how long should you wait before you clear over One Shot. when Kritz did my fridge he used hardner and we waited about 3 or 4 days before i finaly cleared it. right now i am flaming a truck and i am having a guy come pinstripe it next thursday. he said he does not use hardner with One Shot and never has. he was real leary of me clearing over it right away. he said i should wait but he was'nt sure how long i should wait. i have busted my *** on this thing (and have lots left to do still at this point) and the last thing i want is the paint to lift cause i cleared too early over the stripes. so that you know the process i used. i sprayed new base coat (black) and one good coat of clear. then i wet sanded with 1000 grit. now i am laying the flames out. tommarow i will lay the color in the flames and then unmask it all and lay on a couple coats of clear. it will then get wet sanded with 1000 or 1200 grit and then it will be ready for the stripes. after that i will lay on a couple (maybe 3) more coats of clear. then it gets color sanded, compounded and polished. i am using high end PPG polyurethane clear (2002 i think). so. how long should i wait? if it gets striped thurday morning will it be ready for clear by saturday?? sunday?? should i give it longer?? i'd like to get this done in a timely manner so i'm hoping i can clear it by sunday. what do you think??? thanks
Ive been told you can use the urethane reducer to thin the one shot and it supposbly makes it compatible enough so the one shot doesnt lift. Me personally, i would do some test panels because urethane clear is like battery acid to enamel
I have been told that the best way to avoid lifting of the one shot is it must be catalyzed when applied. I have had no experience with clearing over it, but this is what I was told. I have saw jobs that lifted when no catalyst was used with the one shot though.
I have never cleared over striping- always put striping on last -if it was One Shot...Id think as with most enamels like an alkalyd/oil or one shot that if a guy coated over it too soon it would lift.It would even lift if recoated with the same enamel ,if done too quickly too. 'I would think after 48 hours it would be fine. I have a friend who does some of the fauxwood on woodies we have done together -and he clears with urethane over the oil base woodgraining toners. He sprays one light coat clear and lets it dry-nib sands it-waits overnite and then does the normal amount of coats of clear over that .....
I clear over One Shot all the time.........Never had a problem in the last 16 years.......just make sure you don't bury it too heavy on the first coat of clear....mist the first coat....give it plenty of time to flash and put down the remainder of coats with ease.......The Urethane clears are hotter and will lift up the One Shot if you cover it with too much clear on the first p***....... I use One Shot for murals, lettering and pinstriping..........I'll keep using it till they stop making it probably....
I have never tried it myself but I did ask Bobbo about it at a event and thats how he said to do it. Like I said though, I havent tried it
Using the incorrect Reducer desm't change the Alkyd Resins,or the way they react to "hot" solvents. The drier it is the better,even then,no guarantees. Dust one 2 or 3 coats really DRY,to act as a barrier coat,then spray it wet. Why not get Kritz to do this job as well ?
i have cleared over 1 shot almost as soon as it dried you just have to lightly dust over it let that layer dry, then do it a couple more times. so it doesnt wrinkle up. once you've dusted over it a couple times you can throw it down heavy.
I cleared over one shot with no hardener in it the next day (a full 24 hours)and it was fine. But I have heard that sometimes it will randomly lift. I would say the longer wait the better probably.
I aint no paint wizard, but i do know if your dealing with Urethane and you wait 24 plus hours and shoot without scuffing first, your asking for trouble...then again with enamels if you scuff and shoot urethane its like adding salt to an open wound.
Mike: This is what I have experienced with PPG urethane clears;specifically 2021 and 2042.Also used DuPont 3000 series.The advantage to the DuPont is you can bake it for 10 minutes and it's out the door. I just had my painter clear a bunch of license plates that had been setting for about 5 days.Had NO problems with puckering at all. His technique is to use two VERY LIGHT misting coats about 10 minutes apart before applying a double(wet)coat. Do NOT use a reducer that is too aggressive or slow drying as it will penetrate the 1-Shot and cause it to react. I have cleared over 1-Shot almost before it has set up(about 3-4 hours)but it is a very risky proposition and I would not recommend it.I rarely use catalyst in 1-Shot but if I do,I use the catalyst that goes with the clear.It really doesn't mix with the 1-Shot but merely allows the clear to go over it. As a side note,I recently did some bike parts that were flat black and had a flattened clear put over them.I believe it was regular clear with a deglossing agent.DO NOT attempt to spray this over 1-Shot especially if you are using 885 reducer or you will have eruptions on a grand scale!Good luck and call me if you have any questions. Ray
Yeah, the light dusting, then regular coating should get it, but if you want to be safe use the catalyst. I have a painter friend who loves to spray really heavy clear coats and the catalyst has so far prevented any lifting/puckering. example: 3 HEAVY coats of clear were shot less than 12 hrs after the stripes were applied on a car, no problems.
I have been doing custom paint for over 25 years. Seen it lift the same day, and many days after. I like to finish paint up as quickly as I can. I paint, clear, and set overnight. Then sand the entire car, have 00Mack stripe it, using the same hardener I use in the clear, then reclear it ASAP. Good insurance is the hardener, or use HOK striping enamel. OR just stripe the job at the end, with no clear over it.
Using urethane reducer (fast) in 1 Shot just lets it dry faster. I'm not sure what hardner in 1 Shot does, but if it works go for it. Most lifting of the striping when clearing will depend on the density of the pigments in the color (some colors will lift easier than others) and how aggressive/slow the solvent/reducer is in the clear. I've had the best luck, like most of you, by putting the first coat of clear on light with some good flash time between the next wet coats and using a reducer that is not too aggressive. HOK urethane striping enamel works very well. overspray
What I have been doing is use the same hardener that you are using for the clear. It's a trick that a striper told me. That way the one shot is completely compatable with your topcoat. You can clear over it like normal. Or like the others have said, you can lay the clear on "dry" The first coat. Then bury it.
Light first coat dusting over 1Shot without hardener does get the job done But, is no guarantee against lifting. The trick in my experience is to make sure the 1Shot has completely dried out of the thinner you cut it with. The best way nowadays is to use the urethene catalyst or hardener used in the paint job. 1Shot hardener works too. I only use 1shot hardener to get the striping to dry faster and harder. I striped the pictured Harley last Febuary and we shot the urethane clear an hour after striping. I used the hardener they painted the bike with in the 1Shot. The mineral spirits I cut the 1Shot with a little I knew was still breathing outta that paint. The clear went on with no problem and is still going strong. I hope this helps. Joel Ah, ya can't see the linework in the pic, ****!
Peter Pan is right. The longer you can let 1-Shot dry before clearing over it the better. A buddy of mine lets his **** dry for DAYS before applying any clear over it. Longer is better - if you want quick use HOK.
Ive been using base coat or HOK when I want to clear right away. Some people say you cant stripe with base coat but Ive been doin it and its been working and I know I wont have a problem with the clear you just gotta work fast The PT Cruiser I did on the friday art show a while ago I striped the flames with basecoat so I could flame stripe and clear all in one day
Not the same but when I have to paint over very old Lacquer woodgraining, I use an intercoat clear HOK SG-100 to keep things in place. And it helps keep fish eyes away,, Use the fastest reducer and dust it on. And use a fast reducer in the Final clear so it don't eat down to the base to far and lift. Jdee
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