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temp guage troubleshooting

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by shocker998md, Jun 22, 2011.

  1. shocker998md
    Joined: May 17, 2009
    Posts: 878

    shocker998md
    Member

    I'm trying to get my temp guage to work in my 66 f100 and I'm not making any progess. I put a hot lead to the wire and the guage sweeps. I put a new sending unit in and its not working. Put 12v to it and it still sweeps. What should be my next step?
     
  2. shocker998md
    Joined: May 17, 2009
    Posts: 878

    shocker998md
    Member

  3. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    You do know that Ford uses a voltage regulator in their gauge wiring ? Ford gauges operater on about 5 volts and if you are putting 12V to the gauge directly it will not read right. The Volt reg is about 1X2 inches and normaly mounts on the back of the gauge cluster.
     
  4. shocker998md
    Joined: May 17, 2009
    Posts: 878

    shocker998md
    Member

    I forgot to ad, thats new too.
     
  5. moefuzz
    Joined: Jul 16, 2005
    Posts: 4,951

    moefuzz
    Member

    Put 4.5 volts directly to the gauge, 3 AA or similar batteries in series will give you that. The gauge should sweep all the way.
    If it doesn't, gauge is faulty.


    Put 12v to CVR (constant Voltage Regulator) and measure the output as 4.5 or 5 volts.

    Check sender, if it is sealed with Teflon tape or similar, you'll have a poor ground.
    Use ohm meter to check resistance from base/ground/threads of sender and battery terminal/ground.
    Should read as a dead short. That's a good ground between senders base, intake, motor, battery.
    You can temporarily ground the base/threads of the sender to the battery terminal to check/insure ground and then apply voltages to sender and gauge while observing output.

    The ground between the threads/base of the sender and the battery can be interrupted by things like sealants, (intake manifold) gaskets, goop on threads of bolts and/or sender.


    .
     
  6. moefuzz
    Joined: Jul 16, 2005
    Posts: 4,951

    moefuzz
    Member

    Many times, a new part such as a sender may be bad out of the box....
    Food for thought.


    .
     
  7. railroad
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 242

    railroad
    Member

    I heard of a guy that had a faulty gas gauge. No matter what he tried it would only read 1/2 full. Was about to bend the float arm and someone told him he should fill the gas tank. I guess you are getting hot water to the sending unit.
     
  8. MORRISGAUGE
    Joined: Jun 6, 2011
    Posts: 217

    MORRISGAUGE
    Member

    The gauge, when voltage regulated, should respond I'm the 78-10 OHM range. Check the sender resistance to ground. Then work your way up.
     
  9. slickhale
    Joined: Dec 19, 2010
    Posts: 772

    slickhale
    Member
    from Phoenix

    try adding an extra ground wire to the gauge, if i remember right yours grounds thru the gauge cluster from the factory
     
  10. rom828
    Joined: Apr 6, 2011
    Posts: 34

    rom828
    Member

    Take off the sending unit wire and ground it, gauge will peg if all is well. Don't leave it grounded long, as this is hard on the voltage regulater.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2011
  11. MORRISGAUGE
    Joined: Jun 6, 2011
    Posts: 217

    MORRISGAUGE
    Member

    Slickhale, the gauge is thermal and, thus, does not ground through the mount plate or cluster. The sending unit IS grounded.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2011
  12. slickhale
    Joined: Dec 19, 2010
    Posts: 772

    slickhale
    Member
    from Phoenix

    you are correct sir- i need gl***es i guess, i swore the thread said fuel gauge.
     
  13. MORRISGAUGE
    Joined: Jun 6, 2011
    Posts: 217

    MORRISGAUGE
    Member

    All of the King Seely brand gauges in the Ford products (and others) are the thermal type. Unless its the early hydrostatic (tell-tale) temp gauges.
     

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