This is the story. My old friend Mel has been a car guy most of his life and has a small collection of cars that he has built. Mel will soon be 80 years old and has seven kids and a car for each of them from his collection. The first car Mel restored is a 1934 Ford Tudor Sedan. This is to go to his oldest son but Mel wants to update it a little first and has asked my help. What he wants is juice brakes and a better flathead. He already has a 8BA flatty freshly rebuilt. I have built several rods over the years but really need some advice in how to go about this update of engine and brakes. What I need to know is what parts I will need to find and any special info on their installation. We just want to use the 39-48 Ford juice brakes. What master cylinder is best and how do we adapt it to the pedals? Asfor the engine swap we want to keep the original trans so what cluch and bellhousing will work for us? I can fab most stuff,but really want to do this making only the minimum changes to the car. All advice will be gratefully accepted. If I had some parts lists and possible sources of parts that will make this job go well I can help out Mel. I need to know about adapting backing plates to the '34 rear end and spindles,master cylinder to pedal and 8BA to the '34 trans. Thanks in advance,Armstrong
Contact Richard Lacy at earlyv8@aol.com, (626) 338-2282 about the kit he makes to use the original '34 pedals and a '39-'48 type master cylinder. The '39 to '48 backing plates will bolt right onto the '34 rear end. The front will require a kit to center the backing plate on the spindle and space out the bearing. Available for about $25 from most suppliers. Another thing is to be sure to use spacers when running the stock '34 wheels on the hydraulic drums. As far as the engine to transmission goes I never work on the newer stuff but I seem to remember something about using a truck bell housing (but could be wrong on this). What is wrong with the original engine? Charlie Stephens
Thanks for the responses. The brake kit is exactly what I need. As for the 8BA that decision was made before I was brought in on this project. I know just enough about the flatties to know that the 59AB would have been a better choice, but All I can do is to try to make what he has work. Thanks again for the help guys. Any advice on the swap to the 8BA out there?
Why would a 59AB be better than a 34? This is an update? I do understand the differences in the engines, but this swap doesn't make sence as an update. plus the loss in value to the car as an original. I believe it would be bettrer to go SBC and ad AC. then go to disc with power ***ist.
The 59AB would give you insert bearings that would probably last longer and give less trouble. I would never drive a car enough to worry about it. The 59AB has more displacement and more HP. Not enough that I would worry about it. If it was me the original engine (or another '34 engine) would be my first choice. A 36 LB or a '37-'38 21 stud would be my second choice. Insert bearings plus you can run all of the '34 bolt on stuff and it looks almost stock. A 59AB would be my third choice. If it was mine I would leave the '34 engine in it. As I asked before, what is wrong with the existing '34 engine? Charlie Stephens
The original engine in the'34 is just plain worn out. I'm only the help here and am trying to do what Mel wants. We want to change as little as possible,but still make the car safer to drive in modern traffic.
I'm not trying to hijack this thread but would like those with more experience to explain further. I've read several times where many say to put a 59AB in a '34 rather than a 8BA. But I don't know that I fully understand why. I want to do pretty much what Armstrong asked. I'd like to have a newer more reliable motor in my '34 but keep it a flathead. I've been gathering parts for my project for years and have a 8RT out of a truck and also a 8CM Merc, both similar to a 8BA. Between the two I hope to have enough good parts to build a good motor with a 4" crank, likely using stock EAB heads instead of aluminum. I have the truck style oil pan with the large cleanout. And I have a 2 x 2 Edmunds intake I'll put 2 Holley 94s on. I hoped to hook the flatty up to either an original trans or maybe go the T5 route. So why is it easier or better to go with a 59AB instead of the 8BA style flathead?
I feel like a dentist pulling teeth. What is the condition of the newer engine? If it needs work you would definitely be ahead rebuilding the '34. Charlie Stephens
You can use either, but if you use the fully dressed 8BA you will have clearance problems up front. If it were me, and I wanted to run an 8BA (my LEAST favorite flathead) I would dress it like a 59AB. Use a 59AB cam, timing cover, distributor, heads, intake, waterpumps and pulleys. It is all a bolt on, but you gotta do a little work to the block to get it to work. Nothing rocket science.
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