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SnapperHead Coupe - 1934 Frame Build - Part10: Vega Steering Box Mount

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bored&Stroked, Feb 7, 2010.

  1. Okay - before you guys all crucify me . . . I've had stock 34 boxes, F100's, etc -- decided to go a more modern Vega box route (sometimes one decides to depart from 100% traditional . . . this is one of those cases).

    This isn't a whole bunch of work - but if you haven't done it before, then maybe this will help you.

    1) Parts: I bought a Ch***is Engineering Vega Steering box mounting plate, hardware, etc.. Basically this allows you to install a cross-steer setup in an early ch***is -- instead of the traditional drag-link setup.

    2) Parts Prep: I always grind, sand, polish any bracket before I weld it to the frame -- getting parts ready for paint before the welding process makes things whole lost easier later on. Sometimes I want to rush and just get to welding, but I manage to hold myself back and do the detail work before I weld.

    The instructions that come with the bracket clearly show the mounting position on Model A, 32 and 33-34 frames. I measured everything, setup the location and drilled the cross-bolt hole to get started.

    3) Things to Note: If you've "stepped boxed" the frame like I did, then you're going to have to notch the area of the frame where the steering mount bracket goes through. The plate is designed to only work with a boxed frame -- and their ***umption is that the boxing plates are flush with the frame corner (not stepped boxed).

    a) Removing 3/16 of the frame rail "lip" - so the box will clear. Everything is a tight fit, so in addition to notching the rails for the plate to p*** through, you'll need to grind/cut down the lip section (in the center) between the two ends of the plate. This is because the steering box will interfere with the frame rail edge. It is much easier to do this before you weld the plate in than afterwords. I left enough of a lip to still have the boxing plate weld strong and intact.

    4) Details on my Boxing Plates: I fabricated the front 18" or so of my boxing plates from 1/4" steel -- as I wanted more strength for the motor mounts, the cross-member welds, etc.. When I boxed the frame I grafted these sections to the Ionia 10 gauge plates. Given that I have a big-*** Hemi, with the added weight of a blower, this made sense to me. This also gives me a lot more material to weld the motor mounts and steering box plates to . . . so I could crank up the AMPs on the TIG welder.

    5) Through Bolt: The kit includes a piece of 3/4" DOM tubing that is inserted between the outside/inside of the rail/boxing-plate and then welded in place on both sides (you drill a 3/4" hole through the rail and boxing plate, cut the tube to length, then weld it in). A 7/16 bolt p***es from the outside of the frame - to pickup the third mounting ear of the steering box. I pondered NOT using this and welding a stud to the steering box plate, but then decided that the additional safety factor of having a big bolt - that p***es outside-to-inside to pickup the steering box is something worth keeping. Hell - a Vega box isn't the best looking anyway, so who cares about a bolt head on the outside of the frame rail - can always use a '****on head'.

    6) I tacked everything in place - then welded all sides. As expected, the plate distorted a bit and was not 100 % flat (It bent a bit to the outside - due to the welds on the frame rail). I used an Oxy-Acet torch to heat the bracket right next to the frame and a big wrench to bend it back to straight. I've found many cases where the good ole' "flame wrench" comes in handy!

    7) Once the plate was flat, then I reworked their support gussets - and welded the two of them on the outside. These two gussets pickup the frame rail and really help to stiffen the steering box mount - don't leave them off!

    Here are pictures:

    PlateWeldedtoBoxingPlate copy.jpg

    OutsideWelds1 copy.jpg

    OutsideWeldds2 copy.jpg

    BoxMounted1 copy.jpg

    BoxMounted2 copy.jpg

    Tig Welds . . . I'm getting better! Sometimes I do quite well, other times I'm not terribly overjoyed. I guess for a self-taught hobbyist, I need to cut myself some slack!

    Weld_GettingBetterCopy.jpg

    Hope this helps somebody -- I spent about 6 - 8 hours on it total (including all the damn bracket grinding, polishing, etc.)
     
  2. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,074

    chaddilac
    Member

    WooooooW!!!! Nice job!
     
  3. OoltewahSpeedShop
    Joined: Oct 18, 2007
    Posts: 3,103

    OoltewahSpeedShop
    Member

  4. busch
    Joined: Jan 19, 2010
    Posts: 176

    busch
    Member

    Cut your self some slack that looks good nice job
     
  5. That is some beautiful work right there. Very nice!
     
  6. Thanks! I just checked out your build -- nice work . . . really like what you're doing. Like you, I'm doing as much as I possibly can - improving my skills along the way. I really enjoy welding, though it pisses me off at times when it doesn't come out as nice looking as I'd like. I find that when I'm in a decent position and have a good posture, support, arm rests, etc . . . things go quite well. BUT - I've had to weld in so many strange angles, funny positions, etc -- feel like a contortionist at times. Welding all the frame pieces (gussets, etc) - inside and out almost turned me into a ******** cripple! I have TOTAL RESPECT for the guys that do this on a daily basis and churn out consistent and beautiful welds in all the funny locations -- like roll cage fabricators!
     
  7. Inland empire hot rods
    Joined: Aug 5, 2010
    Posts: 1,065

    Inland empire hot rods
    Member
    from so cal

  8. B1RDMAN
    Joined: Dec 24, 2008
    Posts: 113

    B1RDMAN
    Member

    I'd worry less what the hell other folks think about what you put on your car. Your work is outstanding. Nice welds. Beautiful fit.
     
  9. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 9,631

    brady1929
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    i would be happy with those welds
     

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