Hi all, just started a build on my '33 Ford 1/2-ton truck. I want to sandblast my frame to see if/where it needs repair (I can already see where it needs some repairs), so I separated the inner and outer frame rails to get this done right. Now I have a question regarding how to re-assemble the chassis; Option 1: Re-assemble it as Henry designed it. Option 2: Box the outer rails using the inner rails as boxing materials. Option 3: Box the outer rails with 1/8" solid plate. I'm using a very mild 283 and 4-speed for a powertrain, nothing crazy. Thoughts? Here are a coupla pix to help visualize the insanity...... Thanks, hope you don't mind the Q's from this noob. This will be a long-term (i.e.; SLOW!) build.
On my 40, I'm re-assembling the frame using rivets from Big Flats Rivet Company A mild SBC shouldn't stress the frame that much <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="if(typeof(jsCall)=='function'){jsCall();}else{setTimeout('jsCall()',500);}" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
did the same thing to my '33 roadster frame, took it all apart and blasted it put a coat of primer on it and then put it all back together, got it straight and true and boxed it from the front to where the K-member started to bend end and boxed it from the rear up to the k-member again.. put a small plate on the rails inside where the k-member goes out to the middle for the trans mount. Made it very strong the thing you don't want to happen is have the frame flex on you, even though you're running a small block and 4 speed you'll jump on it one day and this will keep you from having to do it all again...
33-34 Ford frames are plenty strong. Should easily handle your motor without any boxing. I have taken two 33-34 frames apart as you did, and welded them back together. One has been on the road for 16 years with no problems. The other is still a work in progress. I like the idea of putting new rivets in, and may try that approach on my next build
Well, against the advice of ya'll, and for the sport of it, I decided to cut up the inner frame and use the components to "box" the rails. Am I nuts? Probably, but it was fun, and I think it's going to work great. Here's a shot of the cut up inner frame structure. At this point, I was looking for the guys with the straight jacket, but they never came, so all is well I suppose. lol. And here's a shot or three of the cut up parts installed as "boxing" members.... The center cross-member is tacked in to check to make sure she's all square, etc. So far so good! Next up I'll pull it all apart for a good cleaning of the backsides and a good coat of primer/paint. Then I'll re-assemble it and really make some progress! Next question: weld the boxing members to the outer rail continuously along the entire length of the flanges? Or plug-weld them together? I kinda dig the way they marry together, they look like they belong. Welding them continuously might look a little too new-school. Your thoughts? VDT
I don't know about the strenght of it but, it looks cool that way... Plug weld it on top in front of firewall and stitch weld the bottom seam. Stitch the rest of it. Maybe continue the vertical part of the "X" ends to meet the reversed box member. Smokey
Just remember not to continuously weld without moving around or you will warp the frame. Thats what I did as a young man with my first old hot rod. Live and learn.
The very same reason my 48 doesn't still have the first frame I built for it under it now. That frame is really starting to look good Voodoo Twin and it still retains the look of a production frame.
It really looks great! I am very happy I found this thread. My frame was from a hotrod that was totalled...an original that somebody boxed, 4 bar'd and warped the hell out of it, beyond accident damage. I have cut it all apart and separated the inner and out channels. The original inner channel makes a super clean and nostaligic look for boxing. I cannot see how it would have any less structural integrity over the "cheese-dick" boxing plates out there. I think there is less chance of warpit too. I plan to drill holes in the frame rail flanges and rosset weld the oem channels. Sorry about hi-jacking, but you have one hell of good idea! I will post pictures soon if ok with you.
Just a reminder guys, check your measurements. 33 and 34 chassis will spring apart after you drill out the rivets.
That's right, they will. The cool thing is you can use the rivet holes to bolt the frame together to get everything squared up for when you are ready to weld it.
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