Battery Cable question here

I ran a set of 4 gauge cables to the trunk where i installed my battery and now it when i turn her over all i am getting is a sluggish slow roll.What the hell have i done here. Thanks for the help

 

Check for proper end connects. Ground especially. You did not say what type of engine you have. You make need to upgrade to 1 or 2 gauge wire if you have high compression or a supercharger.

 

Way to small cable size for that lenght of run. You should have probably O gauge wire there.

 

4 gauge is way to small for anything longer than about 18 or 24" and I'm guessing your cable to the starter is longer than that.


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Dump this one in the can.Believe it of not ...but i have bought to batteries today and i'll be damned to hell if they both turned out to be bad. A buddy just showed up with a load tester to prove it

 

Thanks for the heads up on the wire gauge. Will replace in the morning

 

Being a welder, I used welding cable (the lightest ones) from my trunk to starter, AND to frame ground!
Also make sure you have the correct "cranking power" from a fully charged battery!--Don

 

0 or 1 gauge wire if the battery is in the trunk.
Buying from a welding supply house is cheapest.

 

You can also gat that cable and the ends at a Tractor Supply Store TSC.

 

I have always used welding leads for the positve side also .I have had many tell me your not suppose to but i havent ever had any trouble .I also use the frame for the ground side with a star washer under the cable ends where they connect to the frame and it works fine ...

 

I agree 100% welding cable with the proper ends and properly connected are virtually bullet proof. I have also stated on one of these post before that welding cable and agood set of parrots beak clamps make the "Mother" of all jumper cables.

 

if you are building go straight to 3/o cable complete overkill but you will never suffer battery cable envy again. ran it on my tbird cranks just fine

 

I use welding cable too. The strands are finer and less likely to get brittle and break within the jacket.

I also make my own cable lugs using 1/2" copper tubing. Extra loose wire strands can be stuffed in to take up extra space. Also, a cheap pair of bolt cutters can be modified into an awesome crimping tool.

 

Ground straps are important as well. Engine block to frame,engine to firewall,and make sure that the battery ground (since you have it at the rear)is bolted solid on to the frame.

 

All good advice here, ...one other thing, if your cables are making a longer trip, (from boot to engine bay)....you need a battery with a good amount of cranking amps and when the cars out of action from week to week, hitch it up to one of those small, inexpensive, trickle charger/ maintainers. That way you won't have to wonder if it's fully charged when you hop in after it's been out of action for maybe a coupla weeks.

 

You should also solder the cable lugs! Crimping them may not be enough..Every car we build has soldered electrical connections and multiple grounds all over the car!

 

You said you ran cables from front to rear,you need to run your ground to frame in rear.Then make sure engine is grounded to frame.That is an awful long draw for a ground.

 

Running the battery ground directly to the block, regardless of location or length, is better than grounding to the frame. Copper wire has less resistance and is a better conductor than steel. The frame is really the least important item to ground; engine block first, body second, frame third. IMO