First rollout: First mile: Aside from header gasket mis-matches, I had a couple other problems when firing the new motor. I had installed a Percy's external needle valve setup on the 4779 Holley 600 and didn't realize that a special gasket was needed, and it was also included in the kit. Fuuuu...... it was like running it with no jets and the venturis looked like little showers. In running for 20 minutes at 2000 rpm to break in the cam, I went through 5 gallons of gas. Needless to say, the plugs were a bit sooty, but not fouled. After resolving this and the header gasket leaks, I bled the power steering manually and then installed the belt. I fired the engine and the steering went immediately to the lock and I lost about a quart of fluid, all over hell and back. What a mess. I thought the pressure and return fittings were different sizes and they couldn't inadvertently be swapped. I was wrong. I corrected that, re-bled, and it is now happy. My Dolphin Gauges Speedo won't move off zero. Good signal is getting to it and the odometer increments. It has to go back for repair or replacement.........I hope they don't try to charge me for it...
Nothing like that 1st drive. Congratulations. Hopefully in the next couple weeks, I'll be showing my F1's first drive in 29 years.
Is that a park brake lever as part of your shifter or am I imagining things? If so, that would be exactly what I need. Give me some details please... BTW, awesome work!!
Yes. Lokar makes a e-brake that attaches to their shifter mechanism. Nice thing is the handle is longer than their standard ones. The standard one really doesn't give you enough mechanical advantage if you are running rear GM disc brake calipers with integral e-brake. I wish I had known this on my last project, but it is never to late to change it. Also the shifter has a black shaft and handle. I called Dolphin for an update today. They are sending me a newer electronic gauge. It won't have the dolphin on the front, but I doubt that will matter too much.
I noticed you installed a fuel tank in the back. What tank is that? Thinking about doing the same on my '51.
I got the tank from "Tanks" and through Sachse Rod Shop in TX. I don't recall if they are Hamb Alliance, or maybe I just did it to save tax money because they are a Tanks dealer. The tank is a 15 gallon. I prefer a larger tank, however, you can't beat the price. I believe it was $215 with the fill neck, cap, and two cap mounting locations with a block off plate. The front end is a TCI mustang II that I got from CPP. I was never able to find a price break on TCI until CPP started carrying them. I bought an entire chassis from them in the past and none of the local street rod vendors in Escondido CA would give me any break on the price. Those guys can get bent for all I care. Anyway, if you watch ebay closely, you can find tremendous deals on CPP packages, with free stuff thrown in and free shipping. If I recall, the front end was $1700 shipped and it includes SS brake hoses, a proportioning valve, sway bar, and power rack. I wanted to get a FatMan, but there is no way to get a deal so great. As much as I hate ebay and pay pal, I was pleased that you could call CPP with the ebay auction number and they would give you the same deal over the phone as the ebay.
Did some hammering this weekend. That left running board looked like a total loss, but I hammered on it for a couple hours today and got it into decent shape. I will lay a coat of 'glass along the outer edge and it will look like new. The right one looked better, but it actually took more work. Cheapest steel running boards out there are $400 + shipping for new. Other steel that look OEM are much higher. The bed now has a 1 3/4" square tube steel frame and is quite solid. I have to replace the front panel and spend a day hammering on the back of the cab.
...it's a great feeling when you get your project to the point you're at; looks great and nice work. Man, I love those F-1's, I gotta get back to work on mine. keep us posted.
Your post and another on an F-1 build have got me goin on my 48 again; it's comin along well;...here's a sneak peak...
...kept at it, now it's licenced and drivin...,couple things left to do like wire headlites, etc,...drives great.
I stripped the entire cab and front fenders to bare metal a few weeks back. I used the 3M brown bristle disc in a 4.5" angle grinder. This was about 3 hours work, pausing to rest and let the tool (and the tool running it) cool off.
Here is the rot on the front bed panel. I replaced it with a donor from an 80's Chevy truck: Here is the tube frame I made for the base: I wish I had more pics of the completed work. It is the photographers fault, she must be a Union employee.
This shows a 3M Bristle 60 grit bristle disc and what it will do in pretty short order to two layers of primer, two layers of paint, and body filler. It has tremendous advantages to media blasting:
Nice, looks like I need to get me some of thse 3m discs. How much did you do with one? Use it on an angle grinder?
4.5" electric angle grinder. Very little pressure, let it glide on the work surface. The wheels aren't cheap, unless you get them on the intarwebs. About a half of one wheel did those rear fenders. The brown wheels are the best.
Have you used the 3m purple stripit discs? Are these better? I'm getting ready to buy another box, might switch if they work better. Thanks
Yes, I use the purple discs. For flat surfaces, the bristle discs are much faster, and they do not like tight spots that will easily break off the bristles. The purple is great for edges, door jambs, etc. The cheap copies that harbor freight sells don't last 1/4 of the time the 3M purple discs last.
The Jalopy Journal
