Wrong place to ask that question (in my opinion), ask the people who made the paint. They are the ones who can tell you what will work with their product.
They wont tell you. Depends on what chemicals are in the thinner. Best thing to do is mix up a small amount of primer and add a bit of the thinner in question and see how it reacts. If it gels up or gets thick or chunky its a no go. If it seems to thin down ok spray it on a test panel and see how it drys. good luck
Considering how cheap the reducer is versus the urethane primer-why even risk it? It may lay out and dry for you, but when you seal and top coat it it may cause you a ton of problems, which will cost more money and time in the long run after stripping it all off and re-priming. I recommend going with the reducer the manufacturer says to use.
NO! NO! NO!........... May or may not work , may or may not stick, may or may not look kinda OK!!!! If you have to ask that kind of question, you obviously don't know what you are doing!!!! Step up to the plate and get the correct paint, primer/surfacer, reducers and whatever else you need from ONE SOURCE/COMPANY. Paint and the under surfaces is the LAST place to CHEAP OUT!!!! EVEN WITH A STUPID FLAT COLOR/BLACK!!!!!!!!!!! It may combine with heat and catch fire, DO NOT PLAY JR CHEMIST!!!! Painter for 40 years. Your Pal, Gary
Some primers don't have a reducer available probably for VOC regulations or possible that they were not intended as a sealer or medium build primer. It doesn't mean that they cannot be thinned. I've heard the stay with in the system speal for a long time, and it is the best way to prevent problems, but the world is not a perfect place and some times you can't get or afford the things to do the job "properly". Trying things that haven't been done before is part of what made this country great. Putting off brand thinner in primer will not cause it to explode, or make your children dumber.
The last time my buddy mixed incompatible products, because it is what he had and needed to get the job done, his paint gun got so hot he could not hold it in his hand. Urethane and enamel do not mix. A urethane reducer should be used.
didnt ask for a bunch of ****..just a simple question..got my paint a primer online and my local paint shop only carries enamel products..
I also shoot a high build primer, the store says there is no reducer made for it but a simple call to PPG gained me the info that the proper thinner was xylene. It is an epoxy primer and unless your covering up 40 grit scratches, it is way too high build...
allways better to use the same products recomended by each manufacturer, less chancse of product failure that way. cheap insurence. my experiance has always been paint products are cheap and labor isnt
+1 I have learned to bend the accepted rules of painting quite a bit to get what I need. But with no reason other than [maybe] saving a few dollars, experimenting with potentially incompatible reducer doesn't make sense to me. You can use whatever incorrect reducer you have on hand for other paint work, washing parts, cleaning the spray gun, etc.
Who knows? Try it! ****** was a heart medication before they found out it could maintain a stiffy! But seriously, experience has taught me not to mix up thinners....I learned by experimenting .
Hey, You're gonna have to grow a thicker skin to play in this sandbox, most of these cats play hardball and are workin' without a net I won't tell ya you're an idiot, a fool or that ya don't know what you're doing, but I will tell you that it ain't great science! Enamel resins and urethane resins arn't the same animal and require different solvents to fully break them down so they may be sprayed. Once upon a time I use to use cheap lacquer thinner in my ''quickie'' synthetic enamel paint jobs. It would really get that last coat to flow, sometimes too well It would also cause lifting & sandscratch swelling in some cases if shot too wet. Solvents that you've had around the shop, and that have been opened up are alot like old gasoline-when new, it ran your car great, after it sat in the tank for whyle, not so good. These days, given the costs of paint materials, I don't gamble much with old or dissimilar paint products. " Life ain't no Disney movie "
Simple answer, go back online and order the correct reducer and then wait. You could try what your thinking and then by the time the correct reducer arrives you should be about done sanding off your oops.
You may not like the way he said it, but he gave you good advice. He claims to have years of experience, and took the time to answer your question. When someone knows more than I do I find it's best to learn what I can from the person, even if I don't like them.
not a matter of like or dis like.. just wanted a simple yes or no answer. just didn't no if they worked with each other or not... and as far as the hard ball and net deal. they are on the net to be on this site. so im not sure how all that works. any how i got what i needed to no.. so thanks for the help guys.
Most "paints" today are more closley are related to plastics and are not the same old thing known as paint. The modern finishes today do not dry, they harden through a chemicial reaction caused by the very spacific ingredients in very exact proportions. The other day I was mixing my "paint" and I grabed the wrong additive by mistake. When I stired it, it hardened solid before I could even pour it. Never mix different brands if you want a good job. It don't work! (Been there, done that, for over 50 years)
I don't believe the man gave you a bunch of ****...reads to me like he gave you good advice, you just need to learn how to read. If you ask for advice around here, be prepared to hear a lot of answers, some good, some not so good...but a man with 40 years of experience prolly won't dish out bad answers. Take a lesson or go away... R-
I started painting for a VERY good living in 1967, it was JUST lacquer and alkyd enamel........I have probably tried every combination under the sun to go quicker,dry harder or come up with some other end result. Some worked , some didn't. Please check my avitar, designed and applied by me, at home. The two black doors are for my Crew Cab Dually. This is what I do. Your Pal, Gary
I use Dupont Centari acrylic enamel paint. Nason is Dupont sister co. also with acrylic enamel paint system. I was told by the Dupont tech people not to mix Nason reducer with Dupont enamel paint, it is that sensitive to the chemistry. There is my 2 cents.
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