I wanted to put a stock type roof on my '29 coupe and, being basically cheap, didn't want to spend the BIG dollars on replacement wood. I had already made the top bows out of 3/4" square tubing but I still needed the tack strips above the doors and inside the cutout. The tack strips have compound curves so just whipping them up on the table saw wasn't an option. As I pondered on what to do I saw a piece of dimensional PVC "lumber" (1 1/2 x 8) and said to myself "Self, that outta work." I ripped a couple of pieces to approximately the right size and, starting at the front, heated them with a heat gun until they conformed to the shape I needed. Yeah, yeah, I know "If there ain't no pics it didn't happen". I'm workin' on it. Anyway, it worked great. The strips hold tacks and screws really well and I now have a roof. Also, I sorta followed the instructions at http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/roofinstall-1.htm which were really helpful. First night out at a cruise and I hit a shower but I was still warm and dry. What a difference.
I finally got some pictures of my top "wood". I wish I could remember to take pictures while I was in the process of doing something instead of afterward. I bent all the pieces using a heat gun. This picture shows both the main tack rail and the upper tack rails as well as the bows. The material is 1 1/2" dimensional PVC. It cuts and works alot like wood using the same tools. The insert is a ~1/8th thick inch luan scrap that I got from the local builders supply for free. The next one shows the little dogleg pieces in the rear corner as well as the curve in the main tack rail. It was pretty easy to do the dogleg. Here is a shot of the finished roof complete with drip edge. I padded it with some polyester quilt batting. I fastened the top material down with long carpet tacks. I attached the 2-piece drip rail with countersunk wood screws. I did have to use a 1/8th X 1/2 inch aluminum strip behind the drip rail so that I could get it to snap together properly. Bending the aluminum drip rails was a project in itself.
Sweet! I may try that on my 31 pickup. Did you just sand off the PVC to get the outer curve above the door? Thanks for the tip! And it will never rot!
If you are talking about the short pieces up between the bows where the insert goes, yes and no. I put them in place full size (1-1/2 -ish) and marked the curve with a Sharpie. I hogged most of the excess off with a jig saw and then finished it up with a block and some 80 grit. You really can't use a power sander on it cause it heats up real quick and gums up the paper.
The thing that amazed me was how well it holds tacks and screws. If you have to take one out and reuse the hole it's almost as tight the second time (unlike wood).
The Jalopy Journal
