So I'm putting a patch panel in the ¼ of my 53 Chevy and found that the upper section is warped. So what I need is some advice on how to shrink it back down to where it is supposed to go. Here are some pics so you know what im talking about. The bulge without me pushing it in is about a 1/4 inch. Any help would be greatlyappreciated. Thanks Adam.
1: thanks for using our stuff! 2: some of this warpage can come many sources but lets look at 2 that i know about a: inherent stress in the panel when formed by chevy, when cutting the panel we have relived the panel and it has some memory of where it was or wants to go, yours seems like a severe case b: a very slight dent or tap of the rear bumper at the rear of the 1/4 panel can cause this stress leading us back to topic "a" c: stress caused by other damage dent on other side of car? rear tailpan/inner tailpan rusted/damage causing the rear of the car to sag or twist, ( more common then most guys think about) lets try putting the car back on the ground on 4 wheels and see if there is a change? if there is then i have more comments 3 after lookinf at photo 4/4 i like answer 2a i will be in the office most of tuesday morning 216-541-4585 the ems guy
I'd straighten some more of the damage in the rear part of the quarter, it might be pulling that portion out of alignment. If that doesn't work torch shrink it.
More info... The car is very solid other than the rocker and 1/4 with no rear end damage. I have also had the car on the ground with no chainge in the warp.
What I would try; Remove the center cleko. Start pinning it at the rear, and move forward with more pins to keep it flat. Then you will be correcting things at that front factory rounded bulge. Correcting means "moving the stretch" towards that bulge. There are plenty of random compound curves there to get things to lay together IMO. Maybe just me, but I would never do that much of a panel with the rear jackstands where you have them. In theory, with a ridgid 2 dr post car, it should be OK, but I still would use the stands under the axle.
Ok i will move the jackstands to that the car sits like it would be on the ground, and if it makes a differance the cleco is not pulling the bulge in. The new pannel and the old pannel line up very nice where the cleco is. Im just using the cleco to hold the pannel in the correct place when i take it out and adjust somthing then put the pannel back in. The bulge starts a few inches back from where the cleco is. Adam
What F&J said..I think as you are tacking...or cleco'n for fitment.... the replacement panel in a little at a time it will pull it in where it needs to go. It's not out as bad as you think..it just moved from removing the old bottom off
Yes I get that, but you have a bulge to the rear of the cleco and also in front of it. What I meant about removing it; is that after you remove it and then start pinning it at the very rear of the new panel, and keep working the stretch forward, then that old alignment hole should be off a little bit. if you leave it in, you can't move that rear bulge anywhere.
hey Adam, As I read the damage in this panel based on your photos I see some ''interesting things'' The right door has some old collision damage that looks as if it extended into the area of the quarter you cut out. Too, I see some some small dents in the quarter panel above your cutline. Either or both of these conditions may explane your panel misalignment issues. I'd remove the replacement panel, and straighten those dents, and place a couple good shrinks in the high areas above the cut line. Always finish bumping out all of the damage from a panel before you deside a shrink is what you need. If not, you may pull good, undamaged metal into the repair area, and create a *********** that will take hours to repair. Refit the panel and check its' alignment. If a shrink is necessary, either a torch, hammer & dolly or a shrinking disc will provide great results depending on your skills/experience with each. When rewelding, a ''squirtgun'' with .023 wire works well for thin sheetmetal. Besure to keep your tacks well spaced with plenty of cool off time inbetween each tack. Also, watch out for grinding heat build up, as well. Those are some good lookin' repopped panels. " Humpty Dumpty was pushed "
well we are back to the book that says align everything before cutting panels off, a lot of work but that is how it has to be done there are no shortcust to fitting panels at least the right way you can slice and dice then weld or shrink a ton but thats not what you really wqnt to do with this nice new panel thes guys have told you how to do it , it is just to put a lot more work into it making it perfect or a lot better fitting they are right on the jack stand, frames flex and you need the strain at the same place as it is when on road good luck and next time take a little more care in fitting, this all sounds easy i did this stuff in the brazing days and it is much nicer now
ok, looking at the pic of the door it looks like there was a small s****e at one time, i ***ume it went into the 1/4 a tiny bit a small dent or s****e like i see on the door could have tweaked the panel. i would work the cleco from each end going towards the middle, and then relief cut it till it is flat. simple without to much chance of making a mess
Hey Adam, Do you have one of those Lancaster type shrinker/stretcher machine, or can ya borrow one? If so, run it down your cut line right thru the area that's buldged out. This will tighten the metal in this area, and bring the flange into alignment. I still think you've a high area above the cut line, and that's why you've an alignment problem. Relief cuts alone, won't correct this without making more repair work for you. Whenever you have an area of a panel that won't return to its former shape (memory) correctly, ya gotta ask why? Is it stretched, is it shrunk, or is it under tension/pressure from old damage? Once you figger it out, and correct the defect, guess what? the panel returns to its' correct shape. '' Meanwhyle, back aboard The Tainted Pork "
Another possibility..the culprit may not be the car, maybe the "new" patch panel, I've installed several and have yet to see one that actually fit!