Just started the rear suspension work -- here it what the setup is: 1) Frankland Big Q.C. - was available in the 60's . . . fits the period of my build. Bought the thing used a couple years ago - originally came with a 5 x 5 Grand National floater axle setup. I've decided to go a more common route. 2) Bought a piece of 3" .187 DOM tubing -- to make my own axle tubes. 3) Had my crankgrinder finish the portion that goes in the side bells - to exactly 3.00 (was about .005 over). 4) Ordered some Big Ford bearing ends from Mark Williams (they make nice stuff) 5) Found a 31 spline 'Black Gold' DPI differential on eBay - the late model boys run these in big Q.C. rears . . . really a nice unit. 6) Will have Moser make me some custom length 31 spline axles. 7) Had Wilson welding make me up a set of their finned backup plates - for the big Ford pattern. Will run Buick 45 finned drums - to match the front. I've designed all my spring hangers, radius rod hangers, shock mounts - etc in CAD, then had things laser cut. I want my own designs that match the rest of the build -- though I've obviously been 'inspired' by Pete and Jakes and others. So - this thread will have all the details of the rear suspension setup . . . Here we go . . .
First Post: Making my Shock Mounts Have you ever looked to buy a nicely designed set of lower shock mounts that you can weld onto your axle housing? I looked to hell and gone - couldn't find a damn thing that didn't look like something a guy hacked out of 2x2 .120 tubing. I really didn't like the crude and unfinished look of everything that I could buy . . . so after looking at some of the things that Danny at Bruce's Rod Shop (great guys in Texas) made, gave me ideas to "roll my own". The rear axle tubes are going to be chromed, so I wanted to make everything "flow" and match the frame style (lots of gussets and holes) - and decided it was MUCH easier to finish everything as nice as possible BEFORE welding onto the tubes. It is almost impossible to finish the tubes and associated brackets once it's welded - you just can't get into all the places you'd like. Here yah go. 1) I created CAD drawings of the main piece -- laser cut from 3/8" steel and well as for the two side pieces that attach to the tube and provide support: 2) Then I used my air grinders to profile the edges of the brackets to round them off - can't stand sharp edges. I use a carbide rotary file for lots of this 'sculpting' type of work - followed by sandpaper rolls used to port heads. 3) Issue: Since the side profile of the main front piece has a radius/curve to it - I just tacked the two side pieces at the top-bottom . . . you can see their straight edge doesn't match the curve. Then I clamped the piece and used my Oxy/Acet torch to heat the side pieces up - when cherry red, I used a round piece of steel and a hammer to bend them to match the radius of the front piece. Now they match the radius as they should. Here is after the 'beating' 4) Then I just welded things inside/out and spent the next couple hours finishing the outsides, sanding things and gave them a polish. Now they're ready to weld on the axle tubes. I really like the way they came out --- took too much time, but what the hell . . . after all these years of NOT having a hotrod, what is a few more hours. One thing is for sure, I have a growing appreciation for how long it takes to do this kind of work . . . these took about 10 hours of my time (I'm slow I guess ). Everything takes about 2X the time I think it should . . . guess the optimism makes starting the work possible! I'll be welding the axle tubes in the coming week - then we'll use an 'Alignment Bar' setup to hold the bearing ends in place before I weld everything up. I wanted to weld the spring hangers, radius rod and shock hangers before the bearing ends. This post will be updated as the rest of the work continues . . . have quite a bit in front of me.
Nice work. I made my own but they are not as classy as yours. Keep up the good work. The chassis should be really cool when finished.
Completed my transverse spring hangers and ladder/link bar brackets this evening. The rear end will be hung with a Posies Model A 2" narrow rear spring, with reversed eyes. I originally bought some SoCal stuff -- but then decided to "roll my own" and redesigned them in CAD (had to have my lightening holes). By the time I modified the SoCal ones and setup my mill, I was able to design new ones in CAD - and at least I now have a pattern for the future. (It is a parametric design, so I can easily change any of the dimensions, hole sizes, etc). I used my air grinder to profile/round all the edges, sanded all surfaces very smooth (as the 3" slip-tube Q.C. housings will be chromed). As noted before - it is much easier to finish/polish all these brackets BEFORE they're welded to the 3" axle tubes. Anyway - no big deal, you've seen a bunch of them . . . but here goes: Note: I made a few 'spares' of these - have posted an add in the 'For Sale' section - have too much of this crap laying around! If you need a set - check them out . . .
Updates: I completed the spring hangers today - polished and prepped them for welding to the axle tubes. As I tell my wife, this is kind of like "metal sculpture" and art to me . . . fun to see how things can turn out if you put the time and attention to detail into them. One gets a sense of satisfaction from building these sorts of things from scratch -- at least I do Here yah go -- time to start setting up the rear end:
WOW...great work mate - this car is simply going to be a phenomenal ride when finished. Keep em coming brother... Rat
Have pondered how to align the spring hangers on the axle tubes before welding - to ensure that they are on 46 1/2" centers (using a 2" shortened Posies Model A spring). After thinking about it, decided to make a sort of 'jig' with 3/4" steel pins that slip into another tube -- with the correct centers and aligned square with the tube. I didn't weld them into the 2" tube - because I can drill the tube with different hole positions and use it for different rear end setups (why make it only work on 2" shortened Model A rear springs!). This makes it real easy to align the hangers, set them parallel to the ground (side to side) and keep everything in place during welding. I took some pictures - simple stuff, but should work out pretty well. There will be a long 1/2" bolt that goes through the hanger and the 2" tubing - to lock it down prior to welding. I'll probably make a tech article once I actually am ready to do the welding - that way one can see the rear Q.C. rear and not just a chunk of 3" DOM tubing in my vice Hope this idea helps somebody else . . .
Thanks guys . . . kind of a boring post, but it may help somebody who is pondering the same stuff I am.
Not boring at all this is why most are on here. Wanting to put a Q.C and do exactly what you are doing. Thanks
Outstanding...Thanks for sharing. Love to see the wheels in your brain turning into some seriously nice stuff. Made a lame day at work alot less lamer.
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