a machine shop in town that can do any machining necessary...including resleeving the cylinders. I'm planning on buying an aftermarket counterbalanced cranksaft and rods once I know I have a rebuildable block.
Hey thanks for the info folks. Is there a definitive book on hot rodding the 'B' Motor? I have several on building flathead V-8's, but can't come up with anything on the 'B' motor.
This is a start anyway. Didn't realize these things were so 'complicated'!!! Have turned wrenches most of my life, but never on anything this old. Is definately going to be a learning experience. Would be great to have some sort of a 'road map'!!
There is another approach for rods and bearings. Eubanks Pattern has aluminum and 4130 "B" rods available that take current bearings and fit directly on a "B/C" crank. He also has a ductle iron crank available, counter weighted "C" style. Pretty strong, someone tore the center main web from the block and the crank bent 1/8" but did not break. As for main bearings, the chevy rod bearing 2.125 OD seems to work but could require decking off the bottom of block and offsetting (PITA). The Nissan or Perkins diesel is better 2.147 OD cleans up better and no offsetting required. I currently have a "A" motor going together with a modified Eubanks crank and Saturn bearings. The machining has been challenging and it all fits. For oiling, look around for a modified Flathead pump with pressure relief. That way you do not have to do the external pressure relief plumbing. Best of Luck, PM me if you want more info, J
Also, from what I have read, the Pontiac rods have to have the big end sides built up with a shoulder surface like the babbitted rods, otherwise side clearance is too big. Braze or TIG and machining required. Definitely not a bolt in.
As of this morning, this bearing thing became a moot point! Got a call last evening from the shop that boiled out and magnafluxed the two 'good' blocks. Big No-go!!! One has two cracks between the int & exh valves. The other has a long crack in the webbing between #2 & #3 cylinders...and a crack between an int & exh valve!!! I'll be picking them up this weekend. I'll have to see how bad they are. I've heard of someone drilling and tapping 'plugs' to fix the cracks on flathead V-8's, Otherwise it's back on the 'hunt' for a servicable block. At least I have most of the other pieces. And, a block to use as a 'dummy' for the rest of the buildup.
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