1941 Ford pickup - a little rougher then i remember.

There ya go.

Take good dimensions before you start cutting. Get them to me and I'll have the fellas at Manx Design throw you a print or two together. Always easier with a road map. I've done the chalk lines on the floor route more times than I can count and someone always manages to step in the wrong place and screw up the design.

 

As rough as you think that cab is a lot of guys have started with a lot less than you have. In some parts of the country your cab is considered to be in good shape. The replacement cab sounds like a good idea, but if you have some metal working and welding skills, $500 of steel and welding wire would go a long way on that cab and you can say that you did it yourself. Either way you go I hope you have fun with it and good luck.

 

Nobody's mentioned doing an S-10 frame swap. It's not a popular thing to do on this, a traditional board but I gotta be honest. If I had that floor-less cab, I'd be giving it some thought.

 

You got the truck for nothing so find you a good rolling ch***is you can pick up cheap and go from there.

 

You might consider buying one of the other cabs especially if it has a better floor, and some parts like garnish mouldings, instruments, doors/winders/latches/ seat riser etc etc etc.
I would also be looking for another frame.

It might be worth sitting on what you have for a little while to see what turns up, rather than launching headlong in and spending lots of money.

If you just score a hood, fenders and a ***le from this first haul, plus anything else that is still salvageable (you're in a better position to judge what's good) you've got a good start, better parts are out there, and can still be found for reasonable money, but will take more time.

I am also rebuilding a 41 pickup, so I will be following this one with interest.

Mart.

 

Yep, you ought to have it running in about 6 wks. Or you could not rush it and take a couple years. The main thing is do not stop. Good luck. Al

 

Im not going to lie, i looked on Craigslist to see if there were any ranger/s10 frames. But as soon as i did that i remembered.... TRADITIONAL... and realized that if im going to do it, i just well do it right.

Pork, i've got a buddy that has a 40 cab sitting in his garage that im going to take all the measurements off of (trace the bottom of the cab onto a piece of cardboard) that way i know everything is square.

Then when it comes to the frame, i've got one good frame rail that i can snip off, trace out on cardboard, then cut out of steel (plasma cutters are my friend) that way i have 2 exact pieces for the rear end. (at this point i may z the rear up just a little more so that the truck sits a little lower).

 

sREAT SCORE FOR THE PRICE! THAT HOOD IS SCHWEEEEET!

 

The only reason im even considering staying with my cab is just for the learning experience. And even if this cab ends up looking like complete *** when im done... it was free and then i'll drop the 500 to buy a new cab.

But if i wrap up a couple hundred in this cab plus my labor... i think i'll still be doing pretty damn good haha.

 

The hood looks awesome, but i almost like the looks of these trucks with the hood left off (full fenders and all, but with out the hood) that way your blower is sitting up above the rad just a little bit.

 

quick question for ya'll. Where could i find a front axle set up for my truck... the whole front suspension is missing off my truck. I've got a dozen model a I beams, but nothing newer. Would a newer car i beam axle work (newer as in early 40's)?

 

Same thing.

 

Would something like this swap under my truck then?

http://wichita.craigslist.org/pts/2448120046.html

 

Or is that going to be using the parallel leafs rather then the spring over style?

I know the 41 chevy we bought had parallel leafs and was dropped. that front seamed pretty simple.

But i like the older style with the spring over. Maybe i'll have to keep looking i guess.

 

You can use pretty much any axle from 37-48. The car axle should be close enough to the same width if not the same width to work. Any little difference can be overcome with wheel offset.

You shouldn't have any trouble finding a 40-46 truck axle though.

 

That craigslist axle should slide right in, as long as its for a car and not th truck axle. Ford went to the parallel springs on the trucks in '42.

 

I have a drilled orignal 40 axle - bought for 60 bucks they are petty easy to come by and new ones are avalible if you want a drop . Hey if youre not gonna use that hood we could do some trading

 

Awesome, thats great news guys. i'm going to call this guy and see if we can work out a deal. i really want to get the front end under it so i can see what all i need to do to the rear of the frame while building it.

 

You have a great project when you consider the end result - a 40-41 Ford p-up! You have a steel hood and rear fenders, hard-to-come-by items so you are way ahead in my thinking! Then factor in the "free" and you are golden!

If you have more time than money and access to the steel, I like your idea to repair the p*** frame rail. However, in my experience, you'll get half-way through the repair and then you find a decent frame! So, as was suggested, I would find a rolling, stock frame and go from there, selling off what you do not need. Westcott has a great diagram of the 35-40 frame that you should print out, post it on the wall, and refer to often. If you lived closer I have 3-4 frames for sale you could get by with, use as repair peices, use 2 to make 1, etc. Just make sure you get it all squared by the numbers so when you weld it up, you are spot on. I think I'm too far away for my frames to be of any use to you but there are also aftermarket repair pieces for your frame (but they are a bit pricey IMHO).

As for your cab, again, I think you are going about it the right way - finding perhaps a better cab to start off with and mix and match parts to complete a good one. There are patch panels available for the inner and outer door bottoms, cab corners, floor sections, cowl replacement pieces, back lower lip pieces, and inner windshield moldings are all available repop.

Just remember to think outside the box sometimes and solutions to problems will come to you. Come up with a good design/plan for your truck that will fit your budget and stretch your abilities so as to build on the learning process. But make it all reasonable as time and/or money will get to you, slow you down, and keep you from your goal.

I've posted a few pics of my 40 p-up project that's on the back burner until my avatar's engine issues are resolved. Notice the inner reinforcing boxing plates on the inside of the rear frame rails starting at the kickup going on back - a good idea for any kind of power beyond a flathead. FE is 32 Ford axle, Speedway 4-bar setup, DB, Monte Carlo PS, hot 4.3V6/5-speed, PB, heat defrost using a 46-48 Ford car unit, stock 40 std gauges, stock column w/40 std wheel, and AC hidden under the seat. Theme/look is late 50s/early 60s shop truck and I intend to drive it daily.

Good luck and keep us posted ....

 

Awesome, thanks for the pictures Tom. Im really leaning towards patching my current cab, just because i've got plenty of time and metal. Im going to hopefully strip the rest of the frame down by the weekend to see just how much damage there is. At that point i'll decide whether im better off buying another frame, or patching my current frame.

Anyone else that has pictures of their 40-41 feel free to post them up. I can always use more motivation! haha

 

My avatar was in a little better shape when I found it but not much. I really liked dealing with Northen Cl***ic Truck. Good people selling an excellent product.

 

Nailhead you are right I forgot that the jailbar truck had parrellel leaf springs. I have had a couple of those too. DOH

 

Well, unfortunately i was unable to put much time in last night. Had to go install a **** load of hand peeled pine log hand rails at my in laws cabin. But i did manage to get out there for 45 minutes last night.

Im hoping i did this right, ya'll can tell me what i should have done (keep in mind im by no means a good welder...yet.)





Started with some holes in the firewall. Not sure why they were there, but they were some nasty gashes. So i beat on them to straighten the lips then welded them closed.

 

Well, i havent been out to the shop much lately... With my birthday last weekend, then the 4th this past weekend, and it being flat out HOT outside.

So last night i decided to go get some body work done.



I fabbed up some cross members in the base of the cab to keep the cab square while im beating on it. threw it up on some saw horses and started sanding/hammering on the cab. The belt line across the back was pretty kinked and wavey, got it last night to where theres NO dents. then started cleaning out the cab corners.

After putting that square tubing in the cab, it kind of makes me want channel it (not quite to that extent, but i think it would look good channeled down. What are your guys' thoughts.

I jumped up in there to see if theres enough head room still and theres still plenty. Even after adding a seat. But i dont know if that amount of channel would be "practical" haha.

 

I like your enthusiasm.Keep it going and keep posting.

 

Here is my 40 Pickup build. Enjoy!
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=527407

 

Seat height is perfect