Im working on putting a gm 4 speed in my '50 ford and working on the clutch linkage...and the clutch fork on my new setup is higher than the stock setup...I was wondering If I can weld piece at the end pointing straight down that will lower where the rod meets the clutch fork. If i could do this, the rod will pull straight back on the newly "lowered add on piece" I kind of drew what i want to do in microsoft paint. I attached a picture of the clutch fork I have, and in my drawing, the RED is what I want to add on.. Will this work right? I have a feeling that because the clutch fork is not straight, when pulled it will have the tendency to twist (on the pivot ball) and not put even pressure on the throwout bearing. Will it in fact twist if the clutch rod pulls straight back? Another idea is to simple fab up a intricate clutch linkage rod, would this setup work? Lets here some ideas guys.
You are correct dropping a piece off the fork will cause it to twist out of alignment...Need to bring the linkage to the fork so that the fork geometry does not change...What engine you using...If its an sbc you can install the ball on the side of the block and cut up a Z bar with some himes its what I have on 55 Chevy truck...We put it on a lot of hotrods we build...I will see if I can come up with some pics for ya.
That is correct. However, if the linkage is reasonably long it can run at a slight angle. I can't tell you how much angle would be OK, though; it depends on the exact geometry and the detail of the throwout bearing. Another option is a U-crank, i.e. two parallel idler arms on a short shaft, running in bronze bushes top and bottom. If the effective angle of the linkage is not ideal the arms can have a slight angle between them to correct that. Also, are you absolutely sure your clutch pedal's leverage is right for the new clutch arm's length? If you're really lucky you might find that you need to modify the pedal mechanism in such a way that the linkage ends up sitting where it ought to - but what are the chances? Whatever the case it's worth remembering that you want X movement at the pressure plate for Y movement at your foot, and all kinds of different stuff can happen in between to bring it about.
im using a nailhead with an aftermarket bellhousing to a muncie. thanks for the responses, this is the first time im setting up custom clutch linkage and now i have more to think about. how can i tell how much travel is required at my pressure plate? i obviously can't push it wwith my hands.
Take a look at clutch linkages in stock applications of both the Nailhead and the Muncie. The ratios of arm lengths etc. should give you an idea of what sort of travel you want. In fact, if you've got your stock Ford clutch linkage, studying that should already put you in the right neighbourhood.
BTTT anyone else have any input? would this work or no? Part of me says it would part me says it wouldnt.
I would be afraid of the twist as well. I ended up making a pretty long linkage with a sort- of Z-bar arrangement on my '34 because of space constraints. I will look for some pictures.
..... Making an angled rod like your drawing SEEMS like it would work.....but, it WILL NOT. Any time you do something like your drawing, the forces will EFFECTIVELY work like drawing a straight line between the two attach points. In other words, your new linkage would pull DOWNWARD on the throwout arm, as well as pulling rearward on it. The throwout bearing will not like that. DD
Running into the same problem on my Dad's 49 Ford. 327 4 speed. Would like to keep the stock pedals, and not seeing any way to get a mechanical linkage to work. Everything we've tried so far puts the cross shaft in a bind. If we're able to get it to work, will post pics, but getting real close to going to a hydraulic linkage.
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