Getting the urge to drop a SBC in an OT vehicle. I am only at the what-if stage, but got to wondering how light an SBC can be without getting into ridiculously expensive components. This would be a low-end torque motor. I figure the right aluminum heads, aluminum intake (maybe an Edelbrock C4B) and a Rochester 4-Jet carb. Points ignition, PCV and power steering. I've got a good 350 4-bolt TBI motor to build from. How heavy (light) would this be? The vehicle in question would not appreciate more weight up front.
A lot will depend on how much money you want to spend. Mini starter and small alternator will save twenty pounds. Sheet metal valve covers and oil pan are lighter than aluminum, single belts and pulleys are lighter than serpentine systems. With light clutch/flywheel setup and aluminum bell housing you could get a running SBC down to around 400 pounds without going to really expensive parts.
C4B is barely a step up from a stock 4bbl manifold...it'd be pointless to use one with aftermarket aluminum heads. Aluminum heads are good for about 50lbs worth over their cast iron counterparts. Aluminum rockers will also lose a few lbs. Same with aluminum everything else. Also, light cars don't really need power steering unless you have noodles for arms. You can dump some weight by ditching the power steering stuff. Either that or put an aluminum LS engine in it and you'll be lighter than an SBC and putting out over 330hp in stock form.
I've read that a 350 weighs about 550 lbs. With aluminum heads and intake, you'd probably knock off 60 lbs. or so.
Typical cast Iron Head and cast Iron intake with normal starter, weigs in around 575#.. I would think you could get it to weigh in around 495.. to just over 500# break out the scale and start weighing components, water pump ..cast iron or aluminum Intake, heads, exhaust manifolds, Valve covers..etc.. let us know how light you get her, would be nice to know
Nope! I don't have a preference of one over the other but the original poster is concerned about the amount of weight in the front of his OT project so I suggested the smallest, lightest cast-iron V8 available. Of course he could go even lighter with a Rover/Buick aluminum engine or LS-type small block. So what's the project? British sports car?
So then there are better manifolds? No problem - I thought about the C4B because I like the old school oil filler, and that lets me keep the valve covers clean the way God intended them to be. I would want the motor to be a low rpm torque motor. Not interested in high rpm power.
I want this to be a carbureted, points-ignition motor that is easy to get spare parts or repair anywhere. It's kind of a step backward to reengineer a LS6 to non-computer. The Rover/Buick aluminum motors are good motors but I do not have one and they are not as prolific as the venerable SBC, so parts are more expensive and less plentiful.
Its my DD Heep. It has the stock inline 6 258 cu in Rambler engine. Nice motor but there are limitations. Once it gets a bit more tired, it is either rebuild or swap. I like engine swaps. It is fairly easy to swap a Chebbie motor into a Jeep, plus I like them, plus they are easy to repair anywhere you might be. If I do this I would either put in a SBC (but SBC's in Jeeps are SOOOO common) or an inline stovebolt. Stovebolts are good looking motors. I don't have one, though, and I do have a good 350 collecting dust.
You might as well go with a "stroker" 383 type motor, or even a 406; stock parts and they all (SBC) weigh more or less "about" the same anyways. You'll get your low end torque right there, and for not a lot of difference in initial costs. But, the LS motors are getting to be the way to go, even though a lot of us are having a hard time converting to that style, and thinking. If you have the room under the hood, and it sounds like a big, heavy car also, then just go with a 454 BBC out of a truck or motorhome. you can find them fairly cheap, and you can't beat the torque. Then the Olds, Buick, and pontiac 455's are all lighter that a BBC, and then there's the 472 and 500 Caddy motors. You did say you wanted low end torque. I am Butch/56sedandelivery. Now I see you're talking about a Jeep, and based on that, the SBF is't a bad idea; in fact any engine that will fit will have more to offer than a 258 six.
If you're buying heads and an intake, you might as well get LS heads for it, aluminum is available. You'll make plenty of power for daily driver. TBI to points - will he need a new cam?
Aluminum late model Lt1 is the lightest. There's other ways to get the ch***is weight balanced too. Since 50/50 weight distribution is is the goal and you're voluntarily adding weight up front the entire vehicle wind up heavier. Install A bit heavier front spring to hold the extra engine weight. A bit heavier rear spring - Move everything you can to the rear, then add some ballast back there till you get 50/50 weight distribution. The lighter the engine the less re-balance you need. It's up to you to make sure the increase in power level surp***es the effects of increased weight so the effort actually nets a performance gain. Attempting accuracy with this will require knowing the weights before you get started to get the bias close when you are finished. They make ***anium SBC parts too.
The Jalopy Journal
