I can't get the durn thing to slip on completely, or at least that's what it looks like to me: Here's the one I purchased, the numbers came back correctly in the system as a match for mine: Even though it has the alignment notch in the yoke, all of my splines are the same, there's no keyed one to match the yoke. Is this something that is further down the shaft, on the inside of the trans, and I have to get the yoke lined up correctly in order for it to slide on that last 1/4 inch or so? thx!
That's probably bottomed out but you want to run it at least a half inch out from that anyhow. In other words you need about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of clearance there for the yoke to move a bit when the suspension works. otherwise it will be bottoming out all the time and damage the trans, yoke or seal.
OH! So that's ok, then? I thought it was supposed to seat all the way up against the seal. It feels completely bottomed out, as I hear the metal *thud* when I slide it in all the way.
^^^^^^^^^^What he said. Make sure you have plenty of room for it through the range of suspension travel. There have been folks that drastically lowered a vehicle only to have the yoke come all the way out when they let the air out.
And, there are several different lengths of yokes out there, for the same application, so it is not so much about how much is sticking out on the outside, but how much it is pulled out all together.
Most cars have at least 1 1/4" of "IN" movement on the yoke, meaning that the yoke is pulled out of the ****** 1 1/4" to allow for movement.
I'm getting the driveshaft made next week. When I talked to the guy making it, he said to bottom out the trans yoke, then pull it out 3/4"....*then* measure from center of u-joint to center of u-joint (or where the center of the holes are on the front and rear yokes, in this case). I came up with approx. 55" for the shaft length.....th350 and 2nd gen camaro rear in a 50 Chevy 2 door sedan.
Be sure to measure it right. Then have a friend measure it. Two sets of eyes. I just had a drive shaft made and it is about 3/4 of an inch shorter than it should be. 300.00 down the drain.
no need to have an actural shaft when measuring,,,have the car on the ground ,,or jacked up from the rear,,,,,,then measure from the seal of the trans..not the spline,,then to the center of the yoke,,r.e. the flat spot on it,,r.e. where the threads start ..r.e. the furthest foward part of the rear,,,,if its an ford or other type like it go from the flat flange....like a mustang......i hate to use shafts cause if its a ****** change then i have to drive over with a new yoke ,,measure go back to the shop ,make the shaft ,return,, do that 6 times a day and add at least an hour or so to my time lost,,,,,,,if you are using an 8.8 they make a new yoke that uses a reguler joint,,it holds horsepower,, but you must install it first as it will change the number in building the new shaft...don,t waste your money on aluminum unless its an all out racer..... the weight saved is not worth the money,,,,,its only a few pounds that are recipklating m*** that most people don,t understand...if you want to save the same amount ,dont have the hungry man for breakfast or loose the sound system...sorry for rambleming on
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