<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o> </o>Ok, time for another stupid question.<o></o> <o> </o> On some of the pictures of 32 Ford Roadsters, there is an exposed gas tank in the rear end. Reading some additional information, it looks like it came from the factory this way And when the fenders are pulled to make a highboy style, there is a trim piece to disguise some of the mounting points. But I have seen several examples of 32 Roadsters without the tank hanging out there to be ran into. <o></o> <o> </o> So my question is twofold.. how does the tank get moved.. and where does it go? Is this a result of Zing the frame that I have read about a few times? Or is it just moved into the trunk with a fuel cell? Or is it just moved between the rear frame members for protection?<o></o>
The tank is just relocated to the trunk like a fuel cell and usually the frame is cut off, "bobbed" just behind the body. The filler pieces you are talking about with fenders are called frame horn covers. Hope that helps.
Maybe you saw a handmade rolled rear pan attached to the lower body? That was on some of the the old builds.
It helps a lot. I kept seeing 32’s both with and without the tank and it was driving me a little batty not knowing.
Check out some of my chassis assembly picks for my sedan. Should help you understand. What kind of rods are you into?
Actually the picture that I went AH HA on was the picture of the quick change rear axle on your Hemi Roadster (sexy car btw). Since I dont see a filler neck anywhere, I am assuming that its in the trunk. <O</O As to what kind of Rods I am into, I have been drooling over a 32 Highboy Roadster for awhile now. Not sure of what style it would be considered, but basically everything smooth and flowing with as little extras as possible. No fenders with just enough chrome to catch the eye without being gaudy. Raked, but not in the weeds since I want to drive it and the speed bumps locally are knee high. Baby Moons for the wheels with the trim done in body color. Visible straight spreader bar out front. No bar between the lights. I have been leaning towards a Fiberglass body due to cost, but since I have a lot of research (and a mustang to finish) before I get started I am in no hurry to run out and buy one today.
If you have a "real world" budget, glass may be the good option. People making these bodies deserve a lot of credit - they help keep the tradition alive! Since ya can't pick an original one up in the salvage yard these days... Here is one of mine and it's been on the road just over a year now. We built it without a single trip to the chrome shop. I did slap on a set of trim rings for a little drama! The engine is from a '49 truck. And I just dropped in one of Jim Linder's Bubbas Hot Rod reworked Mallory distributors - electronic internals with mechanical advance.
Well, glad to see another admirer of the 32 ford. Yes the rear tank always has stuck out like that. Some people dig it some people don't. Some people use a smaller tank in the trunk for less weight or for weight distribution, some people like ignitable bumpers and other people like my self hack of the rear tank for a better view of the quick change rear end. It's about preference. About the gap...that's another preference as well. Some people can care less, other people custom make a patch for the gap...buying an insert is fine but it's never going to fit dead on and will need lots of massaging and work to get it to look right so why not make one yourself.
My car came "bobbed" and I put the rear frame horns back on and fitted the body for the tank. IMHO fiberglass is the best bang for the buck on a Deuce... before I added the rear rails and tank after adding the rear rails and tank.
Before you jump on a glass body do your homework. There are some good buys on Brookvilles if you do a little hunting.
I definitely have a “real world” budget”. I am just hoping that my Mustang project does not dip to far into my wallet. Even if it does (almost guaranteed since it is almost 50 years old), I should still have some time to save up while I am learning the necessary skills (primarily welding) and making space to build my roadster. Also the net filter for the computer I am at does not like your pictures for some reason, I will look at them when I get home.
The before and after pictures really tell the whole story Mayor. That is going to be a sick deuce. I am definitely going to relocate the gas tank and bob the frame.
Homework is DEFINITELY the stage where I am at right now. I keep hearing from various sources how I need to build it in my head before buying the first part, so that is what I am doing. Especially since this will be my first hot rod build. Slow and steady definitely wins the race here. I have looked at the Brooksville Roadster bodies, and 10.5k new seems a large chunk of change to lay down for an all metal body. Once I start the parts scrounge I might be able to get it cheaper, but who knows. Fiberglass has the advantages of being cheaper, produced by more companies, and LIGHTER (definitely a factor since I will be building this beast pretty much alone). Of course, the quality of Fiberglass bodies will vary based on manufacturer and you DO get what you pay for.
A good fiberglass body will run you close to that of 10k...that's for certain...Ive seen some on flea bay going for less than 3,000 but look questionable....the best all around for build quality and price is Australian by far. There's a place in Bakersfield called kiwikonection, they have the Australian bodies in stock and they make their frames in house...really good quality tig welded frames made to order like a good cheeseburger!. That's what Im running. and could not be happier with the build quality....it's outstanding. Real nice people and will give you a tour of the whole process. http://www.kiwikonnection.org/ Also, hollywood hotrods can also help you find good quality cheap parts...they're one of the few speeds shops out there still willing to help someone out even without their own benefit. It's a good thing also that your planning out your build...I did the whole buy as you build on my OT chopper and I think I ended up with enough parts to change the look completely 3 times...and it cost 3xs that of what I could have spent in the first pace. Take your time, go through as much pages here on the hamb, make threads if your question isn't completely clear and write a list on a computer program with word or PowerPoint At the end of each numbered component...type in the link to the website you found the part, or if it's an eBay item, look at the sellers store, and store the link to their store. That way, when your ready to buy the part you know where the best deal is and you don't have to go digging for info later. Trust me, there are things you may forget and where you found them. Hope this helps.
In the last 60 days I have looked at 10 Brookville roadster bodies for under $9500. But you have to go pick them up and no tax. Compare the resale of the steel one and the glass one.
You can do better on a Brookville than 10,500. You should be able to land one for between 9 and 9500. I just looked a Wescotts site and the current price they have on their high quality glass 32 roadster body with cowl vent is 10,000. Nothing wrong with glass but after building more than 15 Brookville pkg roadsters I think that in the end you will get back the extra that steel will cost you!
Erlomb: Thanks for the link; Bakersfield is close enough that a drive down that way would be easy to pick up a frame or body. I will defiantly keep them in mind when I am ready for a frame. That was also a great idea about keeping a list of links to parts along with their prices. It is really easy to lose track of what is what and how much. Roundvalley: I was just going from memory about the price on the Brooksville body. When I actually start this project I will have a long and hard look at what I can find. Krylon: I have been looking at the 32 Roadster from Superior Glass works. It appears to be a decent body with a lot of steel reinforcement. They have them listed at 6k, almost 1\2 of a Brooksville steel body. But why would I ever SELL my Roadster once I have my dream car built??? Hehe.
Never sell??? An even better reason. I've built a lot of 32 Ford keepers over the last 40 years. Currently have only one that's finished. I have nothing against glass (it's helped make the hobby what it is today) but I've always felt I more than get my money back with steel!
To bad your on the left coast.... Fat Cats Rod and Custom in Dalton Ga.made my body and frame. Fit , finish and quality were great ! Actually was talkin' to Steve the owner the other day about him building me up a 41' Willy's next to build.
Some fiberglass bodies need much more work to get ready for paint. Also installing original 32 parts (fenders, windshield, etc.) might be problematic. On a nicely finished car the money saved up front will be negligible considering the total project cost. I'd rather spend the money on a steel A roadster body than a fiberglass 32 and be money ahead.
I have looked at the Brooksville Roadster bodies, and 10.5k new seems a large chunk of change to lay down for an all metal body. Once I start the parts scrounge I might be able to get it cheaper, but who knows. Fiberglass has the advantages of being cheaper, produced by more companies, and LIGHTER (definitely a factor since I will be building this beast pretty much alone). Of course, the quality of Fiberglass bodies will vary based on manufacturer and you DO get what you pay for. [/QUOTE] I am not sure if a fiberglass body is even lighter than the steel body. Does anybody have weights for fiberglass and steel?
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