Hang tight we'll see what it looks like on Sunday. $130 is a lot of coin. I don't think I spent that much for the fluid damper one on the truck. We'll mock some stuff up on Sunday. Dang, I shoulda put the puller in the van.
Cool build, inspiration for my 200 sitting at my dads waiting to be freshened up. Post a video when you get it rolling
No worries about the puller, it's all figured out now thanks to you's guys and your advice. We'll be needing to mock up plenty.... my alternator is on the wrong side, damn, now I need a bracket to mount to the damned block, 2 brackets I think. . Problem solved, I reread some of the stuff on this thread and tried to remove those 4 bolts on that dampner. Turns out that the 3rd groove is simply an a/c pulley attached to the harmonic balancer, thus I now have only 2 grooves. I attached the fan, put in the radiator and voila! I had good space and the fan spun freely. Thanks for the research. Dude, I have learned so much on this build that it makes my squash spin. Sometimes easy, sometimes frustrating. But as I close in on the end... it was all worth it just for the learning aspect and for the friends I made along the way. Refer to my "spin off" threads that I posted as problems came up.
I solved the alternator problem, yes it was on the wrong side. I feel like a douche. Well actually my friend Tim solved it with his metal working magic. He measued some stuff out and took my alternator back to his shop and made me this bitchin bottom bracket, I then went over to the local parts store and bought a chrome universal top bracket. The end is almost here. I can feel it
Working to solve a couple of things on this for Mr. Blades. The new engine has a Holley 350 # 0-7448 installed on it. The linkage kit is intact on the firewall, 62 Ford Fairlane 170-6. The thought is to transfer the pull from the throttle linkage on the firewall to the carb at it's 90 degree angle using a bell crank ( Mr. Gasket #55011523) to send the pull to the side. and a cable (MG # 7204127) to pull it. Anyone use a bell crank in this way before? Speedway has these at a fair rate. Thanks for all replies.
I haven't used that bellcrank set up before, but I think I would be scrounging a gas pedal and carb bracket from just about any fox bodied car instead. Even earlier Mavericks and Granadas have simple pedals, cables and brackets that would make life a hell of a lot easier.
My 63 Ranchero has a cable setup that came from a Maverick I think. It uses a mount that attaches to the side of the block and the carb base. The gas pedal is likely from the same Maverick. It works quite well on my Carter YF carb.
I'm picking up great info from thisw thread as well! Thanks for all your postings. Being new to Fords, this thread is actually helping me diagnose a driveability issude with my Falcons 170 carb, which I had rebuilt, but has a weird surge issue until wide open throttle is acheived. Disconnected the vacuum advance (realized now about the distributor from this thread, thanks!) but it did not help. Going to try to find a replacement unit for ity when I figure out which one is needed. Again, thanks for posting up this great thread! Dale
Sorry, I hadn't gone back to this thread until today. It so happens I'm building a transmission crossmember for my 60 Ranchero as the 63 Ranchero I mentioned had an unfortunate winter meeting with a guardrail. I'm moving my entire drivetrain over to that 60 Ranchero. I'll be putting the carb on soon as I have the crossmember issue nearly cleared up and will be hooking everything up under the hood. I'll get a picture of my setup posted as soon as possible. I know I have an extra throttle cable mount for the motor.
Here is my carb and throttle cable on the 200 now in my 60 Ranchero. The carb is a Carter YF that was originally on a Maverick 250. The cable setup was on my 63 Ranchero when I got it. I converted this to electronic ignition using a Duraspark system from a 75 Comet I scrapped(same as a Maverick). It helped a lot on the other 200 I had in the 63 Ranchero. That motor would idle quite rough with a points setup. Once the electronic ignition was in it, it smoothed out and was more responsive too. I got as high as 26 mpg with old 200 - at normal highway speeds like 70 mph. I run 3.55 gears in a Maverick 8". I'm hoping this 200 will do even better.
I seriously need to get this damned car running. Been stuck for weeks on the damned carb issue, driveshaft, and that bell crank housing bolt. It's not about driving it no more. Just want to get it running so's I can sell it. Anyone out there that can help if I just buy the stupid crap from Lokar? I don't want to attempt to mickey mouse it no more, just ends up costing more money that I don't have. should I just buy a damned 1V carb and put that crap back on?
I've been very busy lately, It rained a lot and flooded a lot of basements. I have been on 24 hour call for the last 5 days and have gotten maybe 12 hours of sleep. I check in to see whats up but end up getting a call and going back out again. I have your fuel line all bent up and flared, I can drop it off by you so you can at least check that off the list, Where should I leave it? The rest of this week looks like it's going to be tough as far as hours go but I'm in and out of the city 3 or 4 times a 15 hour day.
I hear that. I got 13" of water in the basement and spent my days off throwing out stuff. DAMNED RAIN! I know your busy. I think I should just simplify the matter and get a 1v carb so that throttle is back in the same positon. Al said I should just get a gas pedal cable from a newer car. I don't know? But, he said he's coming by on Saturday after I get home from work about 4:30 to look at it. I'm just frustrated. Nothing is going right.
I know the Lokar pedal, cable kit and bracket will work, that is what is on my truck. The problems are that we still may have to make a hold off bracket to mount on the valve cover or the carb, it's all billet, and it's north of $200 in parts, maybe even $250. So this is why we have been trying to use a common pedal or the existing throttle linkage. I know money is tight, So we're trying to avoid the high dollar gold chain parts. You can still get the thing running without the linkage, the Drive shaft, coolant lines, fuel lines and distributor still need to be dropped in. Ask Al if the oiling system was primed or if he thinks you could do that easily enough, I'd hate to see you fire this thing up and have no oil pressure. You would be screwed then.
This weekend sucked donkey tits big time!!! Finally got the transmission crossmember on and lo and behold... the yoke of that fuckin c4 didn't fit in the tunnel! Why? because it has that stupid balancer. YAY! I live for these moments. On top of that, the Holley350cfm carb will not accept that c4 as it has AOD. Take a look at the pics so you can see where once the trans was in place, the fan is up on the radiator. I refuse to give up on this car. My solutions are change that pulley to a single groove as I am only using one belt anyhow and that should give me clearance. Located a rebuilt Fordomatic. Putting that back in. I know, I know...everyone hates a Fordomatic, but it's original to the car so I'll just use it. It's like I'm racing no how. At this point all I want is the car to run. This car has fought me every step of the way, but it will cruis before winter.
Well as you may know from my other threads, the yoke problem has been solved by a hammer. I simply removed the damned balancer with a buncha whacks. But I noticed that my sway bar links were shot. The bushings were bad. Looked in my Fairlane catalogues and decided to try Autozone. SCORE! In stock. $6.49 each with all the hardware. I'll be changing those so I can I put my oilpan back on. My distributor wont sit right so I took off the oilpan to see whats up with oil pump. Luckily I have a new extra one and GMC Bubba sent me both size shafts when he rebuilt my distributor. Hopefully this weekend it will all be done. Check out the pics of the swaybar links. Not much left to do but the pedal, trans lines, distributor connect, 1 fuel line, and fluids. Oh yea, I sanded theat swaybar down and coated with black engine enamal...looks good.
Forgot to mention that I need to thank Francisco Plombero for the time spent in my garage helping (teaching) (doing). Need Louvers for the pedal and all the dudes that offered up advice. I literally built this motor by asking questions, reading answers and trying to follow. Getting it run... thats a different story, but we got it done!
09/14/2011 Okay guys the motor is finally done. Running and purring like a happy kitten. I know I kinda left this thread hanging, but I was so busy trying to get it right. At last I minute had to change out the Mustang 1wire 150amp as it was just too much for the car. It was screaming and causing a draw. Ended up using a Chevy 60amp. The Holley 2bbl turned out fine and is finely tuned using all the specs I got from Bubbas Speed shop when he rebuilt my distributor. I started out with the Duraspark II, but ended up having that rebuilt and converted to points with the specs for a 67 model year. The Duraspark and the module involved too much splicing and I'm not one for cutting wires. Francisco Plombero helped me install the Lokar linkage and the 73 Maverick accelerator pedal that I got from NeedLouvers. So now the bellcrank stuff is gone. The shift linkage all had to be modified (look at pics), basically cut the original rod and elongated it and had to make a new detent as the one from the 78 C4 wasn't being accepted by the linkage or the trans tunnel. The 200/c4 combo was perfect for the driveshaft and the driveshaft didn't need to be modified at all. I did have to use the yoke that came with the c4 because the one from the Ford-O-Matic simply didn't fit in the C4. The one I recieved had this stupid balancer looking thing on it and I simply knocked it off with a hammer so that the yoke would be able to fit in the tunnel. I used my original oil pan because of my swaybar, had to modify the bend on the oil pick up. I saved all the packages for the stuff I used so that I can buy them again as needed, things such as the belt, dist cap and rotor, wires, etc.... Since it was kind of a far fetched build, I used a lot of stuff from different years. If your doing something similar and need part numbers that worked for me, PM me and I'll be glad to help out. BTW... I installed gauges under my dash so that I ended not using stock oil pressure and temp switches.. proved to be a blessing because my draincock took a shit on the 2nd day I had the car out and if it hadn't been for the gauge, I would have never known that the temp had hit 250+. I was able to pull over and save myself from a cracked block. INSTALL GUAGES!! Thanks for following this thread, and thanks to all the dudes that offered up advice and parts. Big ass thanks to Francisco Plombero for coming over to help lead a blind man out of the darkness.
I forgot.. heres what it looked like in April Last three are of the new motor as I worjed on it. Notice the pile f modern stuff that was pulled of it never to be used again. Kinda like backdating my motor
The Jalopy Journal
