New Super Bell drop axle. On pin slides in no problem on one side of the axle. The other one will not. Feels like it will go if I give it a few wacks. My old pins will not go into this axle side either. Thinking of removing one of the stones off my brake cylinder honer so it will fit in there. Anyone hone these?
Does it start from the other side? Maybe it's just a small burr - check closely. YOu can use sharpie or something on the pin and thry to start it in the bore. It will take off the sharpie where the interference is. Carfully use a file or sandpaper wrapped around a round piece to remove the interference.
Do they make honers smaller than brake cylinder ones? I'm thinking of removing one stone on mine but it may hone "out of round" with only two. swissmike- not sure what you mean by starting from the other end? Aren't the axle holes tapered? I tried rapping a candle with emery cloth. Didn't really work that well.
I usually use a piece of wooden dowell. Slit it lengthwise and wrap emery paper around it until if just fits the hole you want to hone. Put it in a drill motor and then just spin it in the hole and keep test fitting the pin until it slips in. Be sure to spray the hole out with some lube before test fitting the pin each time.
The king pins aren't tapered. You might try throwing the king pins in the frezzer for a bit and see if they slip in then. If they do, you should be right in the ball park when they are warm. They should be a light tap fit as HarryT said above.
Yeah I think I need to try the emery paper idea. This one is pretty darn tight. I don't want to knock it in because I need to get it right back out. I'm in mock up stage. I will check out the freezer idea as well. Just want to be able to get it back out.
Check to see if the kingpins are the correct size. 0.812" diameter for 1928 to 1948 car/light truck kingpins. Also check for consistent dia. along the full length.
My 59 ford truck axle spindles under the front of my gasser were worn out, they had bushings in them, pressed in new bushings, got new king pins, and had to align ream the new bushings to get the fit I needed with the new king pins. Lucky a buddy of mine had the proper reamer to do that. Then the new king pins were way tight in the axle ends, had to do the wood dowel with the emery paper bit and it cleaned up to a snug tap in fit with 30 wgt on them. Had to be careful both with the reamer and the emery paper to not take too much off. Then the king pin had to be aligned properly when tapped in so the keeper pin in the axle would match the groove in the king pin, difficult to do. Not sure if your king pin is set up that way or not.
Glad you got it For future reference I use these to tune up holes (3/4 for king holes) When you knock the pin in and out of the hole you can see were its tight (makes a shiny spot) grind accordingly there only …. keep a big brass punch to hit it with.
Tapered? I get the feeling you're talking about the locking pins and they should be driven in with a hammer until flush with the axle. (and never reused) Edit: Nevermind. Hones and candles wrapped in sandpaper won't fit there.
See pic below- Freezer might get them in.but when K-pin warms up and expands,then what? Just get a hone-Ball type or stones,some lubricant,and hone to fit. Go Slow! Hone to fit. Not everything is a slip to fit,your gonna have to fit each side yourself.Ask any machinist. Good luck.
I remember a Sunnen demonstration on piston pin fitting. He had a piston and pin that the pin would fall through the hole in the piston. He had some oil with a dye. He put it on the pin and had a student wipe the oil off as well as he could with a clean rag. Then he had a paper towel with an indicator fluid on it that would change color when it contacted the dye. Even after a thorough wiping, there was still dye on the pin. Then he dropped it through the piston, caught it with the paper towel and there was no dye left on it. The fit was so tight, it wiped it clean. That meant that no oil could get into the pin and it would soon seize in the piston.
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