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Custom bumpers

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by salf100, Jun 29, 2011.

  1. salf100
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 431

    salf100
    Member

    Whats the best way to weld a steel bumper that will later get re-chromed? I want to mod my front bumper and remove the license plate reccess, but not sure on the best welding process and smoothing the welds out.
     
  2. damagedduck
    Joined: Jun 16, 2011
    Posts: 2,341

    damagedduck
    Member
    from Greeley Co

    i was to V-groove the ends & not grind any welds down-let the chrome shop do the finishing it's gonna cost ya alittle more but if ya grind it to low they'll have to build it up & grind it down anyway,
     
  3. CHUCK50DODGE
    Joined: Jun 21, 2011
    Posts: 338

    CHUCK50DODGE
    Member

    ^^^ what he said ^^^
     
  4. ChromePlaterJosh
    Joined: Feb 15, 2009
    Posts: 667

    ChromePlaterJosh
    Member

    TIG welds usually have the least amount of pitting. Pitting, or voids in the welds, are the single biggest issue with plating welded bumpers to look like they weren't welded. These pits have to be filled with either more welds, brazing, or soldering. Even the heaviest of copper plating will not fill all weld pitting.

    The actual type of steel the weld is made of is irrelivent as far as plating is concerned, as long as it isn't a stainless weld. Don't use stainless welds.

    The other big issue that would seem obvious is lining everything up correctly first.

    As stated earlier, do not grind down the welds unless you are awesome; almost everyone overgrinds them, and then it is a major pain ($) to get them level again.

    All straightening should be done before cutting or welding.
    If you are welding up mounting holes, make sure they are flush first. They are almost always slightly sunk in and if you weld them this way, it makes it a lot harder to straighten. This really goes back to making sure everything is lined up properly.
     
  5. '54Caddy
    Joined: Sep 11, 2009
    Posts: 985

    '54Caddy
    Member

    ChromePlaterJosh - Thats good info, thank you for sharing. I did not know you werent supposed to use stainless rod if you're going to plate it. whats the reason for that?
     
  6. Jimmy2s83
    Joined: Apr 25, 2010
    Posts: 100

    Jimmy2s83
    Member
    from Indiana


    I can answer that.
    Stainless will not allow the plating to adhere with conventional methods. It requires a special activator before being nickel striked.
    I have never worked with the activator required but from what I have been told, steel (ferrous materials) can not go through this process or at least shouldn't go through it.
    The reason being is that stainless steels contain a good amount of chromium in them which will not allow proper adhesion of other materials on to it as well.
    Most shops do not offer the plating of stainless as its a small market especially in the custom world.
     
  7. Mindover
    Joined: Jan 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,661

    Mindover
    Member
    from England

    I use gas welding and normal bodywork techniques to repair or modify bumpers. I have made a few as well. I will post some photos if I can find some.

    David
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2011
  8. '54Caddy
    Joined: Sep 11, 2009
    Posts: 985

    '54Caddy
    Member

    Thanks!
     
  9. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    I have some home made stainless headers that I took to the chrome shop just for polishing out. They told me they would also flash chrome them (just chrome, no copper or nickel) after polishing so they wouldn't yellow again. They didn't charge me extra for it and they came out great.
     

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