Fe takes long time to warm up?

I have an unknown year fe motor that was transplanted into my 59 f100. It runs pretty good once warm but it takes like 20 minutes in socal climate? Is there a common cause for this? It has stock 4bbl manifold with 600cfm edelbrock. Stock ignition mechanical fan (no fan clutch). Elec choke works. I let it warm up for 5-10 minutes and it still backfires through the carb a few times until it gets warm, then it is fine? Any advice appreciated.

Thanks

Fonzi

 

Does it have a thermostat? I would guess it doesnt..

 

I will check!

Thanks.

 

Good question.. The 390 in my 59 takes forever as well and I know i have a thermostat cause I installed it.. I have the same set-up you do as well (except electric choke) so I'd like to know as well..

 

If one compared the calibrations of the 625 CFM Carter AFB used as factory equipment on Ford FE engines with the calibrations of the 625 CFM Carter AFB used for aftermarket sales; one will find the calibrations TOTALLY different.

When Federal Mogul purchased Carter, Carter had no 600 CFM carburetor to compete directly with the 600 CFM Holley. A decision was made to issue a new part number for the existing 625 CFM aftermarket carburetor, and market it as a 600.

I have never had the cold natured issue with a Carter AFB (with Ford calibration) on an FE, and have had several.

Jon.

 

Yeah,
I was wondering about the carb. The Holley that was on it was fubared and I had the Edelbrock on the shelf....

 

The exhaust runners under the carb may be packed full of carbon. Have you had the intake off? and made sure they are open? No warm air under the carb would make it run bad when cold.
I'm probably way off, fore I have never owned an FE ford.

 

I have a 406HP in a '63 and it does takes forever to warm up. Check the coolant and make sure it is the proper mixture of anti-freeze and water. If you suspect anything wrong get a professional opinion. Those FE blocks aren't cheap any more. I saw one sell for $2,200. just for a worked over (dipped and inspected) block.
Normbc9

 

Are you running antifreez mix, or plain water?

 

I have a 390 in my 53 ford coupe and it takes a long time also to warm up. Try bumping the timing up a bit to overcome the cold lean condition. Worked for me

 

Thanks guys. I will look into all these things

 

I just changed my 390 to electronic ignition via Pertronix conversion and that made all the difference in the world. Starts quickly, warms up quickly. Nothing like a nice hot spark like an arc welder going off in the cylinders.

 

Is the fast idle linkage set up correctly? My 352 only needs a min or two in the summer. Then id check to see if the choke is working correctly. Then the t stat and then check all the tune up stuff.

 

What is the fast idle linkage supposed to be set up like? All I know about the choke is that if I hit the gas before firing the truck it will idle high until I hit the throttle again.

 

I would say t-stat. Could be stuck open also.

 

I run a 50/50 anti-freeze and distilled water mix. I use a Litmus paper with a color chart and test all of my radiator's twice a year. I only change the coolant mix when the acidity starts to increase. I also use an additive that helps to neutralize any formations of living things called NALCOOL. We use that in our fire engines too. We still have a 1953 MACK with the original Thermodyne END gas engine that has only had ywo full sets of water system hoses changed out in that time. It has 166,000. miles on the odometer.
Normbc9

 

My 352 fires up with the manual choke at half pull. I let it warm up, it hits 170 quick and never goes higher. Mine has a bone stock 2 barrel, but my dist was worked over and its has a pertronix on it. Was my buds daily for a couple years in California. No problems what so ever, they do seem to **** the fuel though

 

my 66 tbird 428 fe starts easy idles and is very drivable nothing special just basic maintenance new eldebrock and stock fuel pump. it also has a pertronix. like them a lot

 

Fonzi,
Are we talking engine temp or being cold natured.

I am with Jon, drive-ability is all dependent on carb setup on any engine. On my last FE it ran fine straight out of shoot with a 600 Holley but when the Holley gummed up on me I changed over to a 750 edeklbrock that I had on the shelf it was as cold natured as the devil until the changed the way the carb was set up.

I nearly always block the heat risers on my intakes BTW. Someone is going to say that is a bad thing but I just always have.

 

Drove my galaxie to work today 352 with a edlebrock electric choke set the choke up cold ****erfly just barely closeing pump pedal once and start let run for a min or two . My car with a thermostat never runs over 160 and will break up under acceleration until it is totally warm.

 

Bad/good depends on what one is trying to do.

My 390 is not blocked, manual choke, Carter carbs, warms in couple of minutes.

Pontiac is blocked, won't warm completely for about 30 minutes.

Jon.

 

My bone stock 352 takes a short time to warm up and never over heats. I still have a problem with take off. Even after it warms up I have to feather the gas to take off or will cough. It has the 2 barrel autolite carb. Not sure what to do to fix the stumble.

 

"My bone stock 352 takes a short time to warm up and never over heats. I still have a problem with take off. Even after it warms up I have to feather the gas to take off or will cough. It has the 2 barrel autolite carb. Not sure what to do to fix the stumble. "


This has to do with accererator pump shot. I'll bet if you look close you will be able to move the throttle with out getting any squirt out of the pump. Adjust the lever so any movement of the throttle will produce a squirt. This will solve your problem!!
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