My buddie gets the satin black from autozone or kragen sprayed it in a cup gun and it comes out *****en..and for about $40 ...just have to figure the right air pressure and how much to reduce it so there are no stripes but it looks good..just dries fast..
skidmarks, from what I know the agent continues flattening after its applied. when I painted my roadster with ppg single stage and flat agent. one door got screwed up, i couldnt get back to it for a while, when it was done with the same ratio as first time the color missed by a c-hair. I notice it but most everyone else doesnt. The agent is heavy and settles and is solvent based. try to do it all at once
One more vote for SEM Hot Rod Black, easy to shoot lays down good and looks real smooth. The guys at SEM told me that they will have other colors available soon.
I just tried using Rustoleum, I did not like it as much as SEM Hot Rod Black. I read in the Hot Rod Magazine article that it does not spay that good and they were right. The owner of the Merc loved it, dried spotty. Maybe operator error? The picture attached is taken right after I sprayed it, after a few days it looked more uniform.
DuPont makes a "Hot Rod Black" in their Hot Hues line. It works great, but it's pretty pricey... http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/hh/s/color/HH_CI-HotRodBlack.html
what did you reduce the rustoleom with? Use single stage reducer, sprays nice, dries rock hard. i have done lots of motorcycles this way, after harley came out with the flat color line. The held up great even with the occasional gas spill all over the tank.
I don't know about the new LF formula, but the old PPG DP primer didn't have any UV protection and would chalk in the sun.
go to your local cat dealer ask for semi gloss black hood paint,same price as blitz, no flattener no hardner can use any thinner. it dries so fast that you cant go back to the previous panel. three years on my avitar no change
That is true of all epoxy. As tough and resistant as epoxy is, for some reason it doesn't do well in the sun. That's why there aren't epoxy car paints. In spite of fading/whitening/chalking over time, the old DP primer would last and protect quite a while. That's not a concern with the LF product, because the underlying metal will rust long before the appearance noticeably deteriorates.
Anybody have suggestions on going the other way...? I've often wondered what it would take to go from Satin to Shiny. Maybe not new car shiny, but something like old gloss black. If your paint and body work are acceptable (to you), why couldn't you shoot some shiny clear over it? If the existing paint and said clear were compatible, what would be the problem? I'm definitely not a paint guy, so I'm asking....
Clear over flat will result in shiny, but some colors, like black that was flattened with ground silica or gl***(common flattening agents), will have a somewhat hazy milky look compared to "regular" gloss black.
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