So this is what I have. A Holley 350cfm 2bbl carb (model #7449-1) What I need to know is if that throttle is facing the front of the car, how do I connect the linkage so that the the throttle is still functioning as if it were facing the "usual" way. Or should I buy another spacer so that I can flip it so that the throttle is towards the rear of the car? Any pics for referance?
Best way would be to find a early 70's Mav/Comet gas pedal/throttle cable and adapt to your vehicle..Is the engine under that carb stock?
Well it is a Ford 200 that was I believe in a 78 Fairmont when it started life. My car is a 62 Fairlane. I already had a 170 out of a 63 Falcon in there, but it had a 1v 1bbl carb so of course the way the linkage is set up was different. I looked on cl***ic inlines, but I got confused.
I'm trying to get creative in a similar way on an old Dodge that I just put a Holley on as well. Not sure what your original linkage was like but I've been thinking about trying to rig something up using a bellcrank with the original linkage. There's always the Lokar Hi-Tech route to look into as well (like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-TC-1000HT/?rtype=10 ) which seems like it could make things a lot easier on you.
Looks like somebody made or modified a 2bbl to one bbl adapter. Usually those tunr the carbs because the bottom of the adapter screws to the stock carb location, and the new carb goes on in the 90 degree off position. the cable throttle pedal is the easiest way to deal with it.
If you have the bell crank and cable set up we can toy with that. Take that bell crank and place it along the side of the carb on the p***enger side. Toy with it a bit and you will see how we are going to make that straight pull turn that corner. We are hoping to pull the bell crank back wards towards the firewall, as it goes backwards it pulls the throttle linkage on the carb. We need to place a cable post to hold the cable, a mount point for the bell crank and a post to mount return springs in duplicate to keep it all returning and non binding. It sounds wacky but it is actually going to have only a very few moving points. If you are around on Monday we may be able to mess about with it, I think I only have one stop in the AM. I'll give you a shout out. Ahawes is on track with me here. This should be cool. I'll bring some toys to see if we can mess with the u joints too. We're close. I went to Grainger and picked up some rod ends that connect to the side of a lever.
Easy way would be the lokar stuff mentioned above and a Pinto, Maverick, Fairmont type pedal. You would also find life much easier with a Locar carb bracket too. I might have a pedal out in the shop I could send you if you can do the Lokar stuff. Let me know...
OK so here's what I have figured out for Blade's engine. His carb linkage pulls toward the p***enger side, If we do use a lokar mustang maverick type pedal we still need to get actuation 270 degrees from the point of pull. That's a lot to ask from a single cable, I think. So hopefully he has the Mr Gasket bell crank which will cut 90 degrees out of the operation, in this way we can linkage from the bell crank to the carb linkage and now have the same feature as if we turned the carb to pull towards the fire wall. I have all of the rod linkage balls and 1/4 28 rod and lock nuts and some springs. Now we may have to place a few mounts and cable staves to get the system held down and reliably without a fault returning. Our number one rule, The stuff must return and decelerate...flawlessly. Hoping he gets a chance to play with his toy soon, I know he got busy with life.
Sounds reasonable, but with throttle cables and linkage usually less is more. The factory stuff just simply routed the cable from firewall to the carb using a bracket to affix that end. The bell crank should work just fine though.
We used a modified 64 falcon gas pedal with a summit copy of the lokar cable to put a weber 2v on my buddys 200.It works great.I will see if I can get him to post a pic to give you an idea.
i have a weber 2v on my 200 6, we built a bracket to hold the cable and used a barrel style cable clamp. had an additional bracket with return spring on throttle. also we used a stock honda civic cable also cut it up and turned it around so the screw on side with the boot bolted to the firewall and the ball end was then hooked through the gas pedal. for the gas pedal i had a 92-95 civic pedal ***embly and cut the gas pedal part off and then cut it 9 ways to sunday and used the bracket and rod along with my stock floor mount gas pedal. if any of that makes sense. at first glance in the car it looks stock. i can take more pics if you want. you can buy this stuff at summit racing but i used the stuff i had lying around because it was free and i still have what appears to be a stock pedal. summit has the lokar cable for 50 bucks and they have pedals to choose from too. also speedway has pedals too. just depends on what you like.
My Maverick pedal is on it's way from NeedLouvers. Will this kit be what I need? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Loka...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5644e355df
Yupper! They do make that in "low tech" black as well for a bit cheaper too. I'd grab the bracket and the kick down kit too. it'll cost some bucks up front, but it will make life mch easier in the long run. Oh, even our O'reilly's stores down here stock Lokar stuff in the Hi Po section... Might look there.
Ok so the guy at Lokar said to go with Cable part # TC-100U36 and Kick down part # KD-20C4U I did explain what I have as far as motor, trans, pedal, and carb go. He said he didn't have a bracket for it, but that these part numbers will work as long as the pedal is cable operated. I hope he is correct I did find a bracket from summit part SRK-4000 Grand total w/o shipping would be $138.75, DAMN! Too much right now. Do I have to have that bracket? Here is the link http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-SRK-4000/
I will check today when I get out in the shop, but I'm pretty sure the bracket will work in your situation. Most of the street rod guys don't run 2bbl carbs, so the quick answer will always be "won't work". Your Holley should have the same side to side pattern as a Holley 4bbl. and the bracket should go right on.
Hey Blades, I went out and looked at my Lokar carb bracket and my Holley two barrel, there should be no problem putting the two of them together. The only hitch I see is that the cable might come in a bit too low for valve cover clearance. In that case I would bend it up a bit or raise it a touch with some washers. That should make life alot easier all the way around.
The issue I see is that when the carb is at full throttle the linkage is going to be real clase to the valve cover and may bind. How about pulling from the bottom of the linkage. make a bracket and use a throttle cable from a motorcycle/Chopper. Some shops will make them to the length you need. I have a carb turned the other way on my flathead rambler motor. I made a piece that came off the bottom of the linkage so I could hook up the stock throttle rod. I can get a picture of the piece I made. But here a picture of the setup.
$138 buys a lot of Argon gas and rods. Worst case scenario you get a fab and TIG lesson and we make a few brackets.
Hey Blades! So I had to stop in at O'Rielly's this afternoon, and I did a bit of snooping. they had the Lakar throttle cable kit for 79.95, but they also had a Mr Gasket universal throttle cable kit that was very similar for only 28.95! Part #5657. It might work for your situation. They also stocked the Lokar throttle bracket for 34.95.
I went to Oreillys and they said they would have to special order (chicago). Asked a few questions and the guy understood. I'll post my results
Had a similar setup on my inline. Turned the carb 90, switched to a throttle cable cobbled up from small braided wire and a pulley to turn the corner. Worked really well. The 2bbl was bad news. Had much better luck with a 500 cfm Edelbrock. Think it was a 1505. I'll post photos if I can find them. Good luck.
After you get your linkage issues worked out your probably gonna have to jet it down 3 or 4 sizes.I put the same carb on my chevy 235,runs great by the way,but was too fat of the shelf.
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