More than likely buying a complete motor tomorrow. Hasn't ran for a while, but turns over . What are some things I need to look for? What's the going price on these ? Also, do Ford parts bolt up? Manifolds/heads etc. Thank you
Same basic engine, all heads, manifolds, cams, etc. will fit as long as they are '49-up. The pre-49 engines are a tad different. Check for cracks! If the seller won't let you pull the heads, that's a bad sign. A badly cracked flattie is s**** iron, unless you are looking for a 4" Merc crank to put in another block.
The only way to know for sure if it's a Merc is to measure the stroke, and you really need to remove the heads and oil pan anyway to check for obvious cracks and damage. A good late Merc, and with some history, that checks out visually should be worth $700 or more, based on what good blocks and cranks are bringing. I wouldnt give more than $100 for an engine I could not inspect internally, and it would have to have most/all the accessories to help recover the cost if the block turns out bad, and/or it has a Ford crank. The late 8BA/8CM/8RT blocks are all the same, and intakes, water pumps, front covers, oil pans, flywheels, etc, interchange. Good luck.
Thank you all, where are the most common cracks located? Also are there markings on a merc crank I could identify?
Buy it regardless. Only if you can get a good price. It would be taking a shot in the dark but if the crank is good it would be worth it.
Whats this? It doesn't look like a crack in person to be honest, it looks more like part of the casting. I'm no expert . What do you flathead people think?
Looks like a crack. They can be s***ched. The way to tell a Merc crank is to measure the stroke. 4" is Merc, 3 3/4" is Ford.
CRACK !! If it runs into a exhaust port block is basically s**** as repair is more than the block is worth.
Ouch, those darn cracks again! I picked up this truck for 800, just for the 49 Merc flatty that was in it. Engine was froze up solid, pulled the engine and a few other parts out of the truck and sold it to a local photographer to be used as a prop for photo shoots for 800. I lucked out with the crank and block both being good and now the engine has been rebuilt and waiting to go in my 51 F1 hopefully soon.
Ive seen some old fixes with a LOT of miles where they just throw a sleeve into the hole and call it good, aparently they worked okay for 150,000 or so miles, with modern rebuild prices it becomes a little more of a game of russian roulet though
Like I said I'm no expert , but I really don't think this is a crack, it doesn't go into the valve seat.
http://www.flatheadv8.org/boomer/crank.htm Linked article has good info and pix to show how to tell the difference.
Yeah I figured out crank differences before I went and looked At it. Wanted to make sure I was buying a true merc
Definitely a crack. The reason it doesn't go into the valve seat is because the valve seat is a separate piece of metal, not part of the block casting. It is just pressed into the block.
Well, you can run it, but you may get some water in the combustion chamber. I wouldn't spend any money on the block until a pro determines if it can be fixed or not. From the looks of the cylinder and valve seats, the motor looks like it could easily be a runner without significant effort. The motor looks like it is pretty decent, based on the tops of the pistons and the valves. Ecxept, of course, for that crack.....
You feel lucky ,play Russian roulette? If the valve above the crack is an exhaust 99.44% of the time you will have exhaust gas leakage into the cooling system. BTDT have Tshirt from way back in the 60s.
I was thinking old repair from photo #1 and that last photo sure looks like it ! I think I would run it and see ! it's not going to hurt the crank ,and that"s the best part .
Throw a "Dye Check" on it. Most good weld shops use this stuff to find flaws in welds. The method consists in applying a highly penetrating liquid on the surface. That liquid, which is often red or fluorescent, infiltrates by capillarity into the possible cracks. After having been allowed the time to work into the suspected flaw,, the excess of liquid is washed away. Then the surface is dried and a "developer" is applied (usually a white powdery film); the latter acts as a pump and pulls the red product out of the cracks, allowing for a precise conclusion.
It definately looks like an old repair and not a new crack. That is exactly what a s***ched repair looks like. I think you lucked out.
Get it either die checked of magna fluxed and you will know for sure ! You may have been living right !! LOL
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